Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

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    I wonder if someone could link those recommendations? I recently met a tailor who I like and am toying with the idea of getting a sport coat made.
     


  2. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Regarding vests for a suit, anyone have any preferences for (1) number of buttons, (2) number of pockets, (3) flapped or unflapped pockets?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  3. Pingson

    Pingson Senior member

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    5 or 6 buttons (6 on me but I'm really tall)
    2 pockets looks best to me, but I've seen vests with 4 that look ok. It think they can be a little too busy with 4 pockets. Jetted pockets all the way, leave the flaps for the jacket....
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  4. Swangerman

    Swangerman Senior member

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    In my brief period of time here, I can attest to that.
     


  5. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

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    I'm still trying to get a feel for what I need to build a summer tie wardrobe. Most of my summer stuff is linen and linen-wool-silk with minimal lining. I've been looking at some old photos of unlined rolled grenadine finas from @in stitches in the Hober thread. The weave and construction seem nice for summer … lightweight, not too heavy or warm. I think grenadine in general works year around, but I like the idea of having an intentional summer feel … and I think this might be a good addition to a few linen and rough silk ties. Am I on the right path? It's easier for me to spot a fall-winter tie than a spring-summer tie, unless it's madras or gingham, or something crazy ;)

    Thanks!
     


  6. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I remember the first time I travelled in Europe after the introduction of the euro, the lack of a 1 euro banknote meant I ended up with what felt like ten pounds of coins on my person. Couple that with the unfamiliarity of the individual coins, of which some of quite different denominations seemed all too similar in size, and I was grateful to have a three-piece with a four-pocket vest. I used it like a cash register: bottom right pocket contained 1- and 2- euro coins; bottom left contained 0.50 coins; top right contained 0.2 and 0.1 coins; the top left contained the smallest.

    Pretty soon I was negotiating transactions like a native, and no one would know I was an American if I kept my mouth closed. This can have advantages.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Macjedi

    Do you mean untipped? I'd caution against unlined as you'd lose something to help the weave keep its structure. For untipped grens try ET. They come out to about 60-65 dollars before shipping, untipped and nicely hand rolled, made in Italy.

    Raw silks are nice but you have to decide if you like the nub. Sugar butch and Murl are on record as anti nub. Most of us are good with them. Shantung is more nubby than other raw silks.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2015


  8. macjedi

    macjedi Senior member

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    Ha! Thanks! Yeah, I don't what I mean ;). I think they were 4-fold lined and untipped. I think I did read something about a 7-fold unlined too, but haven't seen any pics. I haven't checked out ET. I need a custom length, but I'll check them out. Since I wanna go custom, I'm kinda limited to Sam Hober's selections, not that it's really that limiting :)
     


  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    jfrat, the spotted hanks can be great as long as you don't pair them with ties with small, repeating patterns. Given the depth of your bench, I imagine versatility isn't something that needs to be high on your list of criteria.

    To the others here, I think we should be counseling jfrat with that in mind. He doesn't need stuff he can easily mix and match. He just needs stuff that looks good.
     


  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ET has bespoke options. Henry Carter might too. But of course, Hober.

    I haven't explored the merits of 4 versus 3 fold grens. David Hober advocates for 4. Anyone weigh in on that difference?
     


  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'd say that a tie which isn't reserved enough to be super useful (not a bad thing...but you probably don't want too many of these) would have pronounced patterns AND pronounced texture, like the striped tie above. I prefer ties with muted patterns and pronounced texture, or vice versa. So like the reddish tie. Or muted and muted. Or plain and muted. Or muted patterns and plain texture (soporifics).

    They're just easier to use and easier to integrate into an outfit (as opposed to letting the tie dominate the outfit.
     


  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    He still needs to wear it though. Making an outfit from a wardrobe that only includes statement pieces can be pretty difficult, as we have seen. No matter how many clothes you have, if you can't make coherent combinations you'll still be dressed badly.
     


  13. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    I joined the London Lounge about a month ago but I never post there - I found the non-cloth forums to be very interesting because they talked a lot about other brands I like in terms of toiletries etc. I will start looking at the fabric threads too now though :) I think before I buy any fabrics I'll get some opinions here - I don't want to make mistakes by rushing in on getting stuff made.
     


  14. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Here's a few I was recommended to get you started:


    Ahh - someone else said that the other day on another thread I think - about my tie that had stripes AND texture. I know what you mean now.
     


  15. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Guys - can you give me some tips on this form from Kent Wang for my first suit made by them? I am particularly interested in feedback on such things as lining, structure, shoulder.

    http://www.kentwang.com/suit-options.php

    We are almost at the point of choosing options and fabrics.

    For reference - my favorite suits I have seen in pictures are Liverano. My favorite I own for wearing are Sartoria Santandrea, Brioni, Kiton.

    I would prefer my suits to be as far from business suits as possible as I have plenty of those. Obviously fabric will play a big part in that but style too.

    My shirts I have ordered from Luxire are soft collared - replicating Borrelli Royal and Liverano which are both very soft but nicely structured with a nice curve to them.
     


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