Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I am thinking about ordering size 34/50. The measurements seem in line with my measurements.
     


  2. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    I'm personally still comfortable ordering from HY. I recently bought two pairs of pants and had no trouble with the return. (Well no response to my email but I already have his return address).

    Murls - no major loss on the pants as they'd come with a zip fly instead of button fly anyways.
     


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sorry, late to the game, but all for this point. Navy hopsack is solid and useful, and if I could do MTM with Eidos, I'd go with that first just to dial in the fit (though you have a good start with the OTR Lorenzo).

    That said, the brown/navy guncheck is nice and that was made up in the Lorenzo wasn't it...so what if it's 2014, that was just days ago?

    Also, green deserves some thought if it's not too bright and has a slight variability in color (is it somewhat mottled). I've come round to green. This is for the second jacket :)
     


  4. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    What tagged pants size Formosa fit you best?

    I'm a 32 USA and 34 Italy in HY and the tagged 50 Formosa pants (comes with a 48 jacket) fit me quite well.
     


  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Noodles, that wool/silk has some synthetic in it, if I remember correctly. Just check, if that matters to you.

    Damn, just got the NMWA sale notice as I typed. Ok, see you for a few minutes...
     


  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Noodles - Get the flannel trousers if anything. Donegal is not versatile enough for someone starting an odd jacket and trouser wardrobe and the nailhead is really more of a suiting fabric IMO. As for odd jackets, pairing odd jackets with light grey flannel trousers is pretty much an idiot-proof process (not trying to be snarky, light grey just goes with most things). Starting with blue jackets is a smart way to go, but eventually you'll be able to branch out into browns, greens, etc.
     


  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I am a 50R Formosa jacket and the trousers that come with that are a bit baggy and loose. So I taper and take in at the waist a bit.
     


  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The "Lorenzo" trousers have a longer rise and are higher waisted IIRC. They have one pleat too, so I don't know if that appeals to you.
     


  9. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    34 for USA and 36 Italian, Noodles.
     


  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Brown Tie Discussion

    I don't want to harp on this too much, but I sat down at a computer and have some time to compose thoughts. I think the value of brown ties and whether one thinks that brown and burgundy ties both belong in a 5 tie wardrobe depends on the objective one has for said wardrobe and the sort of clothes one most often wears. Basically, if you are shooting for maximum versatility (you have 5 ties and want something that works in any circumstance), I think brown and burgundy are too similar to both make sense. Brown does some things a bit better than burgundy and vice versa, but they are close enough to each other that I'm not sure there is a lot of value in having both early on.

    My 5 tie wardrobe (target being maximum versatility) would be black grenadine (funerals God forbid, looks smart with navy and grey suits, in a pinch can work with a navy blazer), navy solid (works with grey suits, if textured can work with some odd jackets when needed), silver / grey grenadine (stand-in for wedding tie, great with a navy suit, good with a grey suit if you want to be monochromatic, maybe okay with a blazer and greys but really doesn't go with a lot of odd jackets), burgundy solid (can work with a suit but best with a pink or light blue shirt, works with a decent amount of odd jackets) and dark green solid (same idea as burgundy solid, sub pink for lilac).

    When we get to 10 ties, I'm adding a brown solid, navy neat, burgundy neat, some sort of rust tie in wool, and some sort of stripe. We get to a similar place but I just think the brown tie comes a bit later. I think we all agree that brown ties are lovely and useful. If I wore odd jackets much more frequently than I wore suits and was more interested in optimizing for odd jackets versus total versatility, I'd probably get rid of the silver/grey grenadine and replace it with a brown tie in my top 5. I also don't agree that brown is better with navy and grey suits than burgundy. I believe Claghorn wears odd jackets a lot more than suits; not sure about Stitchy.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2015


  11. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Thanks Greg, I'm going off the measurements on NMWA. The 32.7" waist Lorenzo trousers have a 9.6" rise...they are also shown as flat front. My 33 Formosa (tagged 48) have a 10" rise. That's a short enough rise for me and I don't think I'd want to go any lower...not even if I sized up to a 34" waist and 9.8" rise. If I'm off here, please let me know. Thanks for the help!
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2015


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Wool trousers are a must if you wear SCs, especially like the ones you wear.

    Have a look at No Man Walks Alone, Kent Wang, Howard Yount and Epaulet. This is such a staple item its worth spending a little to get it done.


    Bummerz.

    Plus one with the HY caution. Greta pants and they ship right away, but returns and communication is borderline deplorable.


    Forward pleat????


    I think it might be a preference thing because I simply think brown is just a much nicer color, but they are both equally versatile. Also, yeah, black grenadine is a must. Works with about everything.

    ---

    Noodles, almost any SC aside from gray ones will work with gray trousers. Almost a brainless excersize.
     


  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Murl, navy hopsack is a great choice. The trousers on the Eidos suit I tried were...modern in rise. :) If there's a more generous option (seems like there is), that would eliminate my sole reservation about them.

    Noodles, what is the SC you're trying to get rid of?
     


  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I know this may be confusing but the trousers we have on our suits are not the "Lorenzo" trousers model. We opted for the standard Eidos trousers with our suits. The "Lorenzo" trousers are higher-waisted - they look like this. I think they can be done flat or single-pleat

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2015


  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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