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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    No but I was 160 lbs in that pic.
     
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  2. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    @StanleyVanBuren like claghorn says, somewhere in the middle would be best, IMO. To me the YSL suit actually enhances the tall & thin look compared to the other fit you showed. I assume that is not what you want? Also, your trousers don't drape well because your legs are like () instead of ||
     
    2 people like this.
  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    @StanleyVanBuren

    I see what you're saying about the grey pants not hanging well. Have you considered going bespoke? It may be that you have an atypical way of standing, and hence need a special shape to your pants legs. @Despos can you comment for the education of this entire thread?

    But I also don't like the YSL pants. Too wide at the bottom. They seem to swallow up your shoes.

    Claghorn's suggestion for a middle ground is appropriate

     
    Last edited: May 5, 2015
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It looks like you might be slightly bowlegged. I think another member here, @Beatlegeuse , is also a bit bowlegged but has addressed the issue decently through MTM.

    I think the navy jacket is the best I've seen on you (and I think I've seen most, though feel free to post the collection here). Of everything you own, that would be the one I'd have Luxire copy.
     
  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Trying to alter this suit or having Luxire make a new one based on this is most likely going to end up in disappointment and a lot of money wasted. It's simply not a very flattering cut for you, and if the suit was made with the dropped right shoulder in mind, simply removing the padding will create lots of other problems.

    Either accept you'll have to get (in person, not online) bespoke if you want your suits to fit well, or start working out so that RTW will fit you better.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2015
  6. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I wonder what the difference in rise between those two pants is and if that's responsible for the difference.
     
  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    SVB, comparing the navy jacket is difficult because it's not just shorter, it also has open quarters. Disentangling which element is having the greater visual effect is difficult. I suspect that opening the quarters on the YSL would yield the greatest results.

    If you don't want to taper the pants below the knee, you must lengthen them until there's a break. A leg opening that wide just doesn't work with a zero or negative break. You'll look like the country mouse come to the city.
     
  8. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Senior member

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    Well, that one is Epaulet (made by Southwick) so I can always just order more of those and get a reliable fit every time if that's what I wanted, so I wouldn't risk the process of copying just to save a few bucks.

    Well I disagree about the cut not being more flattering, but I probably need to get it tailored before I'm going to convince anyone of that at this point. It's definitely an off-the-rack suit that was modified in the right shoulder as opposed to being designed that way to start, so it should be a simple enough fix.

    The YSL is definitely higher-rise, but I'll have to check by how much. Probably at least an inch though.

    Yeah there seems to be pretty good consensus in SW&D as well on the pants-lengthening, so I'm going to have that done for sure.


    Anyway, thanks everyone for all the input, I'll post results once I get the tailoring done and we'll see what everyone thinks at that point.
     
  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    NOT AS LONG AS THE PICS IN SW&D! That puddling nonsense doesn't look good on anyone. The one pic of '80s YSL is as long as you'd want to go.
     
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  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    WIWWFYAT (What I Was Wearing Five Years Ago Today)

    [​IMG]

    The only item I still own is the handkerchief...
     
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  11. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Nice idea for a thread! :)
     
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  12. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Senior member

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    Well good, that's the one that stood out to me anyway.
     
  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Beats mine by miles.
    I think I hold the title of "The Worst Dresser Before SF."
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2015
  14. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    It just seems weird to me that you would use this suit as a base, while you have things that fit you so much better. That navy jacket you showed is much nicer than this one, for example.
     
  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    5 years ago today...motorcycle trip to Yosemite. Only suit I owned at the time was my dress uniform.

    [​IMG]
     
    9 people like this.
  16. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    ^ Wouldn't have recognized you!
     
  17. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    ^It must be his brother with narrower shoulders.
     
  18. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I know....I get sexier with age!
     
  19. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    ^ LOL. Oldest fit pic - or something like it- that I could find, december 2002. Yes, I'm old...

    [​IMG]

    Satin burnt orange Armani tie [​IMG]
     
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  20. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Elioda,

    I don't hate it. In fact, I still wear a couple of shiny ties for evening and formal business wear, though I prefer a neat pattern. And that's a nice suit. But coffee with a whisky chaser?

    SVB, two more thoughts:

    - I have a similar problem with trousers, though slightly the other way: my calves are big and my lower legs stick out wider than my hips. Making trousers hang neatly for SF pics is hard. But not the end of the world either: when you're sitting or walking it matters little, though I'm sure a little experimentation will help.

    - I think that one reason when you look at the YSL jacket and feel happier is the shoulders, asymmetric or not. You have a long slim neck, like the rest of you, and although SF loves a spalla camicia and all, a more classic padded shoulder lifts your shoulders up a little visually, which suits you. It's a stronger, more imposing look, and why not? Cut both your pics off below the shoulders and you'll see what I mean.

    Higher buttoning points and slightly slim, tapered trousers are literally made to suit a tall slim fellow like yourself, so don't throw out the baby with the bath water. I think keeping those things while going for a classic, stronger jacket shoulder, might be where your sweet spot lies.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2015
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