Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. WhereNext

    WhereNext Senior member

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    Jfrater: That looks great to me.
     


  2. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I LOL'd.

    BTW, I came across that rarest of rare second-hand finds today: A staple three-piece suit in a short size. The only things holding it back from full-on grail are the pants with a bit less rise than I would prefer and not enough length to get a good cuff. Even better, it fills the hole left last year when I LuxeSwapped a similar suit in a larger size which no longer fit me.

    :slayer:
     


  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  5. ryoanji

    ryoanji Member

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    I have just purchased my first suit, it is from Jil Sander and Uniqlo collab re-released last fall. There were a few things that concerned me about the fit and I posted in the tailors' thread for a feedback.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/...-and-alteration-suggestions/5430#post_7645258

    I got a response from TweedyProf who seem to largely confirm my fear that it doesn't really fit me stylistically. In particular, the pants are way too tapered and jacket button stance is on a higher side (besides being too full in the waist). One thing he suggested me to post here and see if you can direct me in my search for more appropriate suit. Or, at least help me with the direction to pursue.

    If you look at the pictures in tailors' thread, you will notice that I am really tall (6.2"), very slim with quite a broad shoulders (~41 chest) and narrow waist (~30). So, I am looking for a suit with slim cut, proportionately large lapels, fuller cut in the trousers, lower button stance. Unfortunately, most of the stuff that I find in my price range in slim cut, has none of the above plus jackets on the shorter side. I am on the budget and would prefer to stay within a few hundred dollars, definitely less then a thousand. I sincerely hope that MTM is not only option for me to go. I am in Bay Area if that helps. Thank you so much!
     


  6. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Your heads-up on that discount is what piqued my interest in the first place.

    But I must admit that the Vass love from MF, Murl and others has convinced me to re-sheath my plastic sword and give some further consideration to Magyar cordwainery.

    jfrater, that is spot-on. Your progress amazes me. Now, go and scour your extensive wardrobe for similarly inspired combos. I bet there's at least 10,000 different ones in there.

    With your height, shoulders and drop, I would suggest that you follow SpooPoker - both his own fits, which he used to post regularly here (and easy enough to find them via the forum tools), and his LuxeSwap thread and site (see Industry Insiders panel in the right margin).

    From what you've specified above, you're about Spoo's size and shape. Shoot him a PM with your garment measurements and he might have something just right for you, generally at a very reasonable price (although you may have to bid at auction via his eBay site).
     


  7. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Here are some of the Vass shoes on their Italian lasts which have caught my eye:


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Nothing too shabby in that bunch.
     


  8. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Honestly I'd love to make a trip to Hungary just for some sweet sweet Vass. They are beautiful shoes and as much as I like CJ they just seem a level more hmm ethereal.

    Jfrater that's a really good combination. Good job.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015


  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    These photos of the Vaaaaaaaash and G&Gs really do them a disservice. The photos posted by members are usually much better than these.
     


  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Yeah, those pictures do suck. Not the U or K lasts, but they are beauties:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I just emailed Skoak to MTO the same Dovers @Newcomer posted a few pages ago. I'm super excited.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015


  11. tv2177

    tv2177 Senior member

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    Not sure if this is the right thread to post the question, but I do need some advice on improving my business wardrobe.

    So I am up to grab two suits for under $2500 and I am currently thinking about Ring Jacket Model 184, RLBL Antony, Southwick suit from Epaulet, and MTM by KW, what are your gents' priority on these brands, and what are some other suggestions?

    I have been reading a lot about the canvass construction, but cannot understand the difference between full and half, namely, does it look very different and worth the extra $?

    Also, my only suit right now is Jcrew's Ludlow which I bought it on sale and it's their worested wool in navy, but it actually looks a bit grey IRL. Now, for the two suits I am going to buy, should I buy 2 navy, or 1 navy and 1 grey? For grey I am leaning towards medium grey for versatility, is that the right direction?

    Thanks in advance!

    p.s. if this is the wrong thread to ask, can someone point me to the right thread for an answer?
     


  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Murlsquirl also has quite an impressive drop. His favored suits (Eidos Lorenzo and Formosa) are not budget items tho. But he might have some thoughts for you on RTW that would work.

    @Murlsquirl
     


  13. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Yeah, we are pretty similar in size. You need to find somewhere that you can order seperates (trousers and jacket). Take a look at Benjamin from eHaberdasher. The 40 or 42L might work for you and if they have the trousers in stock, they will let you swap sizes to a smaller waist.

    I wish I had more options, but I haven't really done much exploring. I have expensive tastes because this is really a passion/hobby for me, not a necessity for work.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015


  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @ryoanji

    That's good advice, it seems to me. I think the Benjamin is full canvas, made in Italy. I had considered it once a few years ago, though never tried one on. It is worth a look. Also, Cox's suggestion of Spoo and his auctions might be a good way for you to score something of high quality at a reasonable price, with Spoo's recommendations and advice.

    One last thing you should think about: I'm not sure what line of work you are in in academics, but I wouldn't fault someone who came to an interview in an odd jacket/trousers. So, a navy blazer and mid gray pants might be something you should strongly consider and would obviate the problems you face of matching a suit to your build. Would make your life much easier.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015


  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Believe it's half canvass, but still a good deal.
     


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