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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Variety for the sake of variety is pointless, though. I can't think of any SB odd jacket with peak lapels that would not look better with notch lapels. Peak suggests formality. Odd jacket suggests casual. I have one SB peak lapel odd jacket and on the rare occasion I wear it I regret not having had it made with notch lapels. DB is obviously a different animal, and for someone who loves blue jackets, you could easily get a few DB for the sake of variety and still have them work well.
     
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just make zero associations with flap or jetted. I know that jetted is probably more formal (just having seen them on tuxes more often than flaps. Though I never really pay attention to tuxes, so I could be imagining this). If jetted is more formal, than being pro-peak and anti-flap isn't particularly schizophrenic.

    I'd never have a peak lapel SB with patch pockets. Bridge too far, right there.

    But when we choose to go with a green tie where we know the outfit would look better with brown, it isn't variety for variety's sake. If we like the way green looks as well, then you are wearing it because you like that tie or you like the rest of the outfit with the tie

    Also, I posit that this looks better with peak rather than notch:
    [​IMG]
    though here the argument would have been "it would have looked better as a suit," which might be true. And I'd again dissent, though purely on the grounds of difference in taste, that with this particular tie, shirt, and square and how they all come together, the rough gray trousers enhance the look more than the matching navy pants would. Which would not have been the case with this:

    [​IMG]
    which was worn as a suit

    I dislike DB jackets. Suits, probably, too. Too stodgy for me. I have the one, and I'll wear it occasionally. Mostly for the sake of variety (which, come to think of it, isn't a bad thing. Again, provided variety looks good and feels right).
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    If we are talking about jetted pockets, pro-peak and anti-flap may not be schizophrenic, but jetted pockets and odd jackets certain is.

    As far as green versus brown ties, I think we're getting a little bit too cute. I don't know any person who debates that green and brown ties both have their place in a wardrobe and can't think of an objective reason why either tie color is wrong or should not be worn. Both are great and have their place under any reasonable interpretation of tradition, aesthetics, etc. You can't say the same for peak lapels on SB odd jackets. If you like peak lapels and don't give a damn about tradition or any rules of classic menswear, then you can certainly go nuts. Most people won't care and the world won't end. But I don't think it's valid to compare two things (peak vs. notch lapels on odd jackets) where one generally isn't done with two other things (brown vs. green ties) where both are done regularly by people of good taste.
     
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I was merely pointing out that we do a lot of things for variety's sake. It's just a question then of the perceived cost of doing so.

    Comparing peak vs notch to green vs brown isn't in anyway a good comparison due to the difference in magnitude.

    Agreed about jetted on odd jackets. Flaps look more appropriate. But I hates them so. I'd rather have no pockets.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Fair enough. I think I am differentiating between doing something where variety is a factor and where it is the sole factor. I like some variety and enjoy wearing different things, but because I like them all versus deciding to wear something just because it is different.
     
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ah, well, I like the way peak lapels look. I'd never spend money just for the sake of variety. Says the guy with over a dozen blue jackets.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    You might have to start wearing more suits, Claghorn. Would always work with peak lapels and as an academic you can ignore CBD.
     
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That is a battle fought by others and lost long ago. It doesn't help that I just like the way different colored pants/jackets look as opposed to a single color block (at least when it comes to solids). Though I do have that moss green suit coming and did just get a brown houndstooth flannel suit. So more suits are own the horizon, I suppose. But both have jackets that will be seeing more service as an odd jacket than suit jacket.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Yeah. Neither are the sorts of suits I think of when peak lapels are involved either.

    I like the odd jacket look too. But I also like patch pockets and notch lapels. Heck, my dinner jacket has shawl lapels. Only peak lapel jackets I have are DB. I think DB is awesome but to each his own.
     
  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    And I notice you say battle and not war, so perhaps there is hope. Or perhaps a celebratory beer too many for the USA women is making me overly pedantic...
     
  11. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Peak lapels on an odd jacket are out of the norm, they're different, they indicate that the wearer marches to a different drummer. To assert, however, that peak lapels on an odd jacket or a single breasted suit are wrong or violate some rule is simply to be seduced by the siren song of prescriptivism. I think the urge to make up rules and then attempt to apply them to a wider community is a basic human instinct. It has happened over and over and over in human history.

    There is nothing wrong whatsoever with peak lapels on an odd jacket or a SB suit. It can look very elegant and somewhat rakish. Whether you like that or not is purely a matter of taste, of opinion. Nothing more.
     
    4 people like this.
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Perhaps instead we can work out a deal to make the Central Valley, Riverside County, and Orange County a state.
     
    2 people like this.
  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Navy mohair peak lapel suits are the perfect evening suits. I'd love to have a suit like this.
    Don't mind the guys monkey posture:
    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  14. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Well, one could make that defense for anything outside a norm. Rules for clothes are based on a mix of norms and aesthetics and always have been as far as I can tell. So unless we accept the intellectual nonsense that is relativism, we do in fact have to say certain things violate rules. One can debate the extent to which older rules remain relevant, but that's different from saying there are no rules, which you seem dangerously close to implying (unless you are merely saying rules regarding peak lapels and relative formality need not apply).
     
  15. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    And I certainly take no issue with peak lapels on a SB suit. It's just the SB odd jacket where I think they are a mistake.
     
  16. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You're the only one that does ;)
     
  17. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    It just looks weird. The suit is beautiful though. Perfect for a night out. You can't really wear black tie anymore, so this is the closest option that's still socially acceptable.
     
  18. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    You guys go all batshit crazy with your revisionism, probably a respected member's opinion now morphed into a rule. SB peak lapel odd jackets were more than okay and popular in the "golden age" as shown below. It's a totally different matter if you personally don't like them, but stop making up all these silly rules that simply doesn't exist.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Guy on the extreme right with jetted pocket to boot

    PS: it's good for variety too. I had to give mine away coz I simply wasn't reaching for it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2015
    7 people like this.
  19. jssdc

    jssdc Senior member

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    I don't know about rules, but I simply dislike peak lapels. I don't even have them on my dinner jacket.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Yeah, peak lapel sport coats can be awesome. I like how the 1930s peak lapels were more horizontal than they're now, like the navy suit I just posted. Contemporary peak lapels are peaking so much that sometimes they extend past the top of the shoulder. Crazy stuff.

    What strikes me is how wide the variety was back in the days. More patterns, fabrics, colours, cuts, lapel shapes, buttoning/amount of buttons.

    In today's business world the only thing that's acceptable is a dark coloured notch lapel suit with two buttons and no patterns that are discernible from more than two feet away. It seems like we're slowly moving towards uniformity, until we'll all be wearing the exact same spandex uniform like in Star Trek.

    I suppose it might still take a while before we get there, but we're slowly heading in that direction. It would certainly make SF easier. Only one thread with one question. Shall I wear my black with yellow or black with red uniform today?
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2015
    2 people like this.

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