Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[WeakMonday]

It's too bad you didn't like your visit to Naples @monkeyface. I spent a few days there and found it to be a great city with a lot of character, great food and extremely skilled tailors. That's just life I guess... Ymmv

 

[kulata]



Either way, going to Naples for a couple of days just to get a suit doesn't make sense. Not now, not a year from now, not ever. No matter how much money you have, you'll still be wasting valuable time just to get a suit. As much as people hate traveling tailors, they do make sense from a convenience standpoint. Although most convenient would be to just get a suit from a local tailor.

Like Thom Sweeney or Steed. Styleforum's craze for all things Napoli can be bothersome.

 

[Monkeyface]

It's too bad you didn't like your visit to Naples @monkeyface. I spent a few days there and found it to be a great city with a lot of character, great food and extremely skilled tailors. That's just life I guess... Ymmv

Yeah, it's not my favourite Italian city, that's for sure. Naples definitely doesn't make my list of top 50 weekend trip destinations, perhaps even top 100. It says a lot that non of my Italian friends would ever recommend Naples if you want a fun weekend trip.

 

[EliodA]



Yeah, it's not my favourite Italian city, that's for sure. Naples definitely doesn't make my list of top 50 weekend trip destinations, perhaps even top 100.

Apart from the tailoring, Naples boasts the best coffee in the world, the best pizza and mozzarella obviously. Superb pastry like sfogliatelle or delicious roadside snacks like carciofi alla brace. Nearby Sorrento and the Amalfi coast are the most beautiful scenery you'll encounter anywhere. And if you're into history, there's Pompeii and the city itself is chock-full of churches full of masterpieces.
And then there's the mess and the pickpockets and petty thieves. But just keep your wits about, leave your Rolex in the hotel room safe and enjoy Napoli.

You don't go to Naples for a bespoke suit because it's convenient. Ordering online from Suit Supply is convenient, like ordering your pizza from Pizza Hut.

 

[Slh]

Napoli is a beautiful city with a lot of potential but full of problems...
I would advice to visit Sicily and Palermo in particular, similar to Naples in some way. Chaotic and confusing, but fascinating.
Better to visit during summer, even though the weather is almost unbereable ( 30-35°C and very humid). If you like neapolitan tailoring, sicilian tailoring has a very similar concept: soft tailoring, soft shoulder and lightweight fabrics. Also way cheaper than Napoli, 700-800€ for a jacket, 1000-1200€ for a suit. Obviously full canvassed and with quality fabrics.

 

[WeakMonday]

Sicily is definitely the next sartorial frontier... If I can't make it this summer I'll seriously try to next

 

[lukejackson]

How does one go about commissioning something in Sicily, for example? It seems difficult if you don't speak Italian without a translator. I will likely be in Italy towards the end of the year, with free accommodation in Rome..Was thinking the money I save in that leg could be put towards a new suit. But perhaps on a limited budget it would be just as fruitful to look for RTW on a discount, especially since a lot of stuff usually fits me well without alterations. For me though, I struggle to find suits with trousers where I actually like the cut and details. E.g. I hate flat fronts, most RTW stuff doesn't have a high enough rise for me etc.

 

[mimo]

Is this a ridiculous purchase? Thoughts on versatility or proper context? Or would they stick out too much to be anything but a novelty?

What's wrong with sticking out?

If you're in a very conservative business environment, then I'm sure you wouldn't be considering this. Otherwise, get them because you love them. The colour is inherently subtle, the contrast between the textures doesn't leap out at first glance. I think you can wear them just like you would, say, a country derby instead of a brogued oxford: less formal, but still very smart. Go on, get them because you love them and wear them to death.

 

[WeakMonday]

Pictures of what you want definitely help. Of course they must be realistic pictures for your body type. And then just sprinkle in some Italian phrases like "spalla piu larghe" for wider shoulders (this I would personally recommend) and "spalla morbida" for soft shoulder and "spalla rotunda" round shoulder. Probably would need to know a few words to figure out a schedule for fittings. Additionally from what I've read about the Sicilian tailors they like making their pants low rise and slim... so might need to learn Italian to say you want a high rise and pleats. Sleeveheads guide to Sicilian Tailoring seems like a pretty good reference (I bought and read it myself). May not be worth the hassle for you if you already like the fit of rtw suits.

 

[Monkeyface]

People romanticise Naples and the whole idea of getting a bespoke suit there way too much.

 

[WeakMonday]

Others romanticize going to Savile Row, Florence, etc... what's your point?

 

[Claghorn]

Not to the extent that Naples is romanticized though.

If I recall, your trip worked out very well for you (though I don't know how you managed to spend time with gianni cerruti without kicking him in the shin for dressing like a clown and stealing the money of a number of SF members...might have been before your time).

But it isn't representative of a lot of people's first bespoke experience.

---

Vietnam has better coffee than Naples.

 

[The Noodles]

Going to pick up my suits now. Wish me luck.

 

[Claghorn]

Yeah. He was really helpful to WM, though, I think (sorry if I'm confusing you with someone else, WM).

Gianni the tie dude who sold a bunch of people modern "vintage inspired" silks and said they were vintage and upon leaving SF failed to deliver ties to a number of people who had already paid (generally months previously, before the scandal broke).

Edit
Way to ninja edit Noodles so I sound like a crazy person responding to a question no one asked.

 

[gdl203]



People romanticise Naples and the whole idea of getting a bespoke suit there way too much.

I think that people who purchase "Neapolitan" suits with italian sounding names, designed by a pre-IPO Dutch corporation and made in China, probably contribute more to the romanticized image of Neapolitan tailoring than those who decide they're going to give their business to actual tailors in Naples to keep that craft alive.