Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I wasn't quit being serious, but I do think that him having Greg guide him through the process that will really help and end up with a truly fantastic suit.
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I posed this question to a few members in PM yesterday. Looking for opinions on this tweed for a SC, inspired by a Attolini catalog fit. (Below)

    Stitchy has called the cloth "barf." jerrybrowne has called the cloth a "rakish" look that would only look good on a slim person. (I am slim, for the record)

    I personally kinda like the fabric because it is a more youthful looking tweed. It's anti-trad without going too overboard ala Dashing Tweeds

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Won't happen for two reasons:

    *I'm happy with my current bespoke tailor, despite the distance. So for bespoke, I'm set.
    *I'm very happy with the way Suit Supply fits me and construction has never been something I care much about. I'm a philistine, I know. Never cared about exclusivity either.

    I feel differently when it comes to steaks. If I had to choose between one 200 dollar dry aged porterhouse from Isabelle the Butcher in Itaewon vs 3 porterhouses from...damn....@unipair guy what is that steak place just down the street from you guys. Jang's?...I'd choose Isabelle all day, every day.

    I know that Formosa is the dry aged steak of RTW. But I can't eat a Formosa. I am not a moth. If I were a moth, rest assured, I'd feel differently.

    When I reincarnate, NMWA, I'm coming for you.
     


  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    The attolini one has a much bolder/thicker check. I don't like your cloth at all for an odd jacket. How many tweed odd jackets do you have atm? I'd get a navy or brown or tan or dark green donegal or herringbone tweed over that one any time. If you really want a checked tweed jacket I'd go for something bolder, similar to the huntsman house tweeds.
     


  6. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    ^^^^

    Damn. This is weird to the point of being spooky. I just spent a few minutes taking photos of this tweed fabric, which I’m going to use for a country-style sport jacket (though in my case something more British-inspired, like a hacking jacket). Assuming the photos are accurate, mine is darker.


    [​IMG]


    I’d appreciate tie suggestions. Wool or cashmere in a dark brown solid, of course. Anything else? Are there any patterns that might work here? Herringbone, for instance?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  7. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    The Attolini looks great fwiw. Would love to find a fabric like that.
     


  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    RTC - Congrats on getting into medical school.

    Noodles - No to Formosa bespoke (or other bespoke - you really should truly consider what cut / house style you prefer before even thinking of bespoke) for now. You've found a suit that looks great on you off the rack and that will always be made with quality fabrics. I think trying BNTailor for something is fine as I understand it to be reasonably priced relative to other bespoke options and really do think you should look at Steed MTM (look at their Instagram and at least meet with Edwin and Matthew when they are in town in February), which for a fully canvassed suit will be priced comparably to Formosa RTW. But ultimately re: Formosa RTW, you've found something that you like that looks great on you. You also need to build a wardrobe and acquire a bunch of suits over the next year or so and doubling the cost of your suits in addition to the waiting for multiple fittings is not conducive to what you need. Bespoke is great if you can reasonably afford it, enjoy the process and really value the improvements you'd see over RTW.
     


  9. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Was going to say the same thing too. If you're dialled in at B&T which you are, they turn out a fantastic product at a price that's fairly similar for bespoke vs RTW why would you go to Formosa, as beautiful as it is. I like the idea of loyalty to a tailor that looks after you well in both fit and service, we live in a very promiscuous world of tailoring here on SF a lot of the time.
     


  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    So, rtc, now that you'll be going to medical school in the Dominican Republic, will you need more lightweight suits? :)
     


  11. LeBeef

    LeBeef Senior member

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  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    @Monkeyface, I have a ton of tweeds, all of the ones you mention already.

    Which do you prefer, the bolder check Attolini or the one in the swatch picture? (I believe it's Lovat)

    Not a fan of the Huntsman tweeds. Are these the only ones? http://www.h-huntsman.com/blog/huntsman-2014-house-tweeds-inspired-by-gregory-peck



    @Academic2, I've had that fabric in my watch list for about a year now! Very uncanny timing indeed.

    I wouldn't use it for a hacking jacket, though I hate hacking jackets in general (those diagonal pockets are the worst)

    For a tie, I'd recommend black knit. Or brown.



    [email protected]
     


  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Claghorn sent me these fit pics that have been published already, so hoping it's ok to post here for reference

    He bought the same fabric and had it made up

    I'd wear primarily with jeans, not flannels

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  14. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Many thanks. Yes, a black knit would be nice. Question for everyone (but I'd be particularly delighted to hear from members from Ireland or the UK): would you consider a black grenadine to be too dressy for a country jacket? I know that there are national differences of opinion on some questions like this.

    My thoughts on the jacket design have evolved, and still aren't final. Originally I was toying with the idea of a Norfolk jacket, but finally had to admit that I wouldn't have too many social contexts in which I might wear it without it looking at least somewhat costume-like. Sad, but it is what it is. I then thought about a shooting style jacket (though probably without an action back), with bellows pockets and the like, but decided it wouldn't be as versatile as I might want for this particular purchase.

    I suspect that you're a bit fonder of Italianate styling than I am, and that I'm a bit fonder of British styling than you are. In any event, I've spent enough time astride a horse and messing about in stables that hacking pockets look quite normal to me, so long as they're not on a city jacket.

    Anyway, there's no urgency on this. It will be for my fall/winter 2015 wardrobe.

    Thanks again.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Clags, you are a real SF enigma.
     


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