Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.
Good call NS
That stripe MF has is the mutts nuts too
B, if you are happy with jacket length, sleeves can come down a bit. There isn't anything a tailor can do to make A work.
I have the Oxford stripe from Luxire and it was awesome. It accidentally got thrown in the wrong load in the red bled onto the white....hard to tell from this pic
As long as it's a consistent bleed, I say keep wearing it.
Still looks good. Iron and march on.
Yeah, I thought about it but it just looks dingy. It's been in the closet for 6 months.
Red Oxford university stripe....I think.
Upon the advice of all here I am considering an appointment in Sydney with B&Tailor. Are there any threads on here you would recommend for me to read up first? Also, what would you recommend I commission first given that my Auckland tailor is making me a solid navy jacket and grey trousers?
Is shirring only coveted in bespoke dress shirts or is it coveted in suit jackets as well? Any examples of shirring on jackets? What are your thoughts on them?
From what I understand it's not uncommon on neapolitan jackets. A mark of Liverano is that they intentionally don't shirr their jackets unlike most of their contemporaries: just their shirts.
Do you mean spalla camicia? For shirts, there are good RTW options (Inglese) that have shirring. I have it on quite a few jackets with spalla camicia shoulders and a bunch of Inglese shirts with shirring. It looks terrible when done poorly and excellent when done right....matter of personal taste though.
I've been coming around on spalla camicia on jackets, but haven't completely gotten there yet. I've gone from that is sloppy looking to it's ok, but not yet to oh it looks great.
Do folks think spalla camicia suit shoulders can be worn in cbd work environments? I worry that people will see me as either sloppy or affected.
Edit to say that I haven't come around to it on me. I've seen it look great on others.
From what I've seen, it's reserved for casual suits and jackets. Even if you look at NMWA, all of the more conservative suits have spalla cadente morbida (soft) shoulder construction.
I don't work in a CBD environment so I prefer it. Also, the less structure the better for people like me with drop shoulders and jacked up backs.
More important: choose a shoulder expression that flatters your body type. I know, spalla camicia is the iGent thing at the moment, but you see too many guys with sloping or narrow shoulders with them. And they look ridiculous... YMMV etc.
You should read my interview, of course ^_^
I'd advocate a suit slightly lighter than navy with a subtle but interesting texture.
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