1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. upr_crust

    upr_crust Senior member

    Messages:
    5,138
    Joined:
    May 10, 2007
    Location:
    NYC, NY
    





    My gravitas is just as good as anyone else's, Clags, silly or not. :fence:

    I will tell you my experience of buying PS and PC.

    First off, yes, my little Noodle, Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole can be butt expensive - however, the garments from them which I've bought are very well-constructed of very good fabrics. I also have had the luck to hit PS/PC during sales, and have gotten some things for less than butt expensive.

    As for fit, I am unsure if the various fits at PS/PC are going to work for you, but, that should only give you the incentive to try them. The worst thing that could happen is that the suits won't fit you (or conversely, the worst thing that could happen is that they fit you so well, you lose control of your fiscal probity).

    I don't have narrow shoulders or chest (I normally quote Bette Midler when discussing ma opulente poitrine - "I'm living proof that big tits mean big bucks"), so I am not expert at the "pear-shaped dilemma".

    PS has two basic models - Stuart, which is a fuller cut, and Paul, which is a slimmer cut. The model for Phineas Cole is essentially a Paul, with a somewhat shorter jacket, and slimmer trousers. When I first started buying Phineas Cole, on sale, my salesman put me into a 44R, then had the jacket taken in, so that the trousers would fit through the thighs. Since starting to shop at PS, I've lost weight, and can now fit into a 42R (or 42S, depending - I'm 5'9", and short waisted, so short models of suits at PS and elsewhere (most notably New & Lingwood in London) can fit me fine. PS or PC suits normally come with brace buttons, and no belt loops, though you can have belt loops added at the time of purchase.

    Phineas Cole suits often come unlined (winter or summer), and the shoulders of all of PS/PC jackets are not heavily padded. PS Paul models, and especially Phineas Cole, the jackets have a great shape to them - or at least for me.

    Note also that both PS and PC suits are made in relatively small quantities - one of the ways that the store can encourage buyers to buy at full retail is that they'll only have one or two of a particular model/fabric in a particular size.

    Hope that helps you decide if you want to venture into the new store in DC.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2015
    5 people like this.
  2. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,345
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2012
    And that I can cosign 100% (though I'm not spotting a balance issue, for whatever that's worth). But I believe that could work with the right dark gray trousers (too dark and shoes get troublesome), or with any of the myriad trouser options besides gray wool – wools in tans or loden greens, or with lots of different moleskins and cords. Or denim, if you really want.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2015
  3. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    3,964
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    I agree that GNA about body reshaping is appropriate for this thread, as long as it doesn't get out of hand.

    @jaywhyy is absolutely right about the health benefits, especially (funnily enough) for older people - exactly the group which tends not to do resistance training. This is why I give the topic a "pass" for the Noodles thread. It's just good-natured, all-round good advice, as long as it has been solicited. (SVB never asked for advice and so the lengthy discussions about his body shape went way too far.)
     
    3 people like this.
  4. colco

    colco Senior member

    Messages:
    585
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2015
    Location:
    Hudson County NJ
    On the Paul Stuart topic, I was in the Madison Avenue store last week and was amazed by two things: the quality and the quantity of the socks on offer. I could have easily spent $500 ON SOCKS and have been lusting after a bunch of other pairs. The second, the deep discounting on quality English made footwear. Many of the lasts were too narrow and long for both my taste and my hobbit like feet but some really gorgeous shoes for great prices.

    On the exercise topic: Fit people generally are healthier, live longer and look better in clothes. However, in a thread and on a forum dedicated to tailored clothing, for those that are less than blessed with broad shoulders and or narrow waists (and who prefer other forms of physical activity than resistance training), why not just buy strong shouldered (extended, padded or otherwise) suits that are meant to flatter your body types? Soft natural shouldered jackets do not always flatter people who's shoulders are naturally soft.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

    Messages:
    3,379
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    @upr_crust
    Thx for dropping by and sharing your experience. I shall PM you if I find myself needing additional advice on Paul Stuart. So please be on stand by, sir.

    @Coxsackie
    @jaywhyy
    How could this workout discussion be inappropriate for this thread? I agree with you gentlemen. Listen, I am the one who asked for workout tips after I realized that I needed some shoulders. We have covered economics, psychology, marriage, wars, plumbing, purse, jumpsuits, etc.

    I think this thread is a good place to discuss, really, anything if there are enough interest. People here are generally good natured with the exception of the immature kid writing this. Tonight's exercise: shoulder shrugs with dumbbells and upside down pushups.

    @colco
    Yes, it is true that if one desires strong looking shoulders one should buy a suit like that. But what if you have already shelled out $2k on four suits? It was easier for me to do some stupid buttocks exercise and address the "puddle" in my trousers issue and have my wife slap my ass as a way of showing her approval. Why not try to build some shoulders to have a body that would look nice in a Neapolitan suit? It is really worth the effort.

    If the advice is given to someone who strictly wants to resolve issues like this via new purchases or alterations, then yes exercise advice would be inappropriate.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  6. colco

    colco Senior member

    Messages:
    585
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2015
    Location:
    Hudson County NJ
    @jcmeyer , I am on the hunt for a herringbone tweedy type jacket for this autumn. I've more or less settled on a deep charcoal, mostly because of the contrast needed with flannel trousers. Otherwise, what can you wear a lighter grey tweed jacket regularly other than denim? There is one on ebay from Polo with lighter than usual brown horn buttons that look great in contrast to the dark cloth.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2015
  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

    Messages:
    3,379
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    :foo:
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  8. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Light grey herringbone can look great, if you're not afraid of northern lights.
    I think the problem with @jcmeyer 's jacket is that the colour is neither here nor there. It should either be lighter, or darker. Personally, I'd prefer lighter.
     
  9. colco

    colco Senior member

    Messages:
    585
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2015
    Location:
    Hudson County NJ
    just my observations and musings sir
     
  10. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

    Messages:
    632
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2013
    Location:
    Toronto
    You don't see that jacket pairing with light grey pants? I ask because I have a jacket of very similar color. I wear it with tan pants, or navy (shrug) but I least picture it pairing OK with light grey and very well with winter white flannel. I'd like to go from a 38 to at least a 36 before I invest any cash in to pants.
     
  11. colco

    colco Senior member

    Messages:
    585
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2015
    Location:
    Hudson County NJ
    certainly. my preference is based soley on the ease of pairing with lighter grey trousers.
     
  12. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Sure, light grey trousers will work with that jacket but they'd have to be significantly lighter than in @jcmeyer 's pics.
    JC, having had a second look at your pics, I don't think it fits all that well. Your shoulders seem to be more sloped than the jacket shoulders can accommodate, so there's a kink in the shoulderline. The front balance is too short and the button point is too high.
    Length is perfect, IMO.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    3,964
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    @EliodA , would you mind elucidating the term "front balance"? One of many tailoring terms which bamboozles this poor #menswear simpleton.
     
  14. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

    Messages:
    791
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2013
    
    Front of jacket too short relative to back. Can cause the dreaded scissoring of quarters
     
  15. circumspice

    circumspice Senior member

    Messages:
    335
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2011
    @Noodles - some of your Formosa pants don't seem to hang cleanly around the thigh. I am not sure what causes that. Perhaps if that could be cleaned up, it might slim the profile.

    @colco - grey jackets have a degree of difficulty to them that I am not sure you need to bite off on, especially when you talk about wearing them with grey pants (thus truly setting the game to Hard). I think for fall/winter grey jackets are easier as jeans / cords / moleskin / flannel and the colors of those seasons allow a lot of options to dial up and down formality.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,880
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    blue herringbone, even green imo. Charcoal isn't all that useful

    [​IMG]

    Seems to fit u nicely. How often would u wear it tho? Hard to find trews that would work with it. That fit ^^^ doesn't really work, for instance. Not enough contrast imo

    Many are the @menswear enthusiasts who have been lured by the Siren song of the grey odd jacket - the one that hangs forlorn and unworn at the back of the closet.
     
  17. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Tend to agree with you, but IMO herringbone is an exception. Quite versatile: you can wear it with any shade of grey that offers some contrast. Plus: brown, navy, cream/oatmeal, (olive) green, burgundy...
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,880
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    imo even a HB jacket in jc's shade of grey isn't going to be all that useful. It would work with none of his grey trews (which would be most of his trew wardrobe if he's anything like me). And that leaves only those trews he has in those other shades, and then only ones which are either very light or very dark in those shades (to provide contrast) and which share the relative formality that would go with a 2 button 2 flap + besom pocket jacket. Eliminate the darker trews if u don't go for Northern lights, and that leaves only formally cut light blue, light tan, light green, light pink and oatmeal trews in a medium weight. (by the looks of it)
    Even if the jacket was cut less formally - say 3/2 + patches + swelled seam edges - I think it would still be a challenge.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2015
  19. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    10,830
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Speaking of light grey, I was thinking about a jacket in this, from Moonbeam

    [​IMG]
     
  20. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    I understand that, being Australian, the concept of 'Northern Lights' is completely anathema to you. [​IMG]
    My remarks were more generic and in relation to a few posts above about a lighter shade herringbone. I agree with you on JC's jacket.

    I like it, but Pliny says no [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by