Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[archibaldleach]

Kira, I generally don't wear the few checked shirts of that sort that I have. I think that the gingham check is better than a solid color with little graph checks.

 

[Mr. Six]

Since SuSu comes up here occasionally I thought I'd add a data point. I stopped by the NYC store today to try on the La Spalla fit. The salesman who helped me was very nice but I had to convince him to let me try on a 42. He first offered me a 40 with the unsurprising result of bowed lapels. He then offered me another jacket but didn't tell me the size. It was too tight in the shoulders, waist, and chest. When I explained what I didn't like about the fit he asked me what size I thought it was. I told him 38, which it was. At that point he gave me a 42, which I thought fit very nicely, although it needed a little cleaning up in back. He said that the trousers would have to be taken in too much in the waist, which I was skeptical about but didn't argue. He also said that I have "old school taste." It was clearly well intentioned so I took it as such. Plus, he was wearing a pretty badass three-piece with a double breasted vest, which looked cool even if it was probably a size small at least. Anyway, here's a photo of the 42 La Spalla with t-shirt and jeans, cuz that's how I roll on vacation. (Sorry it's blurry. My iPhone is having trouble with info using at a distance and I have had a chance to get it fixed/replaced yet.)

 

[Henry Carter]

Looks good, but you need a long not a regular.

 

[Coxsackie]

But there was never an ironic twist with LK, which is something I aspire to. It may not have been pure '70s jet-set, but it was certainly a very sincerely meant version of it, which came from a place of great knowledge of the style. Barima did this very well, too.

I think the cues of the post-"Peacock Revolution" era (Call it '66 to '77 or so) are especially well-suited for that kind of thing -- the boldest stuff in tailoring was still done within the framework of "classic tailoring," while in the '80s you started seeing stuff that messed with the fundamentals (Armani et al.), while the sensibility of earlier decades doesn't lend itself as easily to camp.

Some fascinating perpectives here. It had never even occurred to me that LabelKing was paying homage to an era. I can see it now though.

...SuSu...La Spalla... [nipped]

There is some serious distortion going on here, probably in the mirror you used to take the shot. Human hands do not look like that, unless you have some weird syndrome, in which case you should go MTM.

Therefore very difficult to offer any sensible comment on this, other than to say the fit across shoulders and chest looks ok.

 

[Monkeyface]

Iso, you should look at Kilgour. Their new collection is pretty gender neutral and minimalistic in an almost futuristic way. They've done away with many of the traditional details. A vertical **** on the seam instead of a chest pocket for example, no obsolete buttonholes, etc.

It looks pretty cool and it's a style that would probably work better with the sort of waist suppression you're looking for. They're also supposed to be a pretty decent bespoke tailor, so that means they'll be able to line up the patterns for you and make sure there aren't any wrinkles. A bit more expensive than HK tailors though.

 

[Kira]

Here are some links from Cutter and Tailor that are dedicated to the 1970's. One of them compares the era to 1930's tailoring:

1. The 1930s vs 1970s - a Comparative Study

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=557

2. The Best of the 1970s

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=585

3. The Elegant High Shoulder

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=410

 

[in stitches]

Kira, I have no issues with those checks. I have a small graph check shirt that I wear pretty often and it has been in the 20 thumb thread a few times I think.

Murl, that lilac/white striped shirt from NMWA is amazeballs. Want so hard.

 

[The Noodles]



Know what would look awesome with a brown suit, but will run counter to SF's hatred of all things purple when it comes to shirts? 

This: http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/hand-sewn-lilac-striped-oxford-shirt-spread-collar.html

That is nice. I'd hit that.

In other news, the DC metro area weather forecasters absolutely botched the snow forecast. Initially, they were calling for less than an inch. Then when it started snowing, they changed it to 4-6 8inches over night. What the heck? Accidents and abandoned cars everywhere.

 

[Murlsquirl]



Murl, that lilac/white striped shirt from NMWA is amazeballs. Want so hard.

Kop so fast.

NOODLERS, you all get to help me choose a fabric for a new Eidos SC I won from RMHC auction. The swatches are here and I will upload pics in a few hours.

 

[ridethecliche]

Here are some links from Cutter and Tailor that are dedicated to the 1970's. One of them compares the era to 1930's tailoring:

1. The 1930s vs 1970s - a Comparative Study

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=557

2. The Best of the 1970s

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=585

3. The Elegant High Shoulder

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=410

Oh my gosh, I love the slim 60's silhouettes. The flare of the 70's doesn't really appeal to me all that much though.

@Isolation , maybe you'll find some inspiration from the threads that @Kira listed?

 

[in stitches]



Kop so fast.

NOODLERS, you all get to help me choose a fabric for a new Eidos SC I won from RMHC auction. The swatches are here and I will upload pics in a few hours.

I need money so fast first.

 

[sugarbutch]

My FirstFive recs (with potential sources)

Solid reppes in burgundy, navy, and brown:

(https://www.samhober.com/reppe-weave-solid-silk-ties/dark-burgundy-reppe-solid-silk-tie-5.html)

(https://www.samhober.com/reppe-weave-solid-silk-ties/navy-blue-reppe-silk-tie-11.html)

(https://www.samhober.com/reppe-weave-solid-silk-ties/chocolate-reppe-solid-silk-tie-22.html)

Navy neat:

(http://www.patriziocappelli.it/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_17&products_id=1416)

Burgundy neat (Clags' rec was good)

 

[The Noodles]

Kop so fast.

NOODLERS, you all get to help me choose a fabric for a new Eidos SC I won from RMHC auction. The swatches are here and I will upload pics in a few hours.

NICE!

I need money so fast first.

Me too. Which is why I will be on Penn Ave.

 

[archibaldleach]

Am I the only one around these parts who does not think a brown tie is a top 5 core staple?

 

[Claghorn]

Butchy's recs are pure conservative business dress whereas mine are more iGent conservative business dress.

Surprised you didn't include a navy pindot. I'd put that over a navy neat for pure conservative business dress.