Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    My apologies, I only read the beginning. As much as I'd like, I don't have time to read all 100+ pages. I do like how this thread turned out though!

    Thanks for all the advice, guys! I'm surprised that both Spoo and Stitchy used to own that a pink cashmere tie! I have to say, that outfit looks fantastic.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014


  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    NEW PROJECT!

    LUV2BREFORMED
     


  3. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Thanks, MF. Go kop one! :)

    Note though, Spoos is slightly different and Atollini not Drakes.

    jrd - sold mine on LS.
     


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Move over, Rudals, there's a new project in town. :D
     


  5. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Well, let's get started on it! Who wants to be the first?
    I am not sure if it is a plus or a minus to already have this much(?) in your closet.
    I hope this turns into another success story. I'll shut the heck up and stop hogging this thread...for now.
     


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    L2BR seems like a thoughtful guy in his WAYWRN posts. Looking forward to this discussion.
     


  7. mothon

    mothon Senior member

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    NMWA has the color I posted.
     


  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @luv2breformed, there's a lot here to talk about:

    - Shirts - I think that your shirts are by far the weakest part of your wardrobe. Too many that are (sorry to be harsh) just not that attractive or versatile. Solids, simply non-fancy stripes and basic checks are your friends. Your instinct to get more blue shirts is correct. As far as rough fabrics, I assume you mean something like oxford cloth. That will go well with tweed.

    - Jackets - Some are a bit fun for my taste, but I tend to be a bit more conservative with most of my jackets. If you have some that you don't wear a lot, particularly the louder ones, consider replacing them over time with more staples. Given your dress code at work and interest in academia, you don't have to worry about being CBD. I can go into more detail here depending on how much critique you want. The navy odd jacket is definitely a staple addition. I would consider two eventually (one for summer, one for fall / winter).

    - Suits - Hard to glean a lot from the picture, but you seem to be set here. You don't have to wear a suit that much and so I'd say 5 is more than enough unless you have some major seasonality issues to address.

    - Trousers - You seem to have a decent size selection here. Brown wool trousers can be nice and would be a decent addition. In general, I think shades of grey are the most useful to have as your staples (especially when you have chinos in various shades of tan). Possibly consider moleskins for the winter.

    - Shoes - You need a pair of black cap toes. They'll come out with a suit for weddings, charity events, funerals and other occasions where you want to be formal. A simple stitch cap or punch cap in black is really all you need. Seeing as you do not need to wear suits often, I would not bother with brown or burgundy stitch cap or punch caps. You would be better off with monks which can go with a suit and also work with an odd jacket and trousers. Brown and burgundy are more casual colors than black, so focus on getting shoes in these colors that you can wear with a variety of outfits. Also consider loafers as a casual option. Your shoe collection should reflect the level of formality you need on a typical day for the most part as long as you generally have your bases covered.

    - Squares - White linen works well for suits but I do not care for it with odd jackets. Check out Manton's thread on "Square Fail" for some general principles on picking out pocket squares.
     


  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On L2bR

    To constrain things, maybe a clear question: what of my current stuff would allow me to look great on the four to five times I can wear a SC and odd trousers? I assume with tie/PS?

    Otherwise too much to deal with to get focused answers.
     


  10. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Too many light colored jackets, IMO ...

    They are less versatile and harder to successfully pull off - overall really lacking in the F/W area.

    I think most of those shirts are quite poor. I can't even see many jacket/shirt combos possible here.

    Trousers - Pretty easy revamp if you need one. Light gray, mid gray, tan/beige, charcoal, dark brown.

    If I had to guess, you just bought singular items that caught your eye which has now left you with no semblance of a cohesive wardrobe.
     


  11. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Updated with current ties. Repost here:

    Ties rotated and uploaded at maximum size per jrd request below:

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    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014


  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ You have some decent ties and some ugly ties in that mix. Could you please post some bigger pictures that are properly rotated? Too much work to view those.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014


  13. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Quote:
    Great stuff already, guys. Perhaps we should start by answering what is salvageable? Maybe slimming down this mess a bit will help to recognize obvious holes that simply never got filled? Also, if I can figure out how to work my signature, I will keep a running "to kop" list based upon everyone's recommendations. Now to add some of archibald's suggestions to it . . .
     


  14. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Tie post above now rotated and reuploaded to maximum size per jrd's request.
     


  15. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Start by focusing on your biggest problem areas which to me are your shirts, then jackets and shoes. I'd slowly week out shirts that are not solid (white, light blue, pink, lilac or ecru) or some sort of subtle stripe or check pattern. Color is fine (though one can overdo it) but stick to solids and classic patterns. Get rid of things that do not fit the bill. With odd jackets, I do agree that you need some darker odd jackets especially in your fall / winter wardrobe. A dark brown tweed would be nice and any navy odd jackets you get will work here too. When buying odd trousers, think about whether they would go with light to medium grey trousers. If not, seriously consider moving on. Brown and tan are also good odd trouser colors if you like variety and cream can work in the summer. If you have a sense of what odd trousers you will be wearing with tailored jackets, it makes it easier to figure out what jackets work in your wardrobe. Navy is a source of endless debate on here (navy trousers worn with a jacket) but I'd say you have bigger fish to fry than worrying about that at this point. As for shoes, you need brown shoes (burgundy is not necessary but if you like them, get some) and should start thinking about how to fill out your shoe wardrobe.

    With ties, I would spend some time reading the earlier parts of this thread to get a sense of what is tasteful. Generally you want solids and subtle patterns in conservative colors (blue, dark green, burgundy, brown, black). Some pink, lilac and other brighter colors are okay but they should not be your staples. I also don't love brighter colored ties with most tweeds and think that darker and more textured ties tend to work better with odd jackets. As a homework assignment, I suggest you go through your tie collection and come up with the 15 that you think are most conservative and 5 that you think may not be conservative but you still like. You don't have to get rid of every other tie but the process of doing this will probably help you narrow things down and we can get a sense of what your instincts are like on this. As it is, you have way too many for a good critique. If you are wearing a lot of light blue shirts, you want darker ties as your tie should be darker than your shirt.
     


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