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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    holy crap! 38 waist?!! You're skinnier than me! Ugh...I'll cut back on the burgers, chips, and beers. I am 31.

    PS.
    Clearly I am buzzed/drunk now.

    Junglethug, I am glad you are active and picking up nice stuff. But I've only seen one WAYWRN from you thus far.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014
  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    jungleroller, looks like you just need to have the pants hemmed and you're ready to go. The sleeves look just about perfect.
     
  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I would strongly recommend against grenadines for three of your first four ties. They're relatively fragile, and you'll be wearing them very frequently. If you're looking at Hober, consider these four or similar: [​IMG] http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-dots/white-on-black-printed-pin-dot-silk-tie-1.html [​IMG] http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-printed-silk-tie-9.html [​IMG] http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-121.html [​IMG] http://www.samhober.com/reppe-weave-solid-silk-ties/black-reppe-silk-tie.html If you think you'll wear more gray than blue suits, then swap the black pindot for a navy pindot.
     
  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Also, since you have time before you'll need these ties, maybe eBay can get you a lower unit cost so that you can buy a few more ties for your rotation.
     
  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Don't understand the whole grenadines are fragile thing. I've had some Hober grenadines that I've worn fairly often for 7 years that look fine. If you take good care of your clothes, I don't think having a number of grenadines is in any way problematic.
     
  6. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Always better to be one step too formal than one step too casual. The thing is, even though he only wears a suit once or twice a week, he is likely to need suit-appropriate shoes on consecutive days now and then, and also perhaps to want want pair for the day time, and keep his black caps fresh for an evening event. Two pairs of oxfords is hardly excessive. I guess we all have our own rules - I've never heard anyone object to closed lacing without a tie though! I'd wear these with an odd jacket and no tie. Heck, I'd wear them with chinos and a polo shirt. :)

    Sorry the link wasn't clear - it's at the top of the description "The wild card". These are indeed Justin "The Shoe Snob" Fitzpatrick's own line. You're right, there is nothing whatsoever essential about these boots, even if you have twenty pairs. The point was that with a couple of pairs already - one very casual, one more versatile, and the addition of these four for a grand - LTBR would be all done on "need", and after that it's about expression and fun and variety. There are certainly more versatile and perhaps more suitable boots for his style, but I think the important thing is to consider stepping off the tracks a bit when the basics are taken care of, whether it's a burgundy budapester or vintage crocodile loafers. :)

    You only say that because he's Asian. Sheesh. Next you'll be suggesting underwear cut for a smaller packet.

    But seriously. I thought of KW for LTBR's list, but they were a touch more expensive and would have messed up my neat arithmetic! I've not seen them in person, but some pics of the hand-grade Ilcea calf numbers really blew me away. My only quibble here is that the plain toe black oxford is actually a bit of an oddity. Highly polished with a dinner suit/tuxedo and some satin laces it could be quite striking. But it's inherently non-traditional so just slightly off the mark for CBD I'd say. A minor detail, though. The brown one is lovely: if the Noodle is doing brown shoes for work, then I guess my previous observation on the black plain toe is moot too, but either way these are as smart as a brown shoe can be.

    My observations on these are the same as the RL ones you posted earlier. But worse. Get a grip man. If you want this style, at least get something with substance and shape (see above).

    1. Did you say earlier that you have a 38" waist? I thought you had a 38" chest?!

    2. Your workout plan involves changing in and out of lots of suits and photographing them, to the rhythm of piped background music all over Georgetown. Leave your credit card at home.
     
  7. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Very elegant
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Bit dull, beautiful, beautiful, funerals.

    I do get your point about the grenadines - not that they'll fall apart, but they can get stretched out of shape a bit and need some rest to let the creases drop out. But my objection to his getting a pile of grenadines is purely aesthetic. They are solids, even though they are nice solids, and what he needs in his life is some more nice classy patterns. A couple of grenades is wonderful, but I'd take your suggestion of those two delicious Macclesfields, a navy pindot as he likes them, and a black tie for funerals and official mourning, ahead of the grenadines by a mile. Quite right. Listen to Uncle Butch, Noodles. I also set great store by his opinion.
     
  9. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  10. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    As brown neats go, actually I don't love it: the way the different coloured flowers are aligned in diagonal rows makes it act like a stripe, and I don't like the effect that much. But it's not my tie. And it's OK.

    Anyway, to answer the question, it doesn't really matter. Three fold and self-tipped will hang more stiffly, and be more resilient if you tend to treat your ties with less than optimum tenderness. Six fold and self-tipped makes it a more natural look but also more delicate - that hand-rolled curly edge might need gentle pressing now and then, and if you twist and squash your tie and those complicated folds get into a muddle...oh my...

    The bottom line is that nobody outside SF, nor mostly in it, will notice the difference unless you make a point of it. But you will know, so go with what fits your life and love.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  11. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    heartfelt thanks. i was on the border with the striped design. hmm.
     
  12. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    I have this brown neat 3 fold with un-tipped w/rolled edges and really is a great tie.

    https://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-134.html
     
  13. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Thanks a lot, mate, looks very good.

    As far as Grenadine constructions go, I seem to recall @Claghorn saying that he would go for other than 3F next time for SH, 4F or 5F, with thinnest lining? Can anyone chip in?
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Oh bummer. I just woke up to the fact that I have really crappy shoes. I want to jump off from my deck. $/@_#&$^$#! $

    My waist size is 31 but it just got bigger from last night.

    Uncle Nemo, ur comment about the small packet undies was a low blow. Please apologize to my package.

    I am gonna get some Cordovans and kick some CBD ass
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Patience Rudals! Especially after a late night binge of Thor and Tostitos (actually how was the movie?).

    Let's talk about the "one" shoe for you before you buy something.
     

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