Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I think a solid pale blue shirt would do.
    I think we may be over analyzing your fit. It looks fine.
    The chest and the pulling at the button is a small issue.
    Miles better than my first fit. [​IMG]
     


  2. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    okay - the jacket fit - to help clarify things:

    1. It is buttoning on my sternum - so just slightly below the rib cage
    2. I have a big chest from years of singing and too much alcohol (I don't drink now)
    3. The tailor hasn't touched this one yet, but on other suits he has altered for me with this problem they tend to let out the jacket a tiny bit (1-2 inches) and they do some kind of trick behind the lapels which involves rouching the fabric a little in the fold and sewing it in place. This keeps the laps against my chest and stops the puckering effect.

    If it's any help, my rough measurements are:

    Chest: 43
    sternum region: 39
    waist:39
     


  3. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Heh thanks :) Does herringbone count as solid?
     


  4. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    [​IMG]
    Something like this? I think it is solid enough
     


  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hmmm...doesn't sound as if it is too tight in the chest if they can alleviate the bowing in such a simple manner but I don't understand what they are doing to the lapels.

    Does it feel too tight at chest? I think you'd want at least a 45 inch pit-to-pit measurement to give at least 2 inch allowance, but often it can be up to 47 inches, i.e. 4 inch allowance. So you probably take a 42 or 44 depending on the make?

    Jfrater, you have a very early join date but low post number...that's probably worth a story!
     


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Noodles! What are you saying? Small relative to human tragedies, but this is SF!
     


  7. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    it ain't egregious!
     


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Deal! :cheers:


    Id say pretty much yes, unless its a particularly obvious herringbone.
     


  9. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    It actually feels a little tight at the buttoning point - more so than the chest. I take a 42 - that seems to give the best overall fit. 44 is ridiculously large on me.

    I joined a long time ago when I was seeking out ideas for how to wear white tie properly (I was performing with our national orchestra on TV). After that performance i moved to London and life got the better of me so I seldom spent time online. I have recently had my interest in clothing resurrected because I stopped drinking and lost weight :)

    This is the result of my white tie suggestions from here: http://image.qpicture.com/image/j/artist-jamie-frater/jamie-frater-30387.jpg
     


  10. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    No, I mean a different brand or jacket entirely that has a slightly larger chest and lower buttoning point with a slightly less aggressively tapered waist!
     


  11. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Nah - it's a fairly conservative one I think. This is it:

    [​IMG]
     


  12. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Anyway some fit with that tie:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Okay here are some photos of problems on my jacket.

    Ignore the hair. Please notice my right shoulder, there's a fold of fabric there. Is it possible to get this fixed at an alterations tailor? Do you think it's a big problem I need fixed?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here's another issue I found, the buttons and button holes do not seem to align. First picture is me standing straight, then it's me compensating my shoulder so it aligns, then another picture of it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is the collar gap. You only really see it when I lift my hands up. I've included some fit pics to show that in most cases it's not noticeable. What do you think? Big problem?

    [​IMG]

    Same with other jacket.

    [​IMG]

    If you guys can recommend a good tailor that can fix some of these things (if you think it requires fixing) I'd appreciate, and an estimate on how much it'd cost as well. I imagine fixing the fabric behind the shoulder is something I shouldn't bring to just any dry cleaners place to get fixed.
     


  13. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Omg the hair...
     


  14. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    [​IMG]

    Let me take a crack at this.

    Issues:
    - Hair cut required
    - White shirt is poorly used here as it conflicts struggles with the beige khaki trousers and is too high contrast
    - Tie clip should go if it serves no function
    - The tie would be better serves with a navy jacket
    - The tie is too narrow for my taste
    - The jacket has a noticeable pull when buttoned
    - The waist is too tight on the jacket
    - khaki pants?

    If you only asked about the tie, my bad.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2015


  15. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    They're not khaki >.< I hate khakis. They are white (well, cream) denim. I'd wear my indigos but they're drying. Maybe navy flannel.

    And yes there's something wrong with the button as I showed in the fixes section.

    I too think the tie is a bit too narrow.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2015


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