Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Maybe NM has some good undergarments! [​IMG]
     


  2. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Laziness >> Love. [​IMG]

    Your needs are almost the mirror image of the great Noodler. He had a very restricted style and wardrobe that needed expanding a bit; your wardrobe is very all over the place.

    Leaving aside the obvious need for more shoes that actually fit you, my biggest bit of advice is to first concentrate on figuring out how to combine your existing items together. You have quite a lot of stuff, that range in vibe from formal to FU. Take a top-down approach to audit what you have: think about how often you wear different kinds of outfit, and work out whether you have items in your wardrobe in appropriate proportions for those needs. My hunch is that you'll find you have more leery items than you have actual opportunity to wear them i.e. your wardrobe needs rebalancing.

    Once you know how much of each kind of item you need, decide which items you really love (for whatever reason) and want to keep and then post up small selections of the rest here for more specific advice on culling.

    When I changed my work a few years or so ago, I found that I needed to rebalance my wardrobe. I had lots of slick/City-esque items, but suddenly found myself needing a somewhat more casual wardrobe. It takes time to rebalance (I'm more or less there now), but the starting point is recognising what proportions you actually need.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014


  3. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    It looked like you already had one brown but you may want to nab another I'm just not sure what style. Here's my five from AE, well 4. Let the council be final before my suggestions though.

    1. Merlot AE Macneil - one of my favorites

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    2. Strand in Walnut

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    3. Something in suede maybe?
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    4. I don't like AE's Park Avenues ever since someone pointed out to me that their cap is tiny so I'll leave the picture blank but this spot is reserved for a black cap toe


    5. Chilli Delray

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  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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  5. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Pretty sure the cap on the Park Ave isn't tiny.

    The line isn't supposed to be halfway up the last.
     


  6. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Mimo, as much as shoes are my thing I'm may have to pass here. Budget too low and no experience with AE. I may however 'buy' fewer shoes and rec' them!
     


  7. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Are you sure she bought men's underwear for you? I've never heard of men's underwear without a hole in the front.

    It's a combination of the six eyelet design and the protruding welt on a less than sleek round toe last that really make the Park Avenue toe look short and stubby. Compare the AE (top) with a Carmina (bottom) on a similarly round toe last:

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  8. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    https://www.meundies.com/t/gender/men

    No fly zone.

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  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    quote name="jungleroller" url="/t/375309/noodles-good-natured-advice-thread/1755#post_6917789"]It looked like you already had one brown but you may want to nab another I'm just not sure what style. Here's my five from AE, well 4. Let the council be final before my suggestions though. 1. Merlot AE Macneil - one of my favorites [​IMG] 2. Strand in Walnut [​IMG] 3. Something in suede maybe? [​IMG] 4. I don't like AE's Park Avenues ever since someone pointed out to me that their cap is tiny so I'll leave the picture blank but this spot is reserved for a black cap toe 5. Chilli Delray [​IMG] [/quote]
    The Macneil or Delray are good choices, though I think some dark brown shoes are going to be very useful too. I don't think he needs any oxfords other than the one pair of black punch caps or stitch caps for when he needs maximum formality. 1. Macneil in merlot 2. Delray in chilli 3. Park Avenue or Fifth Avenue in black (only oxford he needs) 4. Mora 2.0 in brown (http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF2988_1_40000000001_-1_) 5. Patriot or some similar loafer in brown (can be a lighter shade potentially - http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF4906_1_40000000001_-1_) One out of 1, 2 or 5 could be replaced by something in suede (though AE's offerings in suede leave something to be desired). I think the dark brown monk works as an alternative suit shoe will being more casual.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014


  10. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Merlot Macneil is not a permanent item like I thought it was. I picked mine up at webgem and merlot is now permanent in strand and park avenue but not macneil, boo! You can still get it in burgundy cordovan if you don't mind spending more on shell - $650. Although you may be able to contact their seconds department/shoe bank and pick up some on discount. Seconds/Shoebank are sold on discount due to not passing their qc to be sold as firsts. Sometimes you can't even tell why, other times it's bad. You can return them but pay a restock of I believe $15. I've gotten two pairs of seconds and both are perfect but it's a gamble.

    Another option if you do like Merlot, you should btw, would be McAllister - I think it's a pretty formal shoe though.

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  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @luv2breformed

    Lots going on here and many good suggestions from the core commentators. I think it's your call how you want to proceed (I definitely I second/third the idea of not buying anything right now). I suggest you make a call about this. We need constraints people!

    Ties are a good place to start. To push that further, why not put together some coherent combos given what you have (you don't even have to put them on, just lay out jacket, trousers, tie, and square). Pick two jackets, pair them with a set of ties that you think might work and with appropriate hanks. You can put them on to get fit advice later (and you've been thoughtful of your combos in WAYWRN, if I remember). Awful ties can be donated/resold.

    Folks can then critique both the pieces individually and the combination, which I think would lead to a more holistically oriented conversation, one that would be more enjoyable.

    On shoes (and at the risk of undercutting Mimo's suggestion): I really am for getting fewer and better. AE's are good starting points, if you are on a budget and need something now. But I don't think you do, given your current work environment. The Carminas look to me clearly lovelier than the AE PAs (though the latter are fine if you need a cheaper option). So, of the two, I'd save for the Carminas (if you wait, you can get them close to the full price of an AE PA). Shoe mart recently cleared out its inventory and had them at $299 (some models are still left).
     


  12. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Speaking of shoes, any opinions on these? I have both a black and a brown.
    [​IMG]

    Made in Italy, our Gittens dress shoe is exquisitely crafted from calfskin leather and designed with a classic rounded toe.
    • Rounded-toe silhouette. Lace-up vamp.
    • Stacked heel.
    • Leather-lined with a padded insole.
    • Includes our signature twill duster bag.
    • Leather. Made in Italy.



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014


  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    If you really want to dress CBD, black/dark brown (preferably black!) catpoe oxfords is all you should wear, not derbies. Forget all the ties and suits, my first investment would be a decent pair of oxfords.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014


  14. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Seconded. You need bals.
     


  15. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Just like the staple suit/tie/etc conversation had here a staple rota of shoes has to be had.

    True with C & J I've busted Mimo's suggested budget here but that is not my intention, though you can get these if you shop around.

    You have to have suede. Here's a straight cap oxford (363 last Stitchy) and the Chukka which HAS to be unlined. I have the suede Hallam on 318 last and the Chukka 3 suede same colour yet they do different things for me. I have a lined Chukka in the colour here. Dressed up or down giving great contrast suede is a staple shoe.

    I would also respectfully suggest the Clifford as a full brogue oxford, great colour better with age and versatile.

    If you like some brogue but want to marry it up with a different look then the Selbourne gives that colour edge too. Works very well instead of the black if you lean that way.

    Finally, a whole cut in the Weymouth. I have black as pictured, and other whole cuts in brown. Some will not see the need for black in a stable, fair comment, I like the option. The whole cut though in any colour is a stunning piece of work.

    I'm not suggesting these are the ones to buy, just trying to suggest a view on some basic principles in a rota that will give unlimited options.


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