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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Actually, pattern matching will be the #1 issue in taking the sleeve up from the sleevehead. The other is that reattaching the sleeve may change the sleeve pitch - either a risk or an opportunity, depending on how good the sleeve rotation already is for you.

    Anywhere between 2 and 4.5 cm is acceptable distance from the sleeve end. 3-4 is usually standard
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2015
    3 people like this.
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Tapering the sleeves once the buttonholes are cut means it has to be done on the 'wrong' side of the sleeves. This will alter the sleeve pitch, so be very careful with that.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    What's the wrong side?
     
  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Not what I was referring to when I said it wouldn't be a problem, but point well taken.
     
  5. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    The front seam: tapering along that seam will effectively reduce the pitch sleeve a bit.
     
  6. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Oh, I've had it done both ways.
     
  7. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    Last edited: May 31, 2015
  8. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Agree that supplying jackets with finished working buttonholes is retarded.

    I've bought a number of items from SuitSupply and am now very cautious. I walk away from any jacket whose sleeves are too long or short. (Too long is probably worse than too short.) Especially if the fabric has a pattern.
     
  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's the one I had in mind. Their newer models lowered the button points and made a few other tweaks to make the jackets more attractive.

    On a different note, Henry Carter's having a sale and you can get that solid slubby brown tie for under 60USD right now. I'm good on brown (almost 20 ties, 5-6 which are solid brown of some sort), or I'd jump on one of them.

    Speaking of brown ties, I want to thank @The Noodles for this:

    [​IMG]

    Mr and Mrs Noodles will be in town for about a week in September. Which means Mrs. Claghorn and Mrs. Noodles will be spending time together. If you guys don't here from Noodles or me after that, you'll know why.
     
    3 people like this.
  10. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    Clag - what stubby tie under 60?

    This: http://www.henrycarter.com.au/product/chocolate-shantung-silk/ ?

    Is that versatile? I rarely wear ties, so want something that can be rocked with a lot of outfits.


    Spier and Mackay are in canada shit. Might be a pain in the ass if the jacket doesn't fit well and returns are required etc etc
     
  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those prices are in Australian Dollars. Convert to USD they drop below 60.

    Very versatile if you wear a lot of odd jackets, less so with suits. The most versatile tie, in my opinion, of the HC sale is the olive neat. I just really love that brown tie.

    I've done a return with S&M. Was pretty straightforward.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2015
  12. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    Gray pants, blue/brown blazer, brown/burgundy shoes, olive neat or the stubby dark brown tie?
     
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can't go wrong with either. The SM jacket is light enough for the brown tie.

    Olive neat is more formal and the brown more casual. I'd let that dictate your decision between the two.
     
  14. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Looking very "clagssy" there, Clags.
    Enjoy it!
     
  15. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    I'm glad the tie ended up with someone who will give it good use. Sorry it didn't work for you, Noodles!
     
    2 people like this.
  16. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'll wear it with pride, Mr.Six!
     
    2 people like this.
  17. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    Would that HC neat or the choc stubby brown be the first tie to get?
     
  18. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is this your actual first tie? Then go olive. Just safer and easier to wear.
     
  19. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

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    Quote:
    "Slubby" referring to the texture/material(?) of the tie ... ask for a stubby tie and you may cause some confusion. Even worse you might end up with what you ask for.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2015
  20. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    After from sleuthing, it was either Despos or Manton who said 0.75" from center of button to sleeve end is the limit, so this goes along with that. Don't think I can take from shoulder as the windowpane is quite wide (3-4 inches) and it'll ruin the excellent pattern matching.

    Is sleeve pitch altered even if the sleeve isn't removed? I just need my forearms tapered/opening, not the upper (got turkey legs for arms).
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2015

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