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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. WhereNext

    WhereNext Senior member

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    This holds for me as well: I like my ties right around 53 inches, so that limits me (as far as I know) to MTM or bespoke. Right now, I'm relying on Hober, but there are a few shantungs (probably 9 or 10 month appropriate here in Cape Town) and cashmeres (the other few months) that I will probably wind up trying from Exquisite Trimmings. I can wear my longer ties when I go 3-piece, but that means they get worn less as they're excluded from a 2-piece suit or sportcoat as they're too long.
     
  2. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Check eBay! Lots of short ties on there, though probably not a ton at 53" (Clags just found one and shot me a PM about it last weekend) - except for knits which always seem to be made shorter. But there are a fair amount < 57, and I find a lot of old brooks brothers there so maybe they still make them new? Or maybe I'm buying a bunch of JRs ties. Shrug.
     
  3. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Sorry, that was in response to Claghorns' post about a minimum tie rotations. Of course, I was exaggerating a bit. You'll need a burgundy knit too. [​IMG]
    Seriously, every now and then, I consider wearing knits only, perhaps with a few solid wool/cashmere ones. Try to find pics of @NOBD , he does that minimalistic style very, very well.
    Black ties work well enough with suits, I'd say. Except perhaps with charcoal worsted.


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    2 people like this.
  4. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    24 was my goal for a long time, and I think it's easy to make that number work. That said, I've revised my own goal up to 30 (currently at 24 in-rotation and still have some gaps I want to fill).


    1--brown garza fina grenadine
    2--brown garza grossa grenadine
    3--brown cashmere solid
    4--brown wool shepherd's check
    5--brown cashmere PoW check
    6--brown ancient madder neat
    7--brown silk neat
    8--green ancient madder neat
    9--green garza fina grenadine
    10--green silk neat
    11--green twill silk w/brown stripes
    12--rust garza fina grenadine
    13--rust wool neat
    14--burgundy garza grossa grenadine
    15--burgundy silk w/cream stripes
    16--burgundy/brick red wool
    17--burgundy silk neat
    18--black knit
    19--blue ancient madder neat
    20--navy garza fina grenadine
    21--navy silk neat (summer weight)
    22--gray wool solid
    23--silver/gray garza fina grenadine
    24--gray silk neat
     
    2 people like this.
  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  6. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Just for purposes of discussion, what role does the solid grenadine play in a wardrobe? What would be lacking without them?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  7. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    That's more browns than I was expecting... in fact, I don't think I've ever owned a brown tie (but I'm looking to in the near future). What color suits do they work best with?
     
  8. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    That's more browns than I was expecting... in fact, I don't think I've ever owned a brown tie (but I'm looking to in the near future). What color suits do they work best with?

    The brown neat is one of the most versatile ties in the history of ties ...

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  9. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    Probably mostly texture—if you look at @heldentenor 's list without the grenadines, you still have a good amount of pattern but not nearly as much texture. I think it's probably good to have one or the other in almost all of your ties.
     
  10. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Pics are worth many words.

    Once staples are arrived at, by which I mean ties that are maximally useful say a midnight knit or a navy or brown grenadine, a tasteful navy/light single stripe repp etc., it's nice and useful to think about seasonal ties.

    I've tried to increase the summer tie count after having spent a while completing a F/W wool tie collection. So, focusing on brighter and or slightly brasher (not loud) ties. I've got 2-3 more on my list for this season, but my last four:

    [​IMG]

    Cotton Glen Plaids where the overchecks and material provide the summery feel: green and pink respectively

    Green shantung with bolder stripes from Shaya at ET.

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    And my favorite of this last batch, from Drake's (only available from their store now)

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    And for goodness sakes, you want a summer staple, a navy tussah silk, from Drake's for $43?

    http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/me...fsb=1&ef_id=VGeB4QAABcNKJ28L:20150709180625:s
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2015
  12. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    I only see one twill mentioned in that list, and it's striped. Even so, I could see some room for like one or two purely solid/untextured ties in that rotation, as long as they were twill or a similar material (which does have a bit of a texture)—I can't see any room for glossily untextured solid ties (satin, etc.) in my wardrobe, though.
     
  13. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    I have a lot of ties. I like ties. gdl expressed a view on this that accords with my own: a lot of times I don't know whether I'll wear a tie a lot before I get it, so if I think I'll wear it, I get it. If it turns out that I don't wear it much, I move it along.

    One thing that I've found about "staple" ties, particularly solids, is that they're good to have but not frequently worn. In retrospect I think I might have gotten a few because I thought that I "should" have them, rather than because I thought that I would wear them. Not a big deal, but something to consider. Of course, it is nice to have a solid set of solids, just in case.
     
    3 people like this.
  14. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Last edited: Jul 9, 2015
  15. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Whoa. On it. Do you know how wide or long it is by chance from owning other Drakes? The sizing on the site seems to be for the jacket shown in the pics, not the tie.

    Also thinking about picking this one up:http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/me...m-11014179.aspx?storeid=9730&ffref=chk_bp_pic

    Edit: NM, I looked it up on the Drakes site like a smartypants.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2015
  16. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I, uh, wear brown ties pretty regularly.


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    ------
    Carson Street sells a lot of narrow (2.75 inch) ties, including some narrow Drakes. Still, at that price, it's worth the gamble.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2015
    3 people like this.
  17. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Brown ties are the shiz. Also, I wish I hadn't expanded that spoiler. Took me FOREVERZ to scroll past it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Done and done. We'll see!
     
  19. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I did say I wore them regularly.

    I think I avoided any repeats in there, though it's missing a few.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Noodles' Minimalist Tie Collection
    (Wears Ties 6 Times per Week)


    01. Sam Hober Bitter Chocolate Grenadine Fina Silk Tie #6
    02. Sam Hober Charcoal Gray/Silver Grenadine Fina Silk Tie #21
    03. Sam Hober Burgundy Grenadine Fina Silk Tie #3
    04. Sam Hober Forest Green Grenadine Fina Silk Tie #16
    05. Sam Hober Dark Red & White on Midnight Blue Grenadine Fina Stripe Silk Tie #4
    06. Sam Hober Midnight Blue Grenadine Fina Silk Tie #8
    07. Vanda Navy Pindot Grenadine
    08. Vanda Deep Red-Blue Flowers
    09. Vanda Dark Navy Houndstooth
    10. Vanda Burgundy Neat
    11. ConradWu Regimental Stripe Shantung Grenadine
    12. ConradWu Olive Rosette Print in 50 oz Royal Twill
    13. Drake's Burgundy Neat (ET)
    14. Drake's PoW (ET)
    15. Drake's Navy Pindot Grenadine (ET)
    16. Tom Ford Skyblue Pindot Grenadine
    17. Tom Ford Black/White Shepherd's Check
    18. Brioni Royal Blue
    19. Bigi Forest Green Pindot

    Someone drop me some tie recommendation. There are none out there that are appealing to me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2015
    1 person likes this.

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