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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    There's hardly any padding at all. Shoulders look rumply because the jacket has been packed in a box for 14 days.

    I'll try to take better pics when I have the time.
    Thanks for the feedback so far, gents!
     
  2. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The fashion trend has been for a DB peak lapels to be a bit wider and higher. I've seen some lately that have gone way too far (although the bloggers seem to like to photograph them). The lapels in your pic are more subtle and understated which is fine, if that is the look you want. But to be more fashionable in an expressive Italian way, yes they are a bit low and narrow. Do you want more expressive lapels? That is the real question.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Elio, a full picture would help but I think it looks fine. My general view on these things is unless something is off enough to compromise the look, there's a range for these things and the main question should be do you look good in it. I suspect the answer to that question is yes.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Fun you brought that up, EliodA. I was actually asking myself the same question with regard to a SC I've planned on purchasing:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    While the gorge seems lower on your SC than the SC I intend to purchase, it seems more OK/forgiving on yours. Could it have to do with the fact that yours is a DB while mine is a SB, or that yours features peak lapels while mine features notch lapels?

    I think yours looks good, btw.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2015
  5. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    This seems to be the question, indeed. I'd say certainly not fashion forward, but of course I want to avoid looking like an old man... From the comments so far, it seems acceptable. Now, I have to get used to it [​IMG]

    Don, I think with a single breasted SC a low gorge is less desirable because of the downward pointing lines which leaves a sad and tired impression to my eyes. You don't have that with DB of course.
    FWIW, I think the lapels/gorges of the SC you posted are still acceptable, albeit perhaps not fashionably high.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2015
  6. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    You'd think it should be possible to have a low(er) gorge without having the feature of downward sloping lines, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Every picture I've seen of an older SC with lower gorge than today's seem to have that kind of shape (not the same angle as today's gorges that is).
     
  7. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    That is absurd. I pay $15 per in Boston and that is not cheap by national standards. FWIW, I do get working buttonholes on Formosa. If I buy a suit that is predominately handmade, then I like to carry that throughout the suit. Everything else, I don't bother.
     
  8. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Those loafers would look great with the combination you described. And if you are indoors, everyone will think they are black.
     
  9. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Same here, word for word.
     
  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The disadvantage of a low gorge is that there is, I think, a natural tendency of the eye to follow the lapel up and a gorge breaks that line. Too low, and it breaks too early in a displeasing way. So, I think there's something to be said for the higher gorges seen so often these days.

    Poets think a lot about when to end a line. If one ends it to soon, there are aesthetic consequences. Seems a reasonable analogy to the lines that define the shape and form of a SC.

    It's interesting if the gorge placement really alters one's perception of a person's height. Maybe a skilled Noodler might doctor something in Photoshop to demonstrate?

    DonR: given the angle of that photo on the SC (from above), I'm not sure we can tell how low that gorge is.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  11. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Quote: [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2015
  12. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    @noodles is that a PM?
     
  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    yup. I guess I had it coming.
    I didn't know I was so voluptuous...[​IMG]
     
  14. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Who sent that to you?
     
  15. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    It came from a troll account. It's been reported to the mods.
     
  16. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Funny, I've gotten a trolling PM recently too. Wonder if it's the same account.
     
  17. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Shades.


    Warning: The following contains graphic images and may not be suitable for all viewers.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    My face is fairly narrow at the top, so I tend to go for narrower frames (derp). There is also a similar pair I'm considering, with a slightly more substantial construction and just a few mm wider http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...esse-oblige-sunglasses-in-tortoise-brown.html. Not sure I like that my eyes are so visible through these. I thought part of the idea was to retain an air of mystery (and also to be able to do a little clandestine ogling when appropriate). Thoughts?
     
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Noodles, if you're having an issue with another member privately, keep it private. It's best for everyone that way. Yourself included.

    That said, I agree with Murl regarding the knit tie and the PoW suit.
     
  19. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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  20. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    I've just had the buttons attached on all my Formosa jackets, after shortening the sleeves. I'm repeating myself (I'm not sure if it was here or the NMWA thread) but since my tailor wasn't going to do hand-made button holes like the ones from Formosa anyway it was going to be mismatched in one direction or another so I didn't see the point of paying for buttonholes.
     

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