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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Thanks, guys.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  2. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    Can tailors put functional buttonholes on a sleeve with relative ease? I'm thinking that way, you could get it shortened from the end and still have your buttonholes.
     
  3. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I'm pretty sure that all of SS's jackets come with functional sleeve buttons. Hence my question.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Have you read Ac's question?
     
  5. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    I'm having the sleeves of a more casual cotton blazer shortened from the top and I believe my tailor said something about it necessitating the armholes coming up and being narrowed slightly, which makes sense given that sleeves are tapered. I supposed if there is extra fabric in the sleeve this may not be the case, but then you'd have to let some fabric out the whole way down I'd also assume. Shrug. I'm bad with 3D things.

    I'll try to remember to ask him for more details when I go back to pick it up.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2015
    2 people like this.
  6. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    I wasn't asking in relation to Ac's question about SuSu necessarily, just in general.
     
  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Theoretically, you can reweave the old buttonhole and make a new one. I imagine it depends on how much extra fabric there is left to reweave the buttonhole. Also, the cost might be more than the coat is worth.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    A word on reweaving. I've had a pinhole repaired by a reputable reweaver. It cost 98 dollars... for a pinhole... The job was excellently done but you can tell that it has been repaired. I have to imagine that something as large as a button hole would be considerably more expensive, take considerable amounts of time, and be considerably noticeable.
     
  9. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    That's too many considerables for me. I'm out.
     
    3 people like this.
  10. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    I have had a Hudson and a Havana shortened from the shoulder. Havana was a linen silk blend. Hudson is a textured wool, almost a rough birdseye. not sure that matters other than to point out that neither were a complex check pattern which is where the real problem come from in matching. I took off about 1.5 inches or so, under 2 for sure. Hudson turned out well, sleeve pitch and volume work well. I had it done by my regular tailor and he reattached with Spalla camicia no problem. Was not cheap though, I did it b/c I loved the jacket. Havana was done subsequently, at SuSu. less successful in that the sleeve is now a little tight. I was willing to take a chance and see b/c it was an inexpensive seasonal jacket.

    The tailor at SuSu talked me through it all. given their affinity for working cuffs, this is clearly an alteration they have gotten a lot of experience with. $75 charged at SuSu, my other tailor was more like $150

    to summarize, it's doable but success depends on the style /sleeve volume and taper and possibly skill of the tailor. I would do it again with a jacket that had a generour enough sleeve volume and only for a jacket/suit i really loved.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    Another note, SuSu seems unwilling to do shoulder work on La Spalla and other models with spalla camicia, if I recall. As noted above, other (very skilled) tailors can and will do it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    Seeking GNA.

    I have ~6 suits and ~4-5 SCs I'd like to sell/get rid of for whatever I can get for them. Suits are all in good to great shape. All Tom James MTM, but I am effectively a 44L (yes I was one of those suckers years ago, go ahead and laugh). Is there any value there and if so, who can I get to sell it for me. I want to just box it up and send it to someone and get a check back in 6-8 weeks and am happy to pay the commission. I also have 3 pairs of Allen Edmonds in great shape (one pair has a brand new sole) to sell as well, again, I don't have time or desire to do the selling myself.

    Thanks,

    WTL
     
  13. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Yeah. If you don't mind losing some money to a consignment fee, he's your guy.
     
  15. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    What's the % fee? Also, is there any way to say 'must be greater than $xxx price'?
     
  16. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think it's 40% and then he covers all fees and costs and such.
     
  17. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Wow, a lot more than I thought it would be.
     
  18. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I could be very, very wrong.
     
  19. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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  20. justridiculous

    justridiculous Senior member

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    What size are the AEs?
     

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