Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Likes Received:
    6,784
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    True, KW's own suits do look more interesting, but I still find the silhouette not really that exciting. Tira is another story of course, he can wear a burlap sack and still look stylish.

    Thanks for the link!
     


  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,845
    Likes Received:
    4,808
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    Styling aside. You will hardly get an impeccable fit with KW unless you try x times (for a dude that struggles with RTW) and with that money and effort you should be able to fund a nice bespoke suit,
     


  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    9,040
    Likes Received:
    11,296
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    The thing about Tira and Kent's own stuff is that is entirely unstructured. That's why They always look so comfy....they are!

    The problem with the trial suit is that it is structured. So if you want an unstructured look, it is pretty risky to make the adjustments because going from structured to unstructured changes everything. If you were getting measured, it would be a different story. That's the risk of online MTM.

    This is coming from a guy with first hand experience and a $900 closet ornament. Plenty have had good results though, so don't take this as a stab at his business....just the online MTM process in general.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015


  4. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,114
    Likes Received:
    2,649
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011



    I cannot believe we're still comparing KW to bespoke. For $800 - 900, I get a suit that is on par with a nice Corneliani or Canali mainline suit and fits me better than either would off the rack. What I miss out on, though, are those sexy lapel rolls on my Italian jackets as the KW lapel roll is, unfortunately, poor. The natural shoulders on my KW are nice, but I do sometimes look wantonly at the shoulders on my Zegna Roma cut jackets. Again, though, the KW suit fits me better than any of my OTR Italian jackets. So, it comes down to asking what is most important. And for me, with all my fit issues, I have to go KW and am very pleased with what I receive for my money.

    Is the fit of my suit on par with bespoke? No. Is better than anything else I can obtain for comparable money? Absolutely. Would I get a suit from Despos if I could afford it? Absolutely. I think we're losing perspective, though, when we're trashing KW because his product is inferior to bespoke. JFrater clearly has reasons for wanting to try Luxire and KW first and we should respect that.
     


  5. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Location:
    New Zealand
    

    Thanks :) the ingle de shirts haven't arrived yet - they are hella slow with online ordering.
     


  6. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Ok just got back from the tailor - 4 hours of incredibly thorough measuring discussing picking etc. he was incredibly nice and offered food and drinks. It was totally worth the 7 hour drive. He took me outside to double check certain fabrics against my complexion and gave excellent advice on colors while letting me ask millions of questions.

    I return in a month for the first fitting. We went for:

    1 - shirt in blue relatively inexpensive fabric. I showed him a borrelli royal shirt and a liverano shirt I like and he advised me on a bigger collar with slightly less spread.

    2 - trousers in wool - solid but nice texture in the weave. One pair in off white because I love white trousers.

    3 - jacket in 90% wool 10% silk. It's a solid navy but the silk adds a Shen that gives texture in the light. It's beautiful.

    Everything is very versatile - he asked what was already in my wardrobe and lots of questions about personality. He is adjusting for my lopsided shoulders ( I dudnt even know I had!)

    His style is very soft with little padding. He showed me a fully canvassed jacket he had just finished and it was light as a feather.

    My jacket will be two button, fully canvassed, fully lined, very little shoulder padding, hand sewn button holes and rounded fairly open quarters a la liverano.

    I will obviously update in a month with some photos. I'll fly up for that visit I think.

    Edited to say the cost for all of the above is roughly the same as a Brioni suit off the rack.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015


  7. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

    Messages:
    5,230
    Likes Received:
    4,695
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2009
    Sounds great Jfrat. Thanks for sharing your experience! It sounds like it was a great trip.

    Please keep everyone updated!
     


  8. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,066
    Likes Received:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    A couple of comments on expensive bespoke ventures...

    1. While I do agree to some extent with Newcomer's points...I think it is better that jfrater make "less-expensive" decisions now. Because he will fuck up...and at least those fuck-ups aren't BIG FUCK UPS. And in turn...as he grows his wardrobe and learns more...he can begin to develop a more personal style. It doesn't have to be all staple goods...he can branch out into those funky tweeds, etc. as he learns what works and what doesn't...what is too extreme, etc. And then...he will have a more nuanced feel and appreciation for his future ventures.

    2. You all greatly underestimate the cost of a Liverano suit. Antonio Liverano is easily amongst the most expensive bespoke tailors in the world...if not the most expensive and exclusive. Even if you go with the most basic navy or grey worsted suit...you need to know that it is exactly what you want...in the exact cloth and weight that you want...with all of the details that you want. If you don't know this going into the appointment...you may regret it later...even if the suit turns out great...simply because your mind has changed as you grow...and because its a lot to drop on a suit and you want to be assured it will work within your wardrobe for a long time...plus he would have to travel to Hong Kong to meet them which makes it even more expensive. That being said, Sr. Liverano is an expert and can advise on cloth and styling...and you know the suit will turn out great...but you still have to know what you want and the context of how it fits into your wardrobe.

    3. I agree with Claghorn that if he does what he is doing now...later on he will have a much greater appreciation if he does decide to venture to Sr. Liverano or A&S or any other of the world-renowned bespoke operations.

    4. In conclusion, let him play around and have fun and potentially fuck up now with less expensive...but still quality goods. That way, if and when he decides to enter the big leagues, he has practiced and is ready to be a pro.

    I say all of this based only on my own ventures with mto, mtm, and bespoke. If I could go back on some bespoke ventures...there are definitely things I would do differently as I have grown, learned, and changed.

    Btw...bespoke is not always the best option. My last two mto Formosa SC's from NMWA have come out absolutely fucking awesome and I know some other guys in this thread got the same ones and love them too. The fit is great (not bespoke perfect)...but easily passes this forum's tests...which says a lot...and easily passes in the general public. I am looking forward to the arrival of my third mto in a few weeks...and plan on ordering many more in the future...

    So...if you can find some less expensive MTO/MTM's that really work well for you...you should take advantage of them. They are easier...lighter on the wallet...fulfill your need for gratification much faster...and you can still have a lot of fun picking cloth's and stylistic details.

    And then you can do a couple of bespoke to fulfill your needs to be able to walk in a suit knowing it was crafted completely by hand only for you...that the fit is fantastic...and that you look awesome.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,048
    Likes Received:
    21,107
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    ^ This post has, how do you say, perspective.
     


  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,943
    Likes Received:
    31,117
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    PCK, that was spot on. I think thats what I was trying to say, but you did damn better job of it. Well done, sir. I definitely agree and think he should mess around with RTW, MTO, MTM blah blah, until he really knows how to walk into an appointment.
     


  11. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

    Messages:
    791
    Likes Received:
    241
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2013
    Unless you're willing to fly to Florence, Liverano has an exruciatingly long wait in addition to cost, especially if you need more than one fitting.
     


  12. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,895
    Likes Received:
    8,132
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    @JFrater I mentioned Harrisons cashmere as a joke. I hope that was clear altho I suspect it wasn't given you've been posting swatches. My advice FWIW is don't even think about getting a suit, MTM or bespoke, in cashmere. Cashmere trews are impractical: will bag at the knees, and be ridiculously warm. It's just not done. For a first commission go for a decent but not expensive wool. e.g. Dugdale's New Fine Worsted, or Fresco or any of the squillions of other Huddersfield options. Better still, if u go with KW use his stock options. A nice fitting first suit will be as much luck as good management.
     


  13. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Location:
    New Zealand
    

    I don't plan on getting that fabric - I was trying to get an idea about what people thought of the multi-colored texture on a fabric - obviously a no-go :)

    My first KW suit is in the process of being made and I used one of his swatches - the brown I posted a while back asking for opinions.

    Having said that - I do have a few meters of wool/cashmere/vicuña coming :) not from Harrison's though.
     


  14. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Likes Received:
    6,784
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    

    Perhaps this is the only thing that may be holding him back, since jfrater already admitted he's impatient. Am I right, @jfrater?

    PCK1's post is very sensible, but becomes irrelevant if money is no object. Then, why not directly build your sartorial knowledge by working with the best?
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015


  15. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

    Messages:
    436
    Likes Received:
    652
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    Location:
    New Zealand
    This is what I'm wearing today btw:

    [​IMG]

    Jacket: Chester Barrie
    Tie: Cappelli
    Shirt: liverano
    Pocket square: rubinacci (hat tip to @Pliny)
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by