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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  2. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    LoL :hide:

    On a serious note, I was hoping going the MTM/"almost custom" route would get me a nice fitting suit, but I guess I was wrong :confused:
     
  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes. More than ok.

    Styleforum will allow anyone to advertise (within reason) via an Affiliate Vendor thread provided they pay an AV fee on a monthly basis and they don't break the law (scam, steal, etc). That is the extent of accountability on that front.

    One of the reasons this works is because, as a forum, we are able to hold AV's more accountable than we would a normal B&M store. There is more interaction between customer base and ownership. There is more at stake in that interaction from the AV's perspective; much of their success on SF is contingent on reputation here. If they are able to make a crappy product and/or provide very bad advice to a customer without being held accountable, what is the disincentive for them not to continue to do it?

    Would you not want the next person to avoid the mistake the AV let you make?


    (and I'm really hoping the AV is not Kent Wang as I really like the guy and have a suit in the works from him)
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2015
  4. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    KW doesn't do multiple fittings, so you're good.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Senior member

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    Hello again. Bringing this discussion over here for further analysis:

     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2015
  6. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Comparing the same sizes, Roma is roomier overall. As for the jackets' button stance, it's about the same I would say. Maybe a hair lower on Roma because all the Roma jackets that I've seen are longer (BOC) than the Milano jackets. But noting that you'd notice. I can't fit into a 40R Milano, but do fit into a 40R Roma. As for the rise, it's considerably higher. You'll definitely notice the difference when wearing the trousers.
     
  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    SVB, the sportcoat perfectly demonstrates the changes I suggested. It is much more flattering on you than the suit jacket. The suit makes you look like you have disproportionately long, tubular torso with short legs. This is hugely overcompensates for the "defect" you're trying to correct, your short torso and long legs. I think you said that you're around 5'9", right? When you revealed that, I and others were shocked to learn that you aren't 6'+. You've managed to get the body proportions of a tall man in a relatively short frame. I think a lot of guys would trade with you. :)
     
    2 people like this.
  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    I would have sworn you were >>6 feet
     
  9. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior member

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    I think the SC has better proportions for you. In my experience, one is looking more for the natural proportions of the coat than for the overall body ratios, because the coat and its lines are so prominent. The second coat is slightly wider at the shoulders and has more natural proportions. It is also more pleasing in relation to your head. The suit emphasizes the stretched look, in particular when one looks at the breast.

    I recently posted this in the German forum (as part of a larger study of shapes and styles). These three SCs are of exactly the same length and A and C are the same shoulder width and waist. I was a little bit surprised that several people found A to be the most flattering. Btw I have the opposite problem of a long torso and short legs, broad shoulders and narrow hips. The long but narrow quarters of A achieve a slimmer look than the longer lapel opening of C.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. jssdc

    jssdc Senior member

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    Kent's pattern has front darts so I don't think that jacket was from him. I also couldn't see Kent putting someone in a coat where the shoulders are flat out too small, and he's also rather conservative about waist suppression.

    What did you commission btw?
     
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I much prefer C over A, if it were an inch or two longer and the waist slightly let out. That's a really nice cut, just a bit too short for you atm. Get an L next time and you're good.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2015
    2 people like this.
  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Having the status of AV gives a false sense of security to consumers. It doesn't say anything at all about the company, other than that it's paying SF for advertisement. See it like a TV commercial. There is no vetting process.

    Plenty of AV's have stolen from customers or delivered sub standard goods. They're not affiliated to SF in any way except for having a thread, and SF should state this much more clearly, because the name is very misleading.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2015
    3 people like this.
  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Damn, posted the ties in the midst of a serious fit discussion!

    Will come back to them, but yes Claghorn, I do agree that the green is the only sure thing. But I'm at the point I can branch out a bit in ties and wanted some clearly "summery" ties, something less staid than what I usually wear. So, a bit of orange. Of the first three, this would be the one I would likely go for.

    [​IMG]

    Ok, carry on about fit. I might join in later....
     
  14. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Don't like any of those ties Tweedy.
     
  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    Not even the green shantung? I think this would be great, with brown and tan odd jackets.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2015
  16. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    It's ok, but I'm not a fan of the triple stripe with the shantung.
     
  17. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's sort of what I like about it (having many striped ties with "fewer stripes")! One can go too far, of course, on this. There's a Viola Milano four stripe I've seen pics of (I think Claghorn might actually have it? or something similar?). That's one stripe too many for me.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2015
  18. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Yeah, I get it, but it's a bit busy with the shantung. Better for a less textured fabric. Vanda has great summer weight ties.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2015
  19. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I take your point. Though oddly, for me the stripes dampen slightly the slubs of the shantung that many find off putting in such material.

    What are your summery ties for odd jackets?
     
  20. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Love that denim blue tie with the creamsicle stripes. A great summer tie.
     

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