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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. roquesoon

    roquesoon Senior Member

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    PSA to Noodlers - Exquisite trimmings has some great deals on Drakes squares in the sale section. Deduct VAT for non EU residents, and 10% SF discount, and the price is gonna be hard to beat. Whole bunch of nice wool/silk ones...
     


  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I don't consider spotted hanks to be statement pieces, but I guess YMMV.
     


  3. jfrater

    jfrater Senior Member

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    And I will second that with a quick reminder that bespoke-england has 35% off all Gaziano and Girling shoes at present (it isn't mentioned on the site but I was emailed about it after I ordered and given a refund).
     


  4. PCK1

    PCK1 Distinguished Member

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    If you like the Liverano cut...I would highly recommend seeking them out and working with them. Don't try to kop alternatives that look like it. It's not the same.

    His bespoke is the top of the top of the top.

    And considering how much you've spent just by reading the past three or four pages...I think its safe to say you can afford it and you'd be doing yourself a favor by investing in quality.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Wasn't talking about the spotted hanks. You said he doesn't need stuff he can easily mix and match. I say everyone needs that, regardless of wardrobe size, especially people who are still learning how to dress well. In fact, having an extremely large wardrobe of random items might make it even more difficult to dress well.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    By this I mean that not everything has to go with everything. He likes variety. He likes color. He likes pattern. Giving him useful advice requires factoring those things into our recommendations. A large wardrobe of interchangeable stuff seems unlikely to tickle his funny bone.
     


  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    I'm just saying he should have BOTH given the image he wants to capture.

    As for Liverano & Liverano; I'd advocate a bit more practice before jumping into the deep end. For a variety of reasons, but amongst them the greater appreciation for what he'd be getting.
     


  8. jfrater

    jfrater Senior Member

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    That is true and the reason I am going to do the Kent Wang thing first. The options I am referring to are to help me understand the differences between full canvassed, half canvassed, padded shoulders, etc. so I can make the right decisions when I get to Liverano and Liverano. Fortunately Kent Wang has lots of choices so I can try to get an idea.
     


  9. jfrater

    jfrater Senior Member

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    On a slightly different note - these are some fabrics I really quite like - I was contemplating these for my first MTM Kent Wang stuff. Can I get opinions please?

    Two piece suits made of the following fabrics:

    [​IMG]

    Second row:

    TRS802060 (french blue textured)
    TRS802059 (Chocolate textured)

    Jackets made of the following:

    [​IMG]


    second row:

    T107230-G (blue and red check)
    T107228-G (red chocolate check)

    Last row:

    T107234-G (brown check - wool/silk/linen)
     


  10. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    If you want casual and Italian, get the widest lapel, unpadded spalla camicia shoulders, light full canvassing, 3 roll 2 notch lapels, patch pockets, rounded (barchetta) chest pocket, brown horn, dark brown corozo or smoked MOP buttons, double vented, 3 sleeve buttons, pick stitching, high rise flat front or single reverse pleated trousers with 2" cuffs. If you want you can go for side adjusters over belt loops. I prefer side adjusters, but it's up to you.

    All these options combined will give you a casual Neapolitan-ish suit. Make sure you pick a casual fabric to match. A navy flannel or fresco would be a good first option, depending on which seasons you want to wear it.

    Getting a nice KW suit depends on you knowing how a suit should fit. Read the good taste on SF for reference. Make sure there's ample room in the chest, no shoulder divots and the jacket is long enough to cover your behind. For the trousers, make sure the rise is high enough, somewhere close to your natural waist, and the legs aren't too skinny or baggy. Tell Kent you like the Liverano style, that should help as well.
     


  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    2060: amazing and will work for a blazersuit configuration (soft shoulders, two patch pockets). It'll make a nice casual suit.

    2059: same as above, though you might get the chest pocket patched to really countrified the rig (it is brown, after all)

    Already said I liked that blue w/ red check. The brown is sort of uninspiring to me. Unless it makes your heart sing, I'd wait until you find a fabric that really speaks to you. (And maybe that does, in which case, go for it!) I like the last brown option you mentioned a bit more.

    But make sure to go one or two at a time, as each iteration will be better than the last
     


  12. jfrater

    jfrater Senior Member

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    What do you think of the fabrics I listed above as regards your comments here?

    Also - would you suggest limited or extensive pick stitching?

    [​IMG]
     


  13. jfrater

    jfrater Senior Member

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    I am almost certainly going to go for the blue with red check - I love it.

    Thanks for the suggestion on the 2059 chest pocket - I was planning to do patch pockets on everything except the chest pockets but I will on the brown as you suggested.

    Perhaps I will go for two jackets and one suit to start with - so as to get a better fit on future suits.

    Do you recommend the spalla camicia on the suits and jackets or a plain unpadded?
     


  14. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Don't go for that one just yet. Get the french blue or chocolate textured one first. Go for limited pick stitching and spalla camicia if you want something casual.

    Start with just ONE suit. Seriously, ONE!!! Your fit needs to be dialed in first, which you do ONE iteration at a time. It's pointless ordering 3 things right now if you won't wear them 3 months from now because the fit is off.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  15. jfrater

    jfrater Senior Member

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    Okay - I'll go for the navy first - and see how that goes.
     


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