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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    All good, dood.


    I haet u.
     
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  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    U luuuuuuv me.
     
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  3. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Truth. Im busted.
     
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  4. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    Which BD looks the best? Trying to get something made from Luxire: 1.
    2.
    Three detail shots of my latest order containing 2 shirts. Modified Default BD: [​IMG] Beautiful shirring: [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    3. http://brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com/post/94446897488/ordering-this-collar-from-luxire-ive-received-a Open to other suggestions as well
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2015
  5. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I prefer the first. I also like Luxire's standard BD.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2015
  6. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    Arghh there are 3 examples in there but I somehow can't get the "3." out of the spoiler!
     
  7. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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  8. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    I'm a fan of the first, the Barba BD. You can view most popular Luxire collars here tinyurl.com/luxirecollars
     
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  9. TexJake

    TexJake Senior member

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    Even including the 3rd option, I have to agree, I prefer the first.
     
  10. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    I was favoring the Barbara BD as well. I really like tweedy's collars as well. They are very similar to the Barbara BD me thinks
     
  11. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    ^Saks never carried Isaia. NM was the only place where I saw them, along with TF.
    Saks in Las Vegas has a pretty substantial Isaia selection. The buyers for Saks 5th Ave. are all quite different. The SF store carries no Isaia, but Edward Green.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2015
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @GuP

    There are two issues for me with BDs, how they look unbuttoned and how they look with a tie. It's hard to get a balance. Adelesco's doesn't have enough "lift" in the collar for my tastes though it might look great unbuttoned.

    I actually don't like the Luxire collar unbuttoned (#1 in your pic) as the collar is leaning too far toward the shoulder, pulling the collar band out. YMMV.

    I've got two basic shapes, based on the Borrelli collar, I think (could be Barba) and the Kamakura collar, with my own adjustments.

    The Kamakura (with it's very gentle, symmetrical "S").

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I don't wear these with ties.They are patterns for my summer shirts. Here's a pic from the Kamakura SF thread (Edit: It's Henry Carter's). Gives a good lift over the tie.

    [​IMG]

    I had mine made with Hemrajani where we added an unfused interlining from my sample (which was fused).

    The other is the Borrelli collar which I would wear with a tie.

    [​IMG]

    Photo from Joe Hemrajani

    It's got a higher band, and two button. Again with modifications to the above. The roll is nice too:

    [​IMG]

    Here's an earlier version. I've reduced the gap in the tie spacing. Shantung haters can look away (tie is Panta, jacket is Eidos). But the collar has a nice lift over the tie.


    [​IMG]

    Because the collar is higher, I use these for more work/casual settings than summer.

    As these were not done by Luxire, I can't help you there. But I'm sure the Kamakura and Barba have been replicated at luxire (and the latter I think must be similar to the borreli).

    BDs in the end are quite varied and tastes vary (Foo had a famous thread about this). Basically, for me, it's the soft curve of the "S" unbuttoned and the shape of the bell curve when buttoned that matter. Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
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  13. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    The Kamakura collar is one of the better balanced BD collars out there.

    FYI that image with the tie is one of my photos (with a HC tie), the shirt is kamakura but I took the photo so if it's being used on the kamakura website I'd appreciate the link to it as they haven't asked permission to use the image
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Borrelli, Panta and Kamakura are best shaped BDs imo.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @Henry Carter

    Sorry, I just googled "Kamakura Collar" and that was one of the first images that came up with a tie. It's actually from the SF thread, not from their website, so I misspoke. Didn't realize it was your pic. Might have to get me a burnt orange tie for the summer.
     
  16. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Well, I thought I could make it work but it's time to let go of the last 38R suit that never fit me. [​IMG]
     
  17. rms340

    rms340 Senior member

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    Hmm I don't know if this is particularly true, I think it's more up to personal preference. I don't own 1 shirt that is a square tail because I think it looks silly. All of my casual shirts that I wear untucked (Oxford cloths, linen blends, etc) all have a rounded tail.
     
  18. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Of course it's true, there is no doubt that round tails are designed to be tucked. If they weren't they wouldn't be round. However it is also personal preference. I don't think anyone will point the wrinkly finger of disdain at you for wearing a round tail untucked, it's simply not what the shirt was designed for.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Shoeluv

    Shoeluv Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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