Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I like 3 and 4.

    1 and 6 have some fit issues - shoulders and arms. I also dislike the colour of 1.

    The very open quarters on 2 make you look a bit "hippy" (I mean anatomically, not culturally).

    6 is actually really nice, except the shoulders are too wide. Maybe a good alterations tailor could fix this for you.

    5 and 7 are ok but don't really grab me for some reason. 9 is better but Clags is right, the quarters are odd.

    8 looks ok.
     
  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Having taken Monkeyface's critique on board, I've now made a few resolutions.

    1. Sent three jackets and three suits to Spoo today. All top quality stuff, but either didn't fit right or didn't flatter my form.

    2. No more impulse purchases of jackets or suits.

    3. Appointment with incontro for next week. Not sure yet whether this will yield a jacket or a suit - most likely the latter.

    4. Having nearly pulled the trigger on another G&G or a Vass, and much as I'd like to finally own a pair of the latter, I've stayed my hand and will instead fill the perceived gap in my shoe rack with a commission from Tianzi Shanghai. They have my measurements, and did a brilliant job last time, at about 20% of the RRP of a pair of Gaziani.

    We declare these things to be self-evident, and hereby affix our solemn seal and oath, sworn in the name of the Great Chicken In The Sky.
     
  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I usually swear by the Flying Spaghetti Monster, but the great chicken in the sky will do for now.

    Great choices!! Looking forward to seeing te results.
     
  4. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Thanks for all the feedback. I knew the hip thing had gotten a bit worse later last year with some weight gain...seeing the pictures helps with the motivation get back to fighting weight.

    My shoulders tend to do better with a little structure in the jacket because they are uneven due to a college sports injury.

    I was originally thinking of sending #1 & #4 to Luxire as base pattern to replicate and I could make adjustments. #4 as a sport coat and lower the buttoning point. #1, loosen the waist measurement and possibly decrease shoulders slightly.

    #3 & #9, had no alterations besides sleeve length, so I will consider both going forward.

    This was when I was a few pounds lighter.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    #1: Kiton
    #2: Eidos
    #3: Formosa
    #4: Corneliani
    #5: Andrew Lock MTM
    #6: Logsdail MTM
    #7: Nikky
    #8: Canali Kei
    #9: Canali mainline
     
  5. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    The Formosa looks indeed fantastic in the full shot, Euro. Still, I think #4 (the Corneliani) would make a good base pattern too. Overall, I feel it has the most flattering proportions for your body type.
     
  6. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Thanks Eliod. Full shot and a couple pounds lighter [​IMG]
     
  7. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    The Formosa needs bigger/more extended shoulder IMHO. In that pic it looks like your hips are wider than your shoulders. Perhaps a roped shoulder would suit you better?

    The chest could be a bit bigger as well btw.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  8. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Plane ticket booked!
    Going to Seoul on March 27th!
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    BnT the 28th?
     
  10. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I wish.
    I will visit their shop, at the least. I really do want a suit from them. A [email protected] suit. I am not sure how my budget will work out though. I am hoping my annual bonus will cover it and then some. I have $2,000 budgeted to spend for the trip. We will stay at my wife's house so that budget is really for just food and shopping. I will be visiting Washington for shirts. You have you remind me how to fix my collar issues. I think their shirts are excellent. Let me know what you want me to pick up as we get close to March.
     
  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I love the way that Formosa looks on euro. I think its pretty spot on.
     
  12. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    So of the two full body pics I posted above, your preference is for the Kiton? It does have a more extended shoulder than the Formosa.
     
  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I may be mistaken, but the first is the Kiton and the 2nd the Formosa, right?

    I much prefer the Kiton jacket over the Formosa one, as it makes you look slimmer and more athletic, due to the wider shoulders.

    I do prefer the trousers of the second one though. The kiton's are a bit too slim. Combine te jacket of the Kiton with trousers of the Formosa and you have'll a great suit.

    The Formosa would look great on you with slightly more extended shoulders, and a more swelled chest. I suppose you could ask Luxire to make those changes, but I'd be very careful with how they interpret that. They might not know how to do it an give you a very structured shoulder instead.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    I am taking mental notes on which ones Euro may be writing off so I may pester him later for sales. But probably just for SCs. I think our inseams may differ by a lot.

    I also don't know why I chose to write it this way when you're in this thread. Super Bowl hangover excuse inserted here.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  15. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Correct, Kiton first and Formosa second. I wouldn't send Luxire Formosa - I may hold off on another Formosa until I can drop a bit of weight. I see what you are seeing but also believe an inch or so off the waist would make a world of difference.

    I may send Luxire the Kiton. I think they should be able to replicate fairly close and I can provide some slight adjustments.

    Thanks again.
     

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