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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    No particular reason other than that it looks up-tight in lack of a better description/word. It reminds me to much of older sailors for some reason. It's to flashy for my taste. Just haven't loved the look when I've seen it, can't really explain it better than that.

    EDIT: They're from Eqxuisite Trimmings, @Veremund
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2015
    2 people like this.
  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Doesn't compute if the jacket has a modern and desirable neapolitan cut.
     
  3. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    I also vote for brown horn buttons. The white plastic buttons may be trendy now, but they'll likely look dated in the near future.
     
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  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Actually he was traded (the Padres have a long and distinguished history of trading away players who then go on to be stars. See Anthony Rizzo for the latest installment) but it's a fair point.
     
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  5. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    @DonRaphael , what do you think of corozo? I like it a lot and it comes in many shades. The lighter you go with the buttons, the more it will say 'sportscoat' instead of suit.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Many (me included) associate brass/metal buttons on a blazer with a now passe country-club mindset, so the look is avoided. I think you generally tend to find more favor for this look in the US. I've never really encountered anyone outside of Ivy League reenactors who didn't find metal buttons ghastly.
     
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  7. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    To be fair, the Padres did get Andrew Cashner out of that trade, so it wasn't that lopsided. That said, I'm very happy to have Rizzo on my Cubbies.
     
  8. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Excellent choice
     
  9. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Cashner is a good pitcher but he's not a star. Rizzo is a star. Also, screw the Cubs.
     
  10. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    I really like corozo.

    I don't understand the argument 'in the real world blazers/jackets normally have flaps' or 'people won't notice in real life'

    Isn't the point of SF to go to a higher standard? using the above logic - the real world has mostly terrible fitting suits, but we wouldn't recommend wearing those either, right? (or for that matter, wearing square toed loafers, which are so popular)

    If he's asking how to differentiate a suit jacket from a SC, pockets are one of the only ways (if you arent changing buttons, which is the original topic).
     
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  11. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Actually I like those a lot. I wonder how they'd look with a jacket that is more navy than blue, which that one seems to be. Where can they be purchased?

    If I am going down the white buttons route, I might try to find some tasteful ivory mother of pearl buttons if I don't like the current ones. I will try to find some nice brown horn buttons also and compare with those corozo buttons and decide.

    EDIT: Jacket just shipped out. Me excited.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2015
  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @EliodA, the concept of a BlazerSuit is to create something that works as a blazer but also as a suit (albeit not a UCBD one), so I'm not sure I fully agree.

    Of course the BlazerSuit exists in part because some of some weird distaste for metal buttons on blazers (metal buttons would look wrong on a suit IMO).


    I mostly agree, though one can make an informed choice here considering that most people here (hopefully) dress for the real world and not SF. Some choices are worse than others.
     
  13. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    He is saying pockets are not good differentiators (EE background :D ) and SF have an irrational hatred for flaps on odd jackets. Flaps on odd jackets shouldn't be grouped with square toe loafers and horrible fitting suits
     
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  14. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    So many misconceptions in one post.
     
  15. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Yes, I know why it exists and that is why I think it's a strange concept: you want to avoid the orphaned suit jacket because you don't want to give the impression that you can't afford a separate blazer. But then you buy a blazer suit, wearing matching trousers with your blazer so you give the impression that you can't afford a separate navy suit.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2015
  16. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    The problem is, being a navy worsted odd jacket, there aren't many factors to differentiate.
     
  17. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Worsted serge is the most traditional blazer fabric. So it really depends on the weave on that particular jacket.
     
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  18. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I actually agree that it's a strange concept and is one I've never really bought into myself, though I sort of see the reasoning. The irony is that a navy suit with patch pockets is tough to find OTR and especially inexpensively, and if you're at the point where you are commissioning things, being able to afford a navy suit or blazer isn't an issue (maybe affording one made to certain specifications is an issue, e.g. Huntsman vs. a Hong Kong tailor). So I guess I looked at it more as a knowledge thing versus being able to afford something (i.e. you don't want people to think you don't know that a plain navy suit jacket shouldn't double as a blazer). Outside ultraconservative settings, I don't know that patch pockets on a suit would be seen as a knowledge mistake so much as quirky or dandified, an image those on here may not mind.

    I think it's most useful if you have limited closet space (and thus can get some use out of hanging a pair of navy pants with a navy odd jacket to make it a bit more versatile). So I guess we agree it's an odd concept, but have different reasoning.
     
  19. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I agree for the most part. I prefer patch pockets to a significant extent and if I am having something made, of course I am going to go with my preference, but I don't hate flapped pockets. I think that patch is at least slightly preferable, but not that flapped is wrong. I do think that when you're dealing with a solid navy fabric, however, that patch pockets are more useful to differentiate it from a suit jacket than would be the case with tweed. It's not like someone is going to see you wearing some tweed gun check with flapped pockets and think it is an orphan (even on SF).
     
  20. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    3 people like this.

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