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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I like charcoal, but then I mostly tend to wear suits to more formal evening events when I'm in a white shirt. Silver or navy tie with white linen square and I am good to go. I do agree that a nice medium to dark grey can be more useful.
     
  2. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Finally was near a SuSu for the first time in 6 years. Gave them another try. Of course La Spalla was best fitting...they offer some very nice fabrics in that collection.

    I should be stopping by PJohnson later today to pick up navy seersucker MTM suit. I'll post pics for all the New Yorkers that may want to give them a try.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Interested to see pictures as they travel to Chicago as well.
     
  4. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Is this really a thing? I like wearing spread/cutaways more casually because sometimes they can stand up/look better without a jacket (doesn't "fly-away" like some of the less-spread collars), and are more formal that BDs (which i only wear for super casual shirts)
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  5. CanadaCal

    CanadaCal Senior member

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    I wear a full spread without tie or jacket all the time.

    Agreed, they flare away from your neck less, and are a nice alternative to BD. And they work well for smaller faces.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  6. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I only wear polos/BDs when I'm not wearing a jacket. Spread collars are strictly for jackets only, and mostly suits.

    Spread collar without a jacket is a very bridge and tunnel crowd look, especially if you wear it untucked with jeans.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
  7. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

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    I suppose it is a case of 'all cutaways are spreads but not all spreads are cutaways'.

    Personally, the cutaway (RL Keaton-esque) is not for me. I prefer a semi-spread!
     
  8. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I like navy in subtle patterns, but I do have a special preference for glen plaid so maybe that's why. I feel like for solid navy it's best to be lighter or in a weave with texture as well (or both). I don't have any charcoal, but I assume I'd feel similar, but maybe not. I might just not like solid charcoal that much.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Cutaway can look ok without a jacket when it's a very soft Italian collar and the shirt is a very textured fabric.
     
  10. mdancel

    mdancel Well-Known Member

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    I'm a diplomat so pretty CBD when meeting with other government officials but not as much when staying in the embassy. Are you asking because maybe I should start with black? I thought about that too but I have two pairs that are passable for now but will eventually get replaced. Or maybe not cap toe?
     
  11. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Talk to @Manton . He can help with diplomat/gov function dress codes.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Start with black cap toe oxfords.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
  13. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

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    This.
     
  14. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    First MTM project with PJohnson in NYC. This is there Roma line (middle line). Went with a navy seersucker, half lined, and patch pockets so I can wear as separate. Fabric is a bit stiff which you can see in the pictures. It will soften up with time. We intentionally left some room in the back given it is for warmer weather.

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
    12 people like this.
  15. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Cap toe or punched cap toe is safe for CBD, and if you're already covered for black, then brown or even dark tan is nice. What colour suits do you tend to wear? Try burgundy/oxblood, perhaps?

    For $350 US your options are many and varied. I like Carmina, just in range, or perhaps try one of the English makers in that price bracket, like Loake, Barker or Cheaney? At sale prices you'll get Church's, Alfred Sargent and possibly Crockett & Jones falling into that price too. Take a look at Herring and Pediwear: either will courier to you in Rabat in a couple of days, and both offer good customer service. Herring have a summer sale on, and I like this for you at Pediwear!

    Also, what's your AE size?
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. doodledoc

    doodledoc Senior member

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    I think the fit is very good. For your next suit, I would suggest a slightly lower button stance, but that's a personal preference. I think the overall length is spot on. Some would say it should be tad shorter so that it satisfies the "cup the bottom of the jacket with your hand" rule or "second knuckle on your thumb" test. What you have is the perfect length.
     
  17. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    I appreciate the comments. I agree on the length - It is where I like it for a suit. I may have gone a bit shorter given I plan to wear it as a separate as well.

    Hard to see in pics, but pants may need the most tweaking for #2. Although it is primarily because I lost 8 or so lbs between fittings, so not PJohnsons fault.
     
  18. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    Jacket looks good. Trousers seem to be hanging oddly, although that might be the fabric. I dig navy seersucker, although I have no use for it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Mr. Six, has the apocalyptic robot duck been retired?
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    ^@europrep definitely jealous of the navy seersucker. It looks amazing! Would be perfect for Boston in the summer or even during this transition period in the fall.
     
    1 person likes this.

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