Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Continue to build your relationship with your local tailor. Local is always better for the accessibility provided he does decent work. When you go to Sydney then try Pjohnson or BnT and on your future trip to Italy try any tailor of your choosing. It's that simple.

    For shirts and pants. If you already have something with a decent fit then send it over to Luxire.

    It's really that simple.
     
  2. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    I'm surprised no one has mentioned NSM. They were the sweethearts of the forum a few years ago and I believe Vox still uses them for his Italian stuff. I always got the sense that they were considerably less expensive than the likes of Rubinacci and Liverano.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
  3. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    NSM is definitely less expensive and look really good, but I'm surprised that jfrater isn't more into the idea of BnT, seeing he really seem to like L&L. BnT probably have the most similar house style to L&L, of all the tailors available in Oceania.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
  4. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    The Liverano cut is very comfortable. It has a very high armhole that wears easily. It is a very masculine cut. It is not your light-airy-neapolitan style. The crescent shaped quarters leading up to the wide lapels gives your body a very fit appearance which perhaps slightly exaggerates your chest shape. The shoulders are also nothing like the neapolitan style...they aren't super structured military-like like you might see from Huntsman...but they aren't super soft either. At least that's how my suit feels on me...

    jfrater doesn't have to travel to Florence to work with Liverano...they are regularly available every few months in Hong Kong through the Armoury.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I think having a signature look is a bit overrated. Its fine to have a variety of different looks you can put together as long as they are all coherent and consistently good. Its one thing if you happen to like dressing a specific or particular way, but if you dont have that by nature, I see no wrong in putting together different vibed fits.
     
  6. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Waiting for them to go to Hong Kong for each fitting would drag out the process for probably one year+. jfrater has said he doesn't like waiting.

    --

    NSM, Steed, and other traveling tailors are much less expensive than established houses like Liverano, Rubinacci, and A&S since they can't pull clients just off name cache. But they run the same problem for jfrater as above, waiting for trunk shows for fittings.
     
  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    @jfrater
    I do think that you are moving too fast and making too many purchases. I say slow down a bit.

    Well...at least you are not making the same kinds of mistakes that I made before this thread got started.
    - 3 Zegna suits (wrong size at full retail) - sold 1 at $400, kept 2 as beaters
    - 2 RLBL suits (too slim at full retail) - sold both for $400-500 a piece
    - 1 Isaia suit (wrong size at full retail) - returned for full refund
    - 2 RLBL derby shoes (wrong size, wrong style at full retail) - kept as beaters
    - 8 Zegna shirts (at full retail [​IMG]) - kept all
    - x Brioni, Charvet, and TF ties (terrible selections at full retail) - returned for full refund
    __________________________________________________________________________________
    With help from Noodlers: [​IMG]
    - 3 suits (correct size at a great deal) (credit to all y'all and Greg)
    - 2 C&J oxfords (credit to Cleav)
    - x ties from Sam Hober, Vanda, NMWA, etc (credit to all y'all)
    - quit alcohol (1 yr) (credit to my wife)
    - got married (credit to my wife)
    - Launched Noodles[​IMG] suit collection (credit to SB)


     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
  8. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    One year + is the the average wait time for any serious and professional bespoke tailor.

    Sure, you can get it done faster and cheaper. But it may not fit as well or be of the quality that is standard at the high end of the spectrum.
     
  9. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    lol that's utterly ridiculous
     
  10. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    I should have added...for any serious and professional travelling bespoke tailor.

    Ofc if you are local or willing to travel direct for fittings it can be expedited...
     
  11. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    It is almost comforting to know I am not alone :) congrats on the quitting and the marriage! What a year it's been for you! I do intend to slow down now and focus on the tailor instead. I might try to learn a bit about fabric in the meantime.
     
  12. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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  13. Christopher Essex

    Christopher Essex Senior member

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    Isn't your beard your signature look? ;)
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Signature beard - Not overrated

    Signature look - Yes overrated
     
  15. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ In Sitches: overrated :nodding:
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015

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