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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    So if handmade has a larger variance than machine made, and handmade is more likely to be sloppy than machine made, why do we prefer handmade again?
     
  2. Patrick R

    Patrick R Senior member

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    I prefer handmade when the hands making it are also the hands measuring, cutting, and fitting.
     
  3. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Well, a little bit of variance is no problem. 3cm on shoulders, though...
    Anyway (generalising, of course): handmade wears more comfortable, looks better (detailing), appreciation of artisanship etc. etc.
    Most important: bragging rights with your SF buddies.
     
  4. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Lots of assumptions in that argument.
     
  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Not really. I'm basing this purely on facts about Formosa handmade stuff.
     
  6. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Off one suit? I haven't seen variation/sloppiness on multiple suits to state it as a fact like you did though...
     
  7. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    LOL. So based on one Formosa suit, you assume that all handmade is more sloppy?
     
  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Not based on one suit. Handmade has a higher chance of being sloppy. With sloppy I mean the stitching, not the actual fit of the garment. The fit of the garment falls on the higher variance of handmade stuff, which everyone agreed on.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
  9. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Not sure I follow you with that. Hand-stitched is way cleaner and tighter than machine-stitched.
     
  10. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Not all hand stitching is equal. Good hand stitching is better than machine (for certain areas only, as machine is better for some parts), but not all hand stitching is good. Machine stitching is nearly always of equal quality, unless your machine is wonky I suppose.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
  11. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    What is your measure of quality? From my experience, machine-stitching has always been more unsightly versus hand-stitching. Might not make a durability difference in tailoring, but if we're talking leather products like shoes, bags, or jackets, it's a huge difference.

    I'd love to see any machine-stitched shoe have 60 spi like you'll see on the outsoles of some Japanese bespoke, or replicate the seams you'll see on a M.A.+ jacket..or have the cleanliness you'll see on Formosa, L&L, Huntsman bespoke (hell even Tom Ford).
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    We're talking about suits here, not leather goods. Some seams are better by machine, and even bespoke tailors will usually use machines for certain things. The problem with hand stitching is that it can be done quite badly. Lots of Jeffreyd's posts for example show bad hand stitching from Savile Row houses.

    Good hand stitching > machine
    Bad hand stitching < machine
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  13. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    But what about hand stitched plus exercises?
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
  14. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    So... There is variance among hand stitching, but not among machines? Why? Aren't machines operated by humans as well?

    (Not to mention the things/Types of stitches that machines cannot do)

    I do look forward to you asking your suit maker and pant maker for machine stitches rather than by hand, please let us know how they react.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    The last 24 hours of this thread.....

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  16. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    2 people like this.
  17. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  18. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    Measuring a suit isn't hard. If you were getting a difference of .1 inches, it might be your technique. That's clearly not the case here.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    It's harder to mess up machine stitching. By definition, the machine will make stitches that are equally distant, equally tight, etc.

    If you rush hand stitching it's quite easy to do it sloppily with much more variability. Anyways, bring your Formosa to a good bespoke tailor and have him inspect the hand stitching. See what he says.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, can I try to change the subject?

    Was talking briefly with Mr. Six about Cappelli's which I think I shall try, given the favorable exchange rate and given that my other non-Drake's preferred source (Vanda) has alas raised prices slightly. Given the current exchange rates, it seems a bit cheaper to go with Cappelli for now.

    Can I get opinions about ordering on line from them? I see a few styles I like on-line, would opt for a 3 fold to start with, 8.5 cm width. Mostly, I want a knot that isn't too big. Mr. Six also suggests that I can ask about certain patterns that I like but don't see.

    Shall I send a pic of my ideal knot, specs and proceed from there? I know Noodle's disliked his so no need to rehash that again. But some of you might have ordered from them on-line (internet) rather than in store. Please advise.

    PS, I've posted some pics of those I like in the Grad Lounge.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/428478/the-grad-lounge/1830#post_7982210

    Some links from Mr. Six there on a few block stripes.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015

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