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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    Thanks—I just hope I can contribute something of value, since SF has been an invaluable resource to me in my slow transformation from slob to whatever I'm gonna end up becoming.

    Also, my feeling is that if you can articulate what you don't like about it/what you want in your shirt collar, he will hopefully be able to satisfy you.
     
  2. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Oh, by the way, here is one more bespoke thread:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/404781/ongoing-bespoke-projects

    It doesn't get as much traffic but it's still cool. And it's like reading a picture book, so the 350 pages or so fly right by.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2015
  3. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    That one was easy to read through and subscribe, so I already did! I'll probably post some LL pics when I see him (probably later in the fall—gotta have my shirts first so the jacket can fit right, right? [​IMG])
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    @semperexcelsius

    Good to have you posting and sharing.

    My only advice would be to have at least somewhat of a rough idea of your final product. My personal experience has been very dissatisfying when it comes to custom/MTM clothing. I went in with an open mind and let the "expert" make decisions. End result was a poor product. However, I was not dealing with the ultra exclusive. May your experiences please and satisfy you.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2015
  5. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    I think part of the good thing about having to wait until the fall to actually see these guys (well, August for my shoes) is that I can ruminate a bit on what I'm really after in order to be able to articulate it best. Like, it's given me time to save pictures as I come across them of nice shirt collars, suit lapels, toe shapes, etc. that I like.

    However, I also think it's important to trust your tailor to the degree that you at least allow them to do their house cut—I'm not going to go trying to get LL to do a spalla camicia or whatever. If I want that, I'll go to Rubi or elsewhere. However, I think I should be able to request certain details, like single forward pleats, spread collar, round but slender toe, etc. and work with the craftsman to get it to turn out pretty well.
     
  6. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    @TM79 oh and by the way, do you think it'd be helpful to post in the unfunded liabilities thread for recommendations for my first LL suit? I figured the man himself could offer me advice when I see him, but it might be good to get some other opinions.
     
  7. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    Still don't get it [​IMG]
     
  9. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    Does Kabbaz design for pro athletes? Seems like the group that wouldnt discuss the finances of his services. Looking at images of the products he has chosen to display on his website look like things I would see on ESPN
     
  10. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    I think he had some rant about celebrity clients not paying their bills and said that most of his clients are "famous" but in the fields of finance, law, general business, etc.

    Not sure pro athletes would even hear about him—seems like most of the gaudy things they dress in are designer.
     
  11. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    I think Elio's point is that you could switch those pics out for Jos. A. Bank pics of shirts and no one could tell the difference. The ties do not help matters. This may or may not be an indicator of the actual quality and taste of the final product.

    Compare to Inglese or the pics of UrbanComposition's MTM shirts, and it's no contest which look more comfortable and elegant.
     
    4 people like this.
  12. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    Ah, I got it. Yeah, those ties are pretty dreadful, and I'd definitely avoid some of those fabrics. Then again, he'll cut you a shirt in whatever fabric you want, and then it's down to fit. We shall see.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2015
  13. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    Assuming the same color, what is more versatile: a suede or a calf loafer?
     
  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Do you already have a rough idea of what you want? I think if you go in as a total blank slate, so to speak, you won't get too far.

    But if you can rule out several things you don't want and provide ideas of fabric, fabric weights, and/or patterns you may want you could get some useful feedback.
     
  15. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    Yeah, I want a navy worsted that I can wear for as much of the year as possible in NY/the northeast (I know some don't agree with 9 mo fabrics or whatever but as I'm starting out, I need versatility), so whatever weight that puts me at.

    Also, I'd prefer it to be a quality fabric (soft to the touch, etc), but first and foremost it has to be pretty durable—it'll be a work suit.
     
  16. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    This is my whole point. Semperexcelsius seems to be willing to put all his sartorial faith in the hands of a man whose esthetic judgment is highly questionable
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    I think that's enough info to start off with where you could get some mill and book recommendations.
     
  18. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    Just because he doesn't have good taste in shirt/tie combos doesn't mean he can't make a killer shirt. Like I said, we'll have to see. If you like, I can mention in my post about the topic if you'd like to further that debate when the time comes.


    Ok thanks; I'll put a post up.
     
  19. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Id argue if someone like UC wore josabank and told everyone it was inglese nobody would bat an eye. Makority of CM only has a delusion of anti-name
     
  20. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I forget which one I had exactly, something very similar to one of those, but when I wore it it made my feet hurt so bad I literally cried. Could have been my foot was a bad match for that last, or a sizing issue, but the sole was like walking on a wood plank on the pair I had. Total misery.
     

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