Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I think the trench coat works in this context because of the casual nature of the fit. It probably is less SF-approved within the CM part of Styleforum, but the fit you posted was clearly not a CM look.
     


  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't dislike the hat. I like it. But it also doesn't look good from a clothing perspective, regardless of the standards being used.

    There are other standards for clothing, however, besides those rooted in how an item or combination of items look.
     


  3. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    Interesting question.

    Some possible answers ...

    Those who wear undershirts probably aren't so bothered about cloth rolled on the thighs of virgins as it will not touch their shin beyond their lower arms. I don't want to kick off the whole undershirt / no undershirt debate again, I never wear one myself, but I'm also not THAT bothered about feeling a silken sheen against my torso. As long as its not like a gunny sack I can probably live with it!

    Some have hinted at a sacrifice in durability with expensive shirts. I can't say this has happened to me as I don't wear high dollar shirts, but with my more pedestrian choices I haven't had any problems with durability that some people have mentioned, but it may be an issue.

    I think the reason I don't jump on the high dollar train is that I never take my shirt off when wearing a jacket, so all that's seen is collar, half an inch of cuff, and a narrow triangle behind the tie. So its nice to have beautiful cloth that fits like a second skin, but its not where I focus a lot of my clothing budget. If the colour and pattern are OK, the collar is a moderate spread, the fit is reasonable and the sleeve length OK (all of which I can achieve with RTW) I'd prefer to focus clothes money elsewhere than bespoke shirts.
     


  4. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I have a nice shirt made of Loro piani fabric, and I can't say I feel a huge difference in the fabric compared to the cheaper ones I had made in Hong Kong. I really do like a nice fitting shirt, which prompts me to go sans jacket quite often, but I guess that's mostly with casual bold patterns and linen/flannel. That means tieless as well, so I end up with very simple outfits, but honestly I do like it quite a bit. I actually really like white shirts (both cotton and linen) with dark denim. Simple but I think quite nice in casual situations. With jacket and tie though the shirt just seems to act almost like underwear as they used to be.

    Also I was kidding about the hat. I was just feeling the remnants of Christmas~
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015


  5. Sotiris

    Sotiris Senior member

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    I would hope not :uhoh:
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015


  6. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    LEAVE ME ALONE MOM I DON'T WANT TO SHAVE IT OFF BECAUSE YOU THINK I LOOK LIKE A TERRORIST!
     


  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Definitely a suit.

    I like wearing nice shirts. But I will never pay over $300 for a shirt again.
     


  8. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    :D

    This conflation brought to you by Baileys Irish Creme!
     


  9. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just to be clear. I didn't suggest Iso to cut his hair, just comb/style it differently to fit in with the general vibe of his CM outfits. It's NOT like talking about weight, age, religion et c. He can just comb it back if he's wearing something that fits better with the style. Not that different from telling somebody to loose a tie that's not jiving with the overall look IMHO.

    Anyway, I'm sure you didn't take my post about long hair style suggestions the wrong way Iso, I wouldn't bother if I didn't like you.

    /hair discussion.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015


  10. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Ok another try:

    Suit: belvest
    Shirt: harvie and Hudson
    Tie: Sam hober
    Shoes: vass

    [​IMG]
     


  11. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I'm sure there's a lot of debate about the white collar blue shirt. I have no specific opinion on it, but I do think it lends itself to a power banker kind of air that doesn't make much sense with the tie color, though it's not very clear from the distance, it strikes me as autumnal and rustic, and not sharp and sleek. I also think the white square as a puff is not ideal in this case.

    I also personally don't like this layout for the DB. I feel like it accentuates a bloated look because of the way the buttons are placed in a way that a square 4 button and 2 spread ones does not because that seems to uphold the smaller waist, bigger chest look, whereas here it expands starting at the waist, if you understand. As it is it makes the upper side kind of bulky in an awkward way, and the shoulders seem a bit too strong and wide. Are the shoes dark brown? I think it's preferable to black in any case.
     


  12. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I have no problem spending $200+ on a shirt with great fabric, fit, and construction. They will last well over 5 years with a decent shirt rotation.
     


  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm still not exactly sure what yours goals are jfrat.

    But that looks like it fits well, though I'm not a fan of that button configuration. Just feels a little dated.
     


  14. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I dislike the contrast cuffs and collar look in most cases. It's not the worst thing in the world, but I seldom see such a look and think that a white shirt or plain blue shirt (assuming a blue shirt with white contrast collar / cuffs) would not be a better choice. I agree with Iso that a different color tie would be better. This outfit is begging for a burgundy tie (or may be a good time to break out a pink or purple tie).

    Agree with Iso's comments on the DB.
     


  15. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    On a personal note: I've never owned a blue-white contrast shirt. There's obviously a lot of baggage with that specific piece of clothing. Of course all clothing do, and that alone probably shouldn't disqualify it from being usable by a thoughtful dresser, and in fact arguably my distaste for the whole gordon gecko ayn rand greed is good banker bs can probably extend to pinstripes, or in fact business suits of most kinds, but it's particularly strong with this and my meh feeling for it overrides any charm it might inspire in me.

    That said I like thinking about powerful imagery in clothing, and the contrast shirt is definitely one of them, and I can see how they, and being able to wear them well, can be interesting but I think you kind of have to come to terms with the connotations of that item and engage with it usefully, whether by playing into it and going for that power look, or by deconstructing it (a move that I imagine is not as popular on these boards). I don't know if the latter can be done with this or is worthwhile, I'm not an advanced enough dresser to say (I'm sure dandies and the likes of LabelKing revel in playing with outrageous symbols and things), but I think it's fair to say that you must engage with an article's connotations and history, and at least seem like you understand and are intentionally breaking the rules, not just ignorant or imprecise in your selection.

    I recall seeing a fit on here that used one of these shirts that made me consider getting one, and watching these shirts alone on display always seem kinda cool, but most of the times I see it worn I think "eh this would be better if it's a plain white or blue shirt".
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2015


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