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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Thanks for that advice - I am pretty sure I have a 50mm lens - I'll give it a shot next time :)
     


  2. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Do I have enough shirts??[​IMG]
     


  3. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Yes. Assuming you won't wear pink, that's a nice rotation.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015


  4. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    u really r an Academic [​IMG] - so analytical. I'd call that a little bit fancy, so a little bit of an outlier, because the lines appear to have a shadow effect, or maybe a secondary, feinter line running alongside the main- can't quite make it out.

    The larger and more complex the plaid pattern the less business it is IMO .. so the smaller, finer and simpler (e.g. a micro-check or a graph check with fine lines) the plaid the more formal/biz it is.
     


  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    A2, I think it looks ok, but I also think that check is a bit country for that ensemble. It looks to be a double stripe, which veers to country, unless its just a blurry pic. I think that if it was single stripe micro check it would be better. But Im still not sure I would wear a check with that suit and tie.
     


  6. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Is this better?

    [​IMG]

    NOTE: ignore the slippers - I am at home for the rest of the day so no shoes :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015


  7. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    This about sums it up. I'd like to add that low contrast is more biz than high. Basically, the more a pattern tends to resolve to solid, the more formal it is, IMO.
     


  8. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015


  9. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Yep - bespoke 1985.
     


  10. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Held up well IMO Closed quarters, downward sloping gorge maybe a couple of cms more off the shoulder, but still presentable after 30 years.. 'classic and timeless'. I hope my latest commissions last like this.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015


  11. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Okay guys - here are my latest ties (bought before I started getting advice here - they just arrived). Which are the goers and which are the junk? They are mostly Drakes, Tie your Tie, and Liverano.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  12. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    You should see the lining - 100% perfect. It's like it was never worn actually. The fabric weight is amazing and it feels incredible to wear. It is undoubtedly better than pretty much every suit I have ever bought off the rack.

    Are you commissioning a Poole suit? If so, why did you pick them over the other tailors on SR?
     


  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think 1, 4, 7, and 9 will get a lot of wear.

    I like for various reasons--though they may be more difficult to wear--2 (especially) and 10.

    I find purple difficult to wear. I think large scale checks, like those in #11, always feel as if someone zoomed in on a pattern intended to be on a much smaller scale.

    Not a fan of the complex checks (12, 13), but I'll admit they have a place in S/S wear. Their busyness probably limits them to an all solid fit though.

    8 is more than presentable. I'm just not a fan of visible weaves (such as grossa grenadines) combined with patterns (which is why I sold my Hober SF club tie. It feels busy, with the weave embedded in the pattern. 6 may suffer this more as you have multiple stripes in multiple colors. Pure personal preference.

    5 is decent, though it doesn't speak to me. Never been a fan of the burgundy/gold combination, though I know it's a classic.

    I think my reason for disliking 3 is an interesting one--and perhaps instructive. The dots are a strongly structured pattern. The slubs are pure chaos. With the patterns overlayed on it, I find it creates a displeasing effect.

    It isn't a bad lot. Only a few that I would say definitely return, and several more you might really want to ponder before deciding they deserve a spot in your rotation.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2015


  14. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Regarding patterned dress shirts worn with a tie, Here’s one of Claghorn’s photos that I liked enough to save. What attracted me first, of course, was the novelty of Claghorn wearing a jacket that’s not blue [​IMG], but what ultimately appealed to me was the interplay between color, pattern, and texture here (if you enlarge the picture you’ll see that the jacket is herringbone) where, contrary to certain norms, the shirt is in some respects (specifically its pattern) the ‘loudest’ item in the top block and the tie is the ‘quietest’ (the least pattern and texture); so far as color goes, however, the tie is the ‘loudest’, so there’s a dynamic interplay between these different attributes.

    [​IMG]


    Does anyone here *not* like this fit?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  15. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Fantastic advice - thanks. Happily you chose pretty much my favorites. This is going a long way to helping me pick right in future
     


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