Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Good call NS

    That stripe MF has is the mutts nuts too :nodding:
     


  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes.
     


  3. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    B, if you are happy with jacket length, sleeves can come down a bit. There isn't anything a tailor can do to make A work.
     


  4. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I have the Oxford stripe from Luxire and it was awesome. It accidentally got thrown in the wrong load in the red bled onto the white....hard to tell from this pic

    [​IMG]
     


  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    As long as it's a consistent bleed, I say keep wearing it.
     


  6. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    What fabric?

    Still looks good. Iron and march on.
     


  7. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Yeah, I thought about it but it just looks dingy. It's been in the closet for 6 months.



    Red Oxford university stripe....I think.
     


  8. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Upon the advice of all here I am considering an appointment in Sydney with B&Tailor. Are there any threads on here you would recommend for me to read up first? Also, what would you recommend I commission first given that my Auckland tailor is making me a solid navy jacket and grey trousers?
     


  9. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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    Is shirring only coveted in bespoke dress shirts or is it coveted in suit jackets as well? Any examples of shirring on jackets? What are your thoughts on them?
     


  10. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    From what I understand it's not uncommon on neapolitan jackets. A mark of Liverano is that they intentionally don't shirr their jackets unlike most of their contemporaries: just their shirts.
     


  11. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Do you mean spalla camicia? For shirts, there are good RTW options (Inglese) that have shirring. I have it on quite a few jackets with spalla camicia shoulders and a bunch of Inglese shirts with shirring. It looks terrible when done poorly and excellent when done right....matter of personal taste though.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015


  12. LeBeef

    LeBeef Senior member

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    I've been coming around on spalla camicia on jackets, but haven't completely gotten there yet. I've gone from that is sloppy looking to it's ok, but not yet to oh it looks great.

    Do folks think spalla camicia suit shoulders can be worn in cbd work environments? I worry that people will see me as either sloppy or affected.

    Edit to say that I haven't come around to it on me. I've seen it look great on others.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015


  13. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    From what I've seen, it's reserved for casual suits and jackets. Even if you look at NMWA, all of the more conservative suits have spalla cadente morbida (soft) shoulder construction.

    I don't work in a CBD environment so I prefer it. Also, the less structure the better for people like me with drop shoulders and jacked up backs.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015


  14. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    More important: choose a shoulder expression that flatters your body type. I know, spalla camicia is the iGent thing at the moment, but you see too many guys with sloping or narrow shoulders with them. And they look ridiculous... YMMV etc.
     


  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You should read my interview, of course ^_^

    I'd advocate a suit slightly lighter than navy with a subtle but interesting texture.
     


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