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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. heldentenor

    heldentenor Distinguished Member

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    Thanks very much, Noodles--though I think I miss as many fits as I make. I'm still around this thread, but since I'm not buying as much as these days I don't post too much here. I save my problem fits for Constructive Criticism thread, but I'm happy to send a train wreck this way from time to time just to keep it interesting. [​IMG]

    Also, we want to see more of you wearing Formosa--don't hold out on us now that you've built a truly awesome suit wardrobe!
     


  2. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Distinguished Member

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    Why do you hate knits? Aren't grens a sort of knit too?
     


  3. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    :fistbump:


    I like them on other people when used well, I just personally dont have an interest in owning or wearing one.
     


  4. Spandexter

    Spandexter Senior Member

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    I agree with 1 and 2 but knit ties look fantastic in the right context.
     


  5. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    You guys are such haters.
     


  6. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I think this thread can certainly handle train wrecks as it has shown to properly handle my picnic attacks.

    Yes, I love looking at the suits hanging in my closet! I have not had a chance to take them to a tailor for a few reasons but I am looking forward to having them ready by spring. [​IMG]
     


  7. jfrater

    jfrater Senior Member

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    Okay - here's the next combination - first attempt at using the advice garnered here.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Jacket: Oxxford
    Tie: Hober
    Shirt: Liverano and Liverano
    Pochette: Tom Ford
    Trousers: Brioni
    Shoes: Gaziano and Girling
    Socks: Bresciani
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015


  8. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    I don't like the tie.

    Clags, can you explain your problems/thoughts on my fit and what I said? =/
     


  9. Newcomer

    Newcomer Distinguished Member

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    Hey Iso, just a little constructive criticism--first off, I actually think the fabric of your jacket is pretty darn special. I think it is a very interesting check. I also like it paired with jeans. I also like the light blue shirt, but I would ditch the tie, and maybe try to pick up a blue OCBD, or something of that ilk. That SC + jeans + spread collar + tie just does not jibe with me.

    I would also wear the majority of your SCs open. Do not get me wrong--they certainly "fit." But just because something contours to your body does not mean that it "fits." That is something that I have had to learn. My end goal with regards to a suit is for it to make me look better. Part of that is certainly fit. However, this means accentuating your positive characteristics, and minimizing the negative. I have something of an hourglass / pear shape. A substantial amount of waist suppression would likely "fit" me better, but it would also make me look more effeminate. Which is not what I am going for. The problem with bespoke, and a lot of the MTM that I see, is that it certainly fits closely... but it throws off the balance of the jacket, and ruins its lines. Using this picture as an example:

    [​IMG]

    I think the shoulders look fine. It appears to hug the collar of your shirt. The length is fine. But there is just way too much waist suppression, at least if you are going for the type of fits that are favored around these parts. I think the degree of waist suppression is also causing the quarters to flare.

    I know this is an unfair comparison, because, well, few can compare to the Vox, but look at how the waist of his jacket fits.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015


  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Jfrater

    A few thoughts. Mixing three patterns isn't really working here. I'm not feeling them: stripes, dots and checks. Too motley.

    The square just seems unnecessarily loud especially in this fit. It dominates. I feel that squares should be accents. I'm not that into tie and the navy check is probably not going to earn much love here.

    That said. A solid tie would do wonders to tame the fit as would a less contrasty square.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Jrafter, I think the most glaring issue is that those pants are much to rumply for that outfit. The formality is therefor discordant. The jacket/shirt/tie/PS combo is also not ideal. I think using nicely pressed light gray trousers and simply dropping the square there, would improve things greatly.
     


  12. heldentenor

    heldentenor Distinguished Member

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    Jfrater, you've got stripes and windowpanes of roughly the same scale, and they're going in similar but visibly different directions. That tends to make a fit look "busy," which is compounded by the loud dots in the square. I'm a guy who likes a lot of pattern, sometimes beyond the taste of those with better sartorial bona fides than mine (see today on WAYWRN), but I think that either a solid jacket or a solid/neat tie would improve your fit quite a bit.
     


  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    +1

    Here's my take...with caution (as I'm just a newb).
    Subtract the loud PS and the patterned shirt.
    Add a simple white linen PS and a solid shirt.
    The tie seems to not jive with the jacket.
    A nice pair of grey wool dress pants would be a better choice.

    The pull on the jacket seems to remind me of my fits when I used to wear one size small.

    But this is far far far from a mess. I think you have good stuff and just need some tweaking here and there to be fine.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2015


  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    FWIW, jfrater, I like your outfit. The fit and silhouette of the coat looks nice. Some things that I would consider changing:

    - The blue of the jacket seems pretty vibrant, while the pants are earthy. Pants that are more beige and less olive would be better I think.

    - Same complaint about the tie...it's a little earthy. Also, my personal preference with checked jackets is ties with block (i.e., thicker) stripes rather than the thin ones that yours has.

    - I agree the square could be tamed a bit. I would consider that kind of a tough square to wear. But I think it would stick out less if you just stuff it into your pocket a little more.
     


  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    iso: I like the rusty tie better. Note how much better the combination looks with the jacket open. Try a paler blue for the shirt. I like the cream silk (?) hank with this jacket.

    jfrater: The jacket's fabric doesn't look great, at least not in this context. Is it a raw silk? The shirt pattern isn't doing you any favors in this context, either. Plus one on the rumply trousers. I like the hank with that tie.

    stitchy: Stop hating on the knittery

    re button-downs, no one needs a button-down. Ever.
     


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