Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    2" should be enough, perhaps it's just the perspective of the photo then.
    The suit is very nice indeed. Is that one of your Partenopea's?
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015


  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Have you considered sending that jacket to Luxire for replication? Since you have the fit of your pants dialed in with them, getting a suit with this cut in fresco will be awesome if they get it right.
     


  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Yep!

    I am considering it, but I'm a bit worried about the chest and shoulder construction. It's not easy to construct a shoulder like this, and if they don't get it right, it'll look seriously off. The fact that they're still not consistent with shirred shoulders on shirts makes me hesitant.

    If it turns out right I'll have the deal of a lifetime, because I could basically order nearly any suit for for $800-900 including fabric. If they get it wrong though, I'll be stuck with a $600 closet ornament.

    They have a test jacket, but that one doesn't have canvassing, so it doesn't tell me much about the way the chest will look.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015


  4. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    I am trying to figure out this exact question. I sent in an Attolini jacket for replication. I specifically asked for the shoulder construction to be replicated exactly. Theresa asked whether it would be okay for them to open up the lining to study the shoulder, which I took to be a good sign that they would attempt to do so. The jacket that they made was excellent with regards to replicating the dimensions of the jacket but the shoulders and chest were different. More structured. They actually did a very good job but it was not what I'd asked for.
    I am now in the process of making a second jacket with Luxire. This time they have said that they will replicate the Attolini shoulder construction, so I have sent that jacket back to them to study.
     


  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Very interesting, thanks for letting me know! Would you mind posting a pic or two of the jacket you have now, and perhaps keep us posted on the results of the second jacket? It'd be much appreciated!

    I placed an order for the discounted indigo Sashiko fabric. I'm thinking of either replicating my Valstarino, or have them use those measurements, add a bit of length, and make it into an Arnys Forestiere. Tough choice!

    Anyway, a question for all the Noodlers: A kind of arnys signature was the two tone lining, the red and yellow being the classic, but they've used other colours as well. Which two colours should I go for with an indigo cotton fabric? Here are two examples:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015


  6. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Question: if I am wearing a navy suit with a white shirt and brown silk tie, would you recommend chocolate suede oxfords with broguing, or plain cap-toe oxfords in burgundy?
     


  7. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    I'd switch the white shirt for a light blue, and either of those choices would be fine
     


  8. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    If you are going to wear a white shirt, which is fine, go with the plain cap toes to keep the level of formality consistent.
     


  9. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Okay - so white shirt is definitely more formal than blue?
     


  10. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    My main reason for white is that I don't wear it often and I really want to go as formal as possible.
     


  11. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Incidentally, I now have an appointment booked in Sydney to get measured for B&T - so any advice/suggestions are more than welcome. I'm flying in a week and a bit,
     


  12. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    Ah, understood. Then go with the plain cap toe as Murl suggested.
     


  13. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Yes.

    As for B&T, I say let Incontro work his magic. I hope you have been following their Tumblr feed because they have some beautiful stuff coming out of there.
     


  14. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    White is more formal than blue.

    And if you want to be very formal...your shirt should be french cuff and you would wear a black, midnight/navy, grey or silver tie and black plain captoe oxfords.
     


  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah; incontro is really good at what he does. It's pretty impressive, the system they've worked out.
     


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