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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Decent alignment at the gorge
     
  2. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Complete whimsy. I've had this suit for two years and never worn it, and this tie for a year and worn it once. Thought I'd wake my students up with a different look and also let these items get some fresh air.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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    Hey guys, just a quick question.

    How does Carmina suede compare to the likes of Alden, Vass, C&J, AE and Meermin etc...? I figure this is most neutral place to ask.
     
  4. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Based on all the brand new shoes you are selling, it seems like you may be the best person to ask. How does someone come to have four new pairs to sell at the same time?

    I can only compare Carmina suede with AE suede. The Carmina suede is significantly nicer.
     
  5. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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    i don't have any suede.
     
  6. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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  7. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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  8. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Senior member

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    So I am cross-posting this here from the SW&D WAYWT thread to get some "good natured advice" from this side of the fence on this as well. This is a YSL suit I picked up off ebay that just arrived today. I'd be happy to hear any and all thoughts you guys have on this one.

    This is straight out of the box with no pressing or tailoring as yet, so you'll see the jacket is wrinkled in a few spots. Besides being surprised/shocked how close this is right off the bat (tell me I'm wrong?), I do notice a couple things: (1) it seems the prior owner also had a bit of a dropped right shoulder, but more so than I do as there is extra shoulder padding causing the right shoulder to not sit quite right, which hopefully my tailor can even out a bit; (2) despite how it looks in the photos it could stand to be taken in at the waist a bit; (3) it comes with a vest but I think I prefer it as a 2-piece. I've included vest photos as well (see below); (4) pretty sure this thing is poly or some kind of poly blend, but if my tailor is able to work out the remaining niggles this will be a great blank canvas to send to Luxire to have copied; (5) I picked the wrong shoes, but they are dark and hard to see anyway, but neither suede nor wingtips was the right choice -- happy to hear suggestions of course.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Jacket could also be a half inch shorter, especially as your torso is so slim, and the trousers could perhaps be tapered a little, and longer. Both of those things will improve the proportions, I think. But it looks great, as two or three piece. In the latter form, dandy it up a bit with a brighter PS/tie combo. As for shoes, a smooth light tan derby, perhaps? Spectators for the three piece version. Because.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2015
  10. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I don't like the way those shoulders look on you. You certainly need some structure, but not like this. Perhaps a slightly less padded and roped shoulder would look better?

    Because quite a bit needs to be changed I'd hesitate sending this suit to luxire. People who've sent in perfectly fitting suits got less than stellar results, so I'm wondering what would happen if you need to change this much.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  11. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    @StanleyVanBuren what @mimo said, and in addition to that: since you're considering using it as a base for a Luxire suit to copy, I'd suggest to move the button a little bit higher in combination with a slightly shorter jacket. The buttoning point is very low now, even below the waistline of the jacket. Which is why, to me, the suit looks a lot better as a 3 piece.
    I quite like the low gorge on you as it breaks up the vertical lines nicely, but I'm not a fan of those downward, sad looking collar points. Since it's a French style anyway, perhaps Luxire can make you a fish mouth lapel, Parisian style:

    [​IMG]

    And that shoulder pad is too obvious, better reduce that a lot.
    Nice looking suit overall. Good retro vibe without looking to dated.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I like the suit a lot boxy shoulders and all. It has definition and the lapel was YSL's signature style at some point. I would defer with the opinion thus far about the lengt, you have longer arms so it balances your proportions. I'd nip the waist to get rid of the excess fabric near the midsection and won't taper the pants. The pants look great.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2015
  13. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    SVB, I mostly agree with mimo's suggestions. The pants are too short and too wide at the hem, but only slightly for the latter. Shoulders are too padded, the gorge is a bit too low, quarters are way too closed. Some waist suppression would do nicely, and it looks like you're swimming in the vest. Is the buttoning point in fact below your natural waist? I'm not as confident about that as Elio.

    Overall, I'm not sure this is a good candidate for alterations, let alone a base for Luxire.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  15. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Nice trading with you @Mr. Six ! [​IMG]
    Yours is on the way!
    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  16. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi guys,

    We will be going to Pitti Uomo 88 in June and was hoping to get some input on what you all would be interested in seeing.

    We will be taking lots of pictures, meeting a lot of people and looking at a lot of new collections. If you'd like to give us suggestions on what you'd be interested in seeing, please do so here.

    Cheers!
     
    2 people like this.
  17. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Senior member

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    Kind of surprised by these comments actually, since it sounds like the direction you're telling me to head is backwards. Most of my suits have shorter jackets, higher buttoning points, and more tapered trousers and those features are precisely what I was trying to get away from with this. I understand if you guys aren't totally up on my post history, though.

    To explain then, I think the YSL suit is far better in all of these categories, for my overall body shape at least, which is a combination of thin with a short torso and long legs. More tapered trousers never seem to fall/drape well on me, but the full leg on the YSL suit is hanging nearly perfectly. The buttoning point is exactly at my natural waist, and the jacket length balances out my short torso/long legs better than the shorter jackets do. Consider these two side-by-side:


    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I can't figure out why the grey pants don't just hang properly. None of my pants that are this slim do. It's a heavy fabric too so there should be no reason why this is the way it is other than maybe I have odd-shaped legs, but if so, I don't know what the solution is other than to just opt for a full-cut leg and be done with it.


    I do dig the signature YSL lapels and they were one of the features that drew me to this suit. I definitely still think the jacket needs to be brought in at the waist, so that will happen for sure. Same with removing the excess padding in the right shoulder. It may be hard to tell from these photos that it needs it but I think I will have him slim the arms just a bit as well. I'm always concerned with losing movement though, especially across the upper back. I'm pretty flat-chested so most jackets fit me loose in the chest, but then my tailor solves this by taking material out of the back panel leaving me with no flexibility and unable to stretch my arms forward at all. But I think the YSL style lends itself to a nipped waist without it looking out of proportion if the chest is still generous enough to allow some flexibility.

    As far as the pants go, I think messing with them is going to screw up the style, the fit, the drape, etc. I could see letting them out maybe half an inch in order to get some amount of break but even that I'm not sure about. I'm worried that if I do that then it's going to screw up the clean lines. What do you guys think about having slanted cuffs instead? I could try asking my tailor to let them out half an inch in the back only. The other option is just getting shoes that work better with the full-cut legs.
     
  18. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think a middle ground between this and your previous stuff is what they are imagining.
     
    4 people like this.
  19. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    I found an old pic. Just 2 years ago. I am tempted to post on WAYWRN.
    [​IMG]
     
  20. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ Do you have a mullet in that pic?
     

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