Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    Thank you guys for alerting me on Spier and Mackay. I have been having trouble finding well-fitting pants for under 180$ and I want to revamp my trouser wardrobe. I am going to buy 2 to start so I can assess the fit, but I was wondering which ones you guys would say are the "staples," that you find yourself reaching for the most.

    I am definitely ordering one of the ubiquitous mid-gray flannels:

    [​IMG]



    Grey Birdseye
    [​IMG]

    Navy "SoHo"
    [​IMG]

    Medium Blue Sharkskin
    [​IMG]

    Light Gray Sharkskin
    [​IMG]

    Any suggestions and recommendations are welcome.
     


  2. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Honestly? The only wool staples I've seen on Spier and Mackay's website are the gray flannels and the camel flannels.

    Birdseye is great for suits, sometimes okay for sportcoats, and always, always looks like orphaned suit trousers in an odd trouser fit. Ditto for the navy SoHo--navy trousers can be nice, but they need a bit of texture to differentiate them from mismatched suit trousers.

    That leaves sharkskin (another traditional suiting fabric). Others may disagree, but if you need a second pair of trousers right now for $55, they work okay. They are not a staple, however. I would even buy two pairs of the gray flannels and rotate them before buying the sharkskin.
     


  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I knew I liked you for a good reason.
     


  4. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    I appreciate the sound advice. I will probably go with the camel and gray to start. These will be worn at the hospital with a white coat so the context of a jacket is less vital for me. Also, I normally dress what would be considered casual on the CM spectrum on weekends (chinos/denim with an OCBD).
     


  5. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    Oxfords: The vamp is one piece. 1,3,4
    Derbies: 2,9, etc.

    Oxfords: Quintessential suit shoe in black cap toe. Always a bit more formal than Derbies.

    Derbie in black: Something I don't understand.

    Balmoral: A black oxford cap toe, no punch or brogueing. This is the one shoe you are missing. See this thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/362365/the-quintessential-dress-shoe-black-cap-toe-oxford
     


  6. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    I also, zerio loaverz.
     


  7. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Booooo all three of you. Loafers rock. They look so much more at home with trousers and a button down than a lace-up.
     


  8. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    I'm not missing it for long! I just bought this one - it will be here in two days:

    http://www.bespoke-england.co.uk/products/oxford-black-calf-1

    Thanks for recommending that thread - awesome shoes therein!
     


  9. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Okay - I really want a pair of St Crispin's - I haven't any. Given my collection above, what single most beautiful pair of St Crispin's would you recommend for the man that has everything? Note: for wear with suits or jackets - or both if you can't decide (two pairs in other words - an oxford and a derby).
     


  10. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Have you thought about one of the MTM guys like Meccariello or Bestetti? Given you already have a pretty full collection, you can start replacing pairs with one of these guys who will make last modifications to fit your foot and you can have fun with the creation of the design. Price really isn't bad when you consider how much you are already spending on shoes. My guess is you will spend less in the long run because you will be waiting longer for each pair.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/316071/antonio-meccariello-shoes/840_30#post_7639947

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/251332/riccardo-bestetti-bespoke-projects/1260_30#post_7609376
     


  11. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    My biggest problem right now is being in New Zealand - so I can't go to any of these places for measuring. I am going to Europe later this year though.
     


  12. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Both of them do it through email. Antonio Meccariello is in the process of making me a test shoe and I never left the comfort of my home in Boston. While my wife wasn't thrilled about measuring my feet, it should be a much better fit than any RTW. You provide measurements and pictures of your feet. They modify existing last and make you a test shoe. You receive the test shoe, try it for a period of time and then provide feedback so they can make any additional last modifications before making the final shoe.
     


  13. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Wow those are some beautiful shoes! Okay - I have emailed :) Thanks for the suggestion!
     


  14. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Camel moleskin vs camel flannel. Very similar? Essentially same usages I assume? Is flannel significantly better, or just slight different feel?
     


  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Cotton and wool never have the same use.
     


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