Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    The Anderson and Sheppard cut is considered "London Drape" and has extra folds of cloth in the chest ("drape") and very soft shoulders. I haven't heard A&S suits called anything but "comfortable and relaxed." The iGent blogosphere often quotes Fred Astaire as saying that he did all of his dancing in A&S suits.

    Also, the house cuts Rubinacci and many other Neapolitan tailors are very similar style to Anderson and Sheppard. They are all descended from Frederick Scholte and his famous "London Drape."
     


  2. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

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    Speaking about online MTM … just got my second shirt back from Proper Cloth. I did the soft president collar this time. @EliodA, is the collar height better on this one?

    There are still fit issues in the waist and chest. And, for some reason the collar is loose this time. Don't know if it's the soft collar, the height or the fabric … linen/cotton. I'd appreciate any help you guys can so I can make the next revision. Thanks!!!

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  3. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    @jfrater for a different perspective and relevant to some of the comments upthread, you may find it interesting to read about Anthony J. Drexel Biddle, one of the most stylish Americans of the 20th century.
     


  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Yes, collar height is better but now the collar points are too short. That's what's causing them to float. If you increase the height of the collar band you should lengthen the collar points accordingly. Personally I prefer collar points that are a little bit too long, which automatically gives them a nice gentle curve while the points will always rest on the collar bone (that's why it's got that name, I guess...)
     


  5. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I think so too. To date, I've done one bespoke suit. It cost me less than $1K through a Shanghai bespoke outfit. The result was actually very good, but it's strictly a "fun" suit which I might wear once per year. The process of choosing fabric, style and all the little options is actually pretty intimidating and very easy to get wrong. I'm firmly on the "jf, stay away from L&L for the moment" team.

    You have a nice turn of phrase.

    B&T have a fitter in Sydney (@incontro ) so @jfrater doesn't have to fly to Seoul. He could fly in to Sydney and get fitted for both B&T and PJohnson. Plus the Sydney SF crew would I'm sure take him out for drinks too.
     


  6. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    As to jfrater's style or lack thereof, that is a valid point, if rather brusquely phrased by the other gentleman.

    I've been on this board for 18 months now and have had a very similar (if less extreme) journey to jfrater - and indeed, most likely similar to many here.

    Frantic koppage at the start, many errors, no real consistency between fits, trying out all sorts of different looks and posting bizarre fits which garnered few thumbs and some raised eyebrows.

    Looking back on my picture gallery I'm starting to discern a "Coxsackie look" but I think it's still somewhat inchoate. I have a way to go yet. I'd like to try another bespoke piece with maybe B&T or PJohnson, or even go back to my Shanghai people, but I'm by no means ready to start dropping 6K with the likes of Liverano.
     


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    jFrat, sounds like Sydney is your home base!
     


  8. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    haven't been following the thread too closely sorry, is this with that Brendon chap I gave you the details of?
     


  9. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Actually no - Brendan has a 3 year waiting list and I'm not willing to wait that long :)
     


  10. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    I will definitely consider Johnson depending on the results of my Auckland tailor trial.
     


  11. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    wow, must be plenty of people over in un zed wanting bespoke for a 3 yr waiting list.
     


  12. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Apparently so! The tailor I have chosen will have stuff ready for the first fitting in one month - something to look forward to :)
     




  13. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    A savile row trained tailor in Auckland.
     


  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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