Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Noodlers:

    Any of you have a donegal tie in a fit?

    I like the idea of it, but not sure how well it works in practice. Needs a good strong tweed coat, I think, tho might depend on how "speckly" it is.

    If you have a fit pic, care to post? Jfrater, if you sport one of those Vanda donegals soon, please post (and thanks for the natural lighting pics).
     
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    No need for tweed (pretty sure this is not 'in good taste' though):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    You also have a default risk. If Luxire goes bust or changes quality in that period you won't be so happy. What if the bespoke shirt needs another iteration, hence it taking an extra couple f weeks before you can send it?

    Anyway, one thing I've learned is that it doesn't matter whether it's 1.5bn or 1.5k, you make sure you don't take unnecessary risks. If a major bank has $500mm spare cash for a day, they'll make sure they earn that $500 interest on it for that day.

    Paying for the fabric in advance I can somewhat understand, but if he had simply paid that money in advance without receiving any service in return it would've been plain silly.
     
  4. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice, Elio. Cappelli?

    I prefer the second because of the flannel jacket. The first feels slightly city-country incongruent. Maybe it's the small scale patterns on both tie and jacket. I take it both fits are suits?

    Soft collar and colors in hank are nice with that second fit.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I own and like Tobacco Vanille but it's a very linear fragrance. Doesn't develop from the opening to the dry down so it gets a bit overwhelming at times. I prefer Tobacco Oud for the funky oud factor and it reminds me a bit of amber absolute.

    @TweedyProf both fits with the donegal tie are nice. You are just over analyzing
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I am pretty sure that neither Ian Fleming nor any of the wardrobe managers on any James Bond movie set were as nuanced about the clothing as most of the people here. It never ceases to humor me when we discuss "issues" with what he is wearing in the movies.
     
  7. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Thanks TP. First fit is illegal because I mix Donegal tie with fresco suit.
    Second is actually an SC made from rather coarse hopsack. Worn with mid grey flannel trousers, iirc.

    The tie is from Moessmer in Northern Italy.

    Stitchy, of course you are right, but it's part of the fun, isn't it?
     
  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @kulata
    Well, I did say just that. I just like the second more than the first and tried to articulate why.

    @in stitches , the striking thing about that movie was that a major designer was involved and yet they did such a poor job in dressing Bond. That was really surprising. If you go back and look at the scene where he is wearing a tuxedo, there is a gap in his collar that is as stable as his ability to bed his subordinates (I suppose that's old school sensibility there). Most of his suits had noticeable collar gaps.

    It's like TF reps came on set, said to Craig, "Oh you're a 42R, here's one off the rack and there you go..."
     
  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Speaking of movies, just saw Woody Allen's Magic in Moonlight or something like that. Beautifully tailored clothes: many three buttons, lower gorge, beautiful gun checks and light summer jacketing. Odd vests thrown in. Colin Firth, of course, can wear clothes quite well (and worth noting how much better TF did with Firth in other films than Craig).
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Elio, lol, I guess it depends on how you define fun. To me it is not fun to critique somebody who doesn't care much about the subject, or approaches it in a totally different way than you. At that point its just bashing, for me, which I dont find enjoyable. Nor do you, from what I have seen from your posts.

    I mean, there is certainly nothing wrong with pointing out the mistakes that we see in those ensembles, because it's the things that we notice, and because it is often good for new members who strive to look like that to understand why we here do not. What I don't find fun, or helpful, is when we get righteously indignant about it and approach it from a point of view where we are saying what a crappy job they did, and how could they make such foolish mistakes!. They didn't do a crappy job, because they were trying to achieve what we would be trying to achieve

    To that point. Tweedy, I don't think it was a disaster at all. Mostly because the appeal of his dress was geared much more towards the GQ crowd than anybody here. And to that effect, I think that the success was huge. Almost every regular dude that watched those movies thought that he looked immaculate and super cool and wished they could look like that. Do you think any of those people give a damn about collar gap, or even know what that is? Of course not. It wasn't about getting any specifics correct, it was about the overall vibe, and they nailed it.

    Like that scene on the train where he jumps in through the back of a torn off cart, and adjust his cuffs. Almost every person who watched that thought it was the coolest thing ever. None of them were looking at his collar or noticing if his shoes were or were not appropriate with the city suit. It's just a totally different approach than we hear take. And I am totally cool with that.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  11. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Uhmmm, yeah, I think there's some misunderstanding here. Bashing is no fun, but discussing the finer points of a certain fit to great length with geeks here on SF, while the person who's wearing it IRL doesn't care, is rather funny to me. That being said, since I stopped watching Bond after Roger Moore, I had to Google a bit, but this is pretty horrible:

    [​IMG]

    Let the bashing begin... [​IMG]
     
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    They say it's due to him gaining too much muscle, hence the suits that had been made already didn't fit anymore, and they had no time to replace the old ones.

    It a silly excuse, because that doesn't really happen in other movies. The tab collar was also an odd choice for a spy that's not supposed to stand out too much.

    EDIT: those outfits you posted are awesome, Tweedy. I'll have to watch that movie sometime soon.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  14. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Just a brief aside about the most recent Noodler project, @jfrater:

    First, I think that the progress has clearly been favorable. Especially in regards to shoes and accessories, and, in general, coherent combinations.

    However, I cannot help but feel like it is necessary to alter his "game plan" a bit more, as suggested by SB a few days ago, IIRC. In a lot of regards, the suggestions that have been given to him have been the same as those given to Noodles. But I think that Noodles and jfrater are in two very different situations, for three reasons--(1) their geographic location, (2) their spending power, and (3) their "shape."

    Regarding "shape," I think that Noodles is going to be a whole lot easier to fit off the peg, while jfrater is a much better candidate for bespoke. Noodles looks great in the RTW that you have put him in--far better than I--but I think jfrater is a much better candidate for bespoke. Not an insult, just a fact of life. I have big hips, a huge back, and shitty posture. I don't look like Murl, I need help to approach that.

    Regarding spending power, well, it is clear that jfrater has a bit more disposable income. I do not think it is necessary, or even necessarily prudent, to recommend some of the more budget-conscious (but excellent) options on SF, i.e. Luxire, or Kent Wang. If Vox was a newby, I doubt any of us would recommend him going down this route. This is not to say anything of the value of some of the SF AVs, I shop almost exclusively with affiliated vendors. But jfrater has a ton of basics, and I think he could really use some things that just fit extremely well. I think that some of the suggestions so far, although in better taste, are, by and large, side grades rather than upgrades.

    Which brings me to my final point. If jfrater is willing to buy L&L, or something of that ilk, why are so many different options recommended? What about taking a trip to Sydney and getting measured with P Johnson? Some of the best dressed persons on this board wear P Johnson. I think it would be a much better option than shipping a bunch of stuff to and from NZ, hoping that something will fit properly. I think a skilled tailor would be the best thing for jfrater, so that he can really understand how things should fit on him.

    TLDR, no more spending money on things that may or may not fit, take the opportunity to get something superlative, and potentially be one of the top dressers on the board. I would KILL to be in your situation. If you are going to Florence on vacation later this year, wait. Pick out some fabrics. Get suggestions on styling. Carpe that diem.

    That is just my 2c.

    Also, and addendum, I don't really care for that navy / rust twill or maybe sharkskin Harrison's weave. And I wonder how it would even make up with trousers? Just remember, similar to putting a dab of paint on the wall... that kelly green may look alright when it is a splotch on the wall, but you may change your mind when you have a big, green, room.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2015
  15. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    IIRC, Carmina did the shoes for Magic in the Moonlight.
     

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