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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Thanks (still wondering if it's worth trying out that slightly more substantial pair, just for comparison's sake...)


    ot- looks like Pat & Co. did a decent job on your Formosa. I had to go back and have mine "tidied up" a bit, and you were right about the length thing; I had to bring a few pairs of pants and a SC back to be re-shortened, and still not sure if they're good enough. I think some tailors get stuck on what they think is appropriate and have a hard time getting past that.
     
  2. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    This is essentially what I shoot for.
     
  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    That's why you have it pinned exactly where you want it, and possibly even measure the distance. Try on your trousers again when you pick it up. If it's not where you pinned it, ask them to correct it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2015
  4. bmwahba39

    bmwahba39 Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys, does this tie work on a navy suit with walnut strands?
    My only concern is that small strips of black on this tie.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2015
  5. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    I don't think it's possible to do a slanted break with a cuff ie longer in the back than the front due to the seam of the cuff. I think you can only do it if it's plain bottom.
     
  6. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    No, needs black shoes.
     
  7. bmwahba39

    bmwahba39 Well-Known Member

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    isn't it very bad to go Navy and black though?
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2015
  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Quite the contrary, navy and black is a very classic and formal combination. Black ties look great with navy suits, as do black shoes. Looks great during the day, and even better at night.

    Seeing as your tie is silver with black, black shoes would be the only option. Perhaps a dark oxblood or navy would work as well.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2015
  9. bmwahba39

    bmwahba39 Well-Known Member

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    alrighty. I'll go ahead and try to find some black cap toes. Any recommendations for around $150? Perhaps used Park Avenue?I do have a pair of oxblood that I could try perhaps?
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Noodles, that does not look like a full break to me.
     
  11. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Here you go. Nice last, proper calf, bang on budget in the sale, and they are very helpful people to deal with for shipping/sizing etc.
     
  12. bmwahba39

    bmwahba39 Well-Known Member

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    I'm located in U.S, preferably looking for something within the states
     
  13. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    It's called a 'military hem', at least in the US. 5/8 inch is more typical. I get most of my trousers hemmed this way these days if I can find the time.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  14. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I figured, but be brave. There is a whole world out there. And they make shoes. :)

    Seriously, these people ship to the US a lot - and they'll use EMS/USPS too, so less chance of getting hit with taxes.

    Otherwise, www.shoebank.com
     
  15. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Anyone have any recs for sizing from UK size for AS? Is a 7E an 8E US? 5 lasted AE's if that helps.

    I'm also a 7.5E on CJ chiltern and tetoury.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2015
  16. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    E in US is wide.

    E in UK is either narrow or medium:

    E = narrow: Grenson, Church's, Loake, Barker, Cheaney, Alfred Sargeant. So F is normal, wide is G. Vass also use this system, btw.

    E = medium: G&G, John Lobb, Edward Green, Crockett & Jones. So F is wide, G would be extra wide. Except John Lobb use "EE" for wide.

    Tricker's use numbers - 5 being medium. Because they do what they want.


    If you're a US 8E i.e. slightly wide, a standard width size 7 from AS, Grenson, Loake or Barker might be OK, depending on the last. I'd suggest contacting your expert retailer and asking: if you're wide only in the forefoot, or all the way over, and which shoe you're buying, will all make a difference.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. TomOwen

    TomOwen Well-Known Member

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    AS uses F as its standard width. So a 7F would be an 8D in the US. I would probably suggest you go with 7.5F for AS, especially if you wear 7.5E on the C&J Tetbury.

    I'm currently wearing a pair of C&J Tetbury from Barney's that is marked as 8D, and I wear 7F on the 87 last for AS, if that helps.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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  19. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    MF, from what I understand, even cuffed pants can have a back end that is longer than the front-end. However, I am pretty sure that it's really much more of a reality it when the pants are originally made that way.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Ha, I knew you wouldn't like it! You prefer your gorge to be high, isn't it?
    Slightly better shot. Though I like it that the low gorge creates an illusion of height, I'm not convinced about the overall silhouette. It's too blocky for my taste and perhaps a tad too short? Or maybe I'm just not used to DB yet...
    Obviously I have to let out the sleeves and exchange the buttons. It's definitely true blazer fabric (serge), but the buttons are too suitish, I think.

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.

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