Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    As always with Claghorn, it’s a beautifully fitting jacket, and I like the cloth (might have preferred it to be a tad darker but that’s probably just me obsessing about versatility), but in this particular case I’m finding the pattern-matching (or lack thereof) to be visually distracting.

    Again, probably just me.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  2. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    @The Noodles

    You know Formosa fits you well.

    So in response to your question about what is next...

    do a Formosa MTO....you pick the cloth and the details...it is made on the RTW pattern.

    This seems like the most logical progression for you...
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just have a very clear understanding of my own preferences (and from where they derive).

    Besides, I'm not the only bespoke customer to also appreciate Suit Supply. The Shibumi boys both are regular bespoke clients and regularly wear Suit Supply. And though Coxsackie hasn't dipped his toes into bespoke yet, he wears very expensive RTW brands (Tom Ford amongst others) as well as Suit Supply. Holdfast had a bespoke tailor and regularly wore Suit Supply, if I recall.

    If it were possible to convert that patch pocket into a welt, I'd do it in a heartbeat. It kills me.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2014


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Was that jacket done by B and Tailor or your other MBT Korean tailor? Thinking it might be the latter

    Is BNT typically better at pattern matching?
     


  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    MTM. Though they also thought they had more cloth when they were cutting. Still.

    B&Tailor:



    [​IMG]
     


  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    It was more your previous BR/JC comment + this comment about not caring for "better" tailoring as much as a better stake, all the while being so invested in fashion, that was the root of my comment.
     


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    To be clear, I care about "better" tailoring, but I also acknowledge that it has diminishing marginal returns, so I'm not interested in the best money can buy.

    If wore jackets as rarely as I ate steak, I probably would feel differently. But if it fits well, I don't really "experience" the better tailoring (as you do with a fine steak*). At least with regards to RTW. I guess you might be able to see certain details, but really what you are paying for is what's on the inside, the quality of the fabric (not something I care about as long as it meets a certain minimum; same with construction), and the knowledge that what you are wearing was made by craftsman and that what you are wearing is something that very few people around wear. These aren't things I value. If it looks good, it looks good. Then if the price is right, I buy it. That's pretty much the end of the equation for me. If it happens to be made from some wonderful LL fabric, great. If it's just some bottom of the barrel VBC that's great too, provided the fabric isn't going to wear away after a year or two (unlikely given the size of my rotation, which I hope will continue to increase, though at a much more gradual pace).


    As discussed earlier, different folks are interested in fashion for different reasons. For me, I think SF is a lot of fun. Cataloging what I wear is soothing. And I enjoy walking around and knowing I'm probably the best dressed man (by certain standards) most people have seen all week, if not all month. At the same time, I'm perfectly happy walking around in a polo, shorts, and beat up boat shoes. I don't feel the need to be "on" all the time. That's just not how my passion for clothing works. Thank god, or I'd be miserable in the summer, dwelling on how underdressed I am or sweating buckets through linen.

    I understand that it works differently for other people. But for me, I don't see the internal inconsistency in walking around in an outfit that costs $2000+ on Monday and an outfit than ran me less than $175 the next day. I don't feel compelled to play with my model trains every day (take me off Lexapro, that may not be true. Though I'm pretty sure I'd be fine not dressing up as long as I can look at everything I have). Nor do I feel compelled to start playing with model cars and model planes. My obsession is purely CM and it doesn't spill over into anything else. And I don't care about where my model trains come from, as long as they don't suck and as long as they go well with the rest of my set.**

    *to be clear, it isn't like I was eating at Isabelle's every other week. I went 2-3 times a year, generally.

    **I've never obsessed over model trains. Or even owned them. Perhaps people into that are actually into cars and planes as well. My obsessions have been, in order, anything to do with dinosaurs, anything to do with space, basketball cards, CD's, DVD's and finally CM. I used to spend a solid 1-2 hours a week rearranging my CD collection (by genre, release year, artist name, album name, etc). Fantastic. Basketball cards may have been the most fun. Besides CM. CM definitely takes the cake.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2014


  9. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    Why the reference to VBC fabrics as bottom of the barrel :) the super 110s collection books and revenge 130s are quite nice and under appreciated in my opinion.
     


  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^ agreed. But they're sort of the low end of the good quality mills. Which still makes them a good quality mill.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2014


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    How can you quantify VBC as being on the low end?

    Sure, they sell to places like BB and Suit Supply, but they have some very nice cloths

    If they had their stock on line like the Huddersfield mills, I buy a lot of their stuff
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2014


  12. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    I think it's more the image of the English mills being far superior then the actual reality. Sort of like the differences between Carmina (made in Spain) and benchgrade Crockett and Jones (made in England), and I'd even throw some handgrade in there too.
     


  13. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    ^ and to add to that, I think Italian products and branding in general have gotten a bad rap amongst the know it all's on SF and forums like it. Powerhouse brands like Gucci and D&G, Armani etc. that once stood for quality and prestige have certainly abandoned quality for quantity. It doesn't mean that every Italian business is producing low end junk either :)
     


  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The low end of good. Which is to say, good.
     


  15. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    You have plenty of staples and plenty of killer jackets. So why not try a Formosa instead of soso susu? I get that they fit well and the prices are nice. But you have the luxury to play.


    Archi always makes good point. I am not ready nor interested in bespoke.


    Picking my own cloth to be made in regular 50R sounds like a great next step. I like how Formosa suits fit me now and I want to have the same fit and style in different cloths.

    But I am done kopping for now. Two Formosa suits within a month has put a big dent in noodles' piggy bank.
     


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