Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    No kidding. The Tumblr is "alievens", but there isn't any info on who they are. Only a handful of posts, all beautiful stuff. If you find out, let me know.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  2. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Love. Collar could use more roooolll tho.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  4. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Yeah, shirt collar is weak... but that suit!

    Stuff is awesome.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  5. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Only have bathroom pics since I'm travelling but I like this fit and jacket.

    [​IMG]

    That tweed suit is amazing indeed.
     


  6. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    No, no, no. Get the T107233-G from the second batch, have it made into a suit, and bask in the same breathtakingly effortless and stylish sprezzatura as Lino's buddy:

    [​IMG]

    Just kidding. [​IMG] Go with 2059, 2060 or maybe 2065. Oh, and consider getting KW to make it as a 3-pc (if that's an option).
     


  7. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Good lord that is awful! I was planning on getting a 3 piece at a later time so I can make the first suit more casual.
     


  8. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    OK, moar black shoe noodlings.

    I split my work between Melbourne and Sydney these days and have crashpads (with storage space for clothes) in both cities.

    I've split up my wardrobe between the two places and am duplicating certain essentials so that I don't have to tote heavier/bulkier items in my luggage all the time.

    This process is just about complete, but black shoes are a staple item of which I only own one decent pair (Carmina calf oxford brogue wingtips on Rain last). I do have a pair of black Carmina lizard monkstraps, but these are not really workwear, are they.

    I also have a G&G urge which has been building for some time. So anyway ... what's the GNAT groupthink on these:


    St James II, MH71 last -
    [​IMG]

    Oxford, TG73 last -
    [​IMG]

    Personally I find the St James II to be better balanced. Yes, its decoration is more florid and therefore less CBD, but I find the chiselled toe of the Oxford to be a little extreme.

    I can get away with either of these at work, so my decision can be on purely aesthetic grounds.

    Wifey actually thinks I'm better off getting the St James II in a fancier colour like Vintage Rioja. However, I already have a pair of these in the pipeline:


    [​IMG]

    ...which has my burgundy brogued chisel-toed oxford itch pretty well scratched, I would have thought.

    Feedback welcome, including black-shoe hate (where elegantly expressed).
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015


  9. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    Get the St. James II (hopefully pre-2015 pattern). It's G&G's flagship, and the best balanced adelaide.
     


  10. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    ^ This.
     


  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Those G&Gs are nice, but a bit overpriced for Goodyear welted shoes. In that price category you should really go for hand welted. Check out Vass.
     


  12. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    OK, I hadn't really paid much attention to Vass, as I found most of what I'd seen a bit chunky. I realise of course that many people prefer this aesthetic but it's not really my thing.

    Having checked their website, I did find some sleeker lasts. This one is nice, and quite close to the G&G St James:

    [​IMG]

    Any idea of price? (I can email them but wouldn't expect a response immediately.) PM me if you wish to keep such mundanities off the main board.

    I still think the G&G looks better, and while I appreciate the extra skill level and exclusivity of hand-welting, G&G have their fiddleback sole which is a thing of beauty.

    The other issue would be leather quality. I'd appreciate any comparative feedback although I would expect they are both on par.
     


  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I don't have any Vass at the moment, but when it comes to construction they're supposed to be far superior. Read the shoemakers thread for example. There's also a whole thread about Vass on SF. I'm sure you could find all the info you need on there.

    To be honest, I don't find the leather quality on my G&Gs to be as impressive as the price suggests. Can't tell much difference between the leather of my Carminas and my G&Gs. I kinda bought into the internet hype, which was a mistake. I bought them for around EUR450 at the sale though, which I'd say would be a fair price for them. JL/EG/G&G are all overpriced when it comes to construction quality. If you like them for the design that's fine, but don't buy them for the 'quality'.

    Anyway, Vass is EUR420 for standard shoes. I believe MTO is 590. If you think the fiddle back waist is worth the EUR700-800 difference, go ahead and get yourself some G&Gs. I quite like Vass's original lasts, but their newer and more Italian ones are very nice as well:

    [​IMG]



    http://www.vass-cipo.hu/Arlista/VassCipoArlistaEng.pdf
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015


  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
     


  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For hand welted shoes, must they always be sent back to the factory to be resoled or does your cobbler use a machine for subsequent resoling or do it by hand as well?
     


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