Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Location:
    New Zealand


  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,117
    Likes Received:
    21,607
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    I'm a giant proponent of the blazersuit and I have them in two and three patch pocket configs. I prefer two, but there is certainly nothing wrong with three provided the jacket is muted or solid (otherwise, the outline of the patch may make the chest look overly busy).

    At this point, I'd take hopsack over fresco. But if I only had one, I'd go fresco 0520
     


  3. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

    Messages:
    796
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2013
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, MI
    You're welcome--will update when I get the second suit. It may be a while--it took about 3 months for the first.
     


  4. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

    Messages:
    342
    Likes Received:
    52
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Then wear black balmorals, and the Midnight Navy grenadine you were just showing off in the Hober thread.

    Edit: I see that you did. What a killer look, I do this with that same tie and a Tom Ford suit.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015


  5. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

    Messages:
    656
    Likes Received:
    390
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2012
    Would a light gray and/or blue Hopsack or linen mix blazer suit be a good option for a cruise? French and Italian Riviera. Looking for options that I could mix up for day trips and still look good for evening.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,117
    Likes Received:
    21,607
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    There is a place in the large closet of an accomplished dresser for a gray blazersuit. But I think even he would grab blue over gray for use in a limited travel wardrobe.

    @Coxsackie : I also think it's time you move away from RTW. I've seen a few that did legit fit you great, but I recall you mentioning that you have some spine issues that muck up your posture, and all things considered, you've done a damn fine job hiding the issue through RTW. But given the size of your wardrobe, it's definitely time to start thinking along the lines of getting one perfectly fitting jackets instead of two jackets of varying fit (from above passable to below).

    You and JFrat should meet up and visit Incontro together. I've always found it easier to have a second perspective when talking to a tailor.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015


  7. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    4,746
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Cox (still cracks me up), I might've said it a little harsher than others, but it was meant as a good natured intervention of sorts. As others say, you'd benefit so much from bespoke or MTM. I bet you could get some awesome fits if you'd just manage to not buy the next few jackets that pop up on your radar and just get some BNT instead.
    Quality over quantity has never been more true than in today's world of online one click purchases.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015


  8. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Location:
    New Zealand
    

    Thanks :) I love Tom Ford - his stuff goes really well with a monochrome dark style.
     


  9. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Location:
    New Zealand
    

    I am meeting Incontro on the 10th if that suits :)
     


  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,070
    Likes Received:
    31,234
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    Late to the party.

    Big yes to the oxford cloth dress shirt.

    Great news about the appt, jfrat. I think that blue donegal would be boss as a suit and if you do triple patch it is easiky a blazersuit.
     


  11. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,767
    Likes Received:
    6,800
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    One of my all time SF favs, @NOBD 's blue donegal suit:

    [​IMG]
     


  12. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    4,025
    Likes Received:
    11,139
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    MF, your advice was taken in the spirit in which it was intended. No offense whatsoever, and you are of course right. I have half a dozen brand-name jackets and suits which fit my frame poorly and will be consigned to Spoo shortly.

    GNATters' thoughts on possible B&T commissions would be greatly welcomed. Please click on the spoiler below if you feel like lending me a hand with any feedback, suggestions and comments.

    Please note that I do not require "staple" suits for my job. In fact it befits my work situation to show a bit of sartorial flair. I have plenty of window-panes, chalkstripes etc so I'm now looking for fabrics with some textural interest and subtle colours. Classic but also individual.

    Last year I discussed duplicating (with very slight changes) this suit in a brown Draper fabric from the B&T tumblr:

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Colour and texture fit my brief, but late last year I purchased a dark brown flannel suit (Sartore) and a mid brown houndstooth 3pc (SuSu), both of which fit well and are keepers; and so I'm now looking elsewhere than brown.

    Here are some other pieces from the B&T tumblr which tickle my fancy:

    [​IMG]

    ^ I would have this made as a 2pc suit with 3r2 jacket, lapels and shoulder expression as above; high-rise pants with single forward pleat, tab adjusters, 5cm cuffs. Not suitable for Aussie summers, but by the time this were delivered, it would be autumn here.

    [​IMG]

    Donegal - love it. Also this material doesn't look too heavy. (It never gets that cold in Australia.) I would get this made up exactly as in this photo, with matching trousers configured as previously. I don't think patch chest pockets suit me - with my barrel chest, there's too much convexity at that point, and stuffing a square into such a pocket just doesn't really work for me. So the above cut is just right.

    This colour is gorgeous, but as already stated, I need to move away from brown. A dark green donegal like Braddock's recent much-lauded suit would be cool. Maybe even go three-piece for maximum usage and mix-match flexibility.


    [​IMG]

    Simple and superb. But I already have a blue flannel suit (SuSu La Spalla), so this could be a good odd-jacket project. Thoughts on buttons?

    I could go on and on. Really fired up now. (Where the fuck the money for this will come from is another issue again...)
     


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,070
    Likes Received:
    31,234
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    Agreed, Elio. That NOBD suit is sick.

    Cox, hop on the donegal train?
     


  14. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,767
    Likes Received:
    6,800
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    @Coxsackie since you mention you love donegal, why not go with the on I posted just above? I think that shade would make it look very distinguished with your complexion (grey hair, blue eyes)
     


  15. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Senior member

    Messages:
    173
    Likes Received:
    233
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2014
    Location:
    Washington, DC and Shanghai
    Cox, I think ur in the right direction with the glen plaid blue check... That's gonna be my next commission :slayer:
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by