Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @EliodA

    Well, we all agree on the main fit issue from the front. But your point makes a lot of sense.
     


  2. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Its just not a very ideal pattern for a dress shirt with a pretty conservative suit and tie.
     


  3. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    People hate on white dress shirts too much I think, or offwhite/cream, if you don't want it so stark.
     


  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Let us pause for a moment to consider a boater with a gray, pinstripe suit.

    I didn't grow up around folks wearing boaters, so I may be off-base, but that's not quite right, is it?
     


  5. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Would some of the issues in j fraters jacket be solved with a lower buttoning point?
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2015


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not if Elio is right about the tightness in the chest (I assume you mean the lapel bowing). Elio's explanation seems very plausible.

    It might be that the waist is too suppressed and the chest too tight.
     


  7. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I have no beef with white shirts when used properly.
     


  8. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I was thinking that having the buttoning point a little lower would allow it to drape better and allow for a larger chest to be cut and allow for a more natural taper for the waist suppression.
     


  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I think you are correct.
     


  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Are you talking about having a different jacket cut?

    On the current jacket, if the chest is too tight, changing the button point won't fix anything. If you mean having a different jacket cut, then it seems to me (but I'm not a tailor!) that the chest and waist are separate issues, i.e. you can cut within reason a chest of a certain size with different waist sizes (think of women's clothes where chest size is much more variable).

    I think the waist is overly supressed on the jacket at issue (i.e. look at the line on the side from armhole to waist). This is a matter of taste (see Suit Supply), but secondary to issues of fit here which are not matters of taste but of proper tailoring (IMO).

    But as others have said, jfrater's fit isn't a bad base line for beginning. I'd just like to see him in his best fitting coat. That's a better baseline for him.
     


  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, we could have a little wager...coffee at our meet up in the future in Bmore! [​IMG]

    I tend to think that Elio is right at this point, but let's wait for the OP to report back on how it fits on him.
     


  12. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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  13. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I'm worried my jacket has a slight collar gap. There's nothing when standing still but when I move my arms up there's a bit of a gap. I know there will always be something like that, but there's more of it than usual, hmm. Chest too tight maybe? Post pictures in a minute.
     


  14. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Is the shirt in your example blue check or a white on white pattern? That is a stunning look! I read the old thread as per your advice and I can clearly see where I am going wrong regarding mixing of country/city so to speak. I will begin making changes based on that and will continue to read the thread if I can find the followup threads. Brilliant piece of advice - thank you very much. Would you say that this shirt (and tie even) would have worked instead with the pinstripe or is the blue still too casual? http://cdn.styleforum.net/6/6e/900x900px-LL-6e2548e6_Ff1IEEF.jpeg
     


  15. jfrater

    jfrater Senior member

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    Excellent suggestion - I have solid white (slightly textured) and blue (herringbone) - would they do? Also, what about pale pink solid? Unfortunately most of my shirts are striped or checks - I have tended to avoid solids so as to not be boring (oops - guess I was wrong there!)
     


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