Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    If there was collar gap in that jacket, it's likely due to the way i was holding my arms for the picture. That said, you're right that it's an issue that comes up as one puts on weight.

    I think i would leave the top button on the ct shirts unbuttoned as well to make the collar spread more. Can't tell it's unbuttoned with a tie.

    And yeah, this jacket is definitely starting to get small. The better fitting one got snagged and i need to have the hole rewoven. But the local place has a month wait and my next interview is in Miami. The suit I'm wearing is way too warm for that. So i need to confirm dates before having it rewoven.
     


  2. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    It's a mix of preference and various rules. Basically:

    1) A jacket's shoulders should extend at least to your natural shoulder line. A bit of extension is acceptable if it is done correctly.

    2) A jacket should fit cleanly over your chest. Lapels should not be gaping open. Some like a cleaner chest that feels a bit tighter and that's fine provided it complies with the first two sentences. Others like a bit of drape which tends to result in a more relaxed fit.

    3) You should be able to comfortably button your jacket at the waist. Exact degree of waist suppression is up to you but may depend on the cut of the jacket.

    4) A jacket should be at least long enough to cover your ass. IMO it is easier to err on the side of a longer jacket when you are taller.

    There are a bunch of other things to consider (how the jacket collar sits on your shirt collar, sleeve length, etc.), but those are the basics.
     


  3. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I get collar gap in many OTR jackets due to similar issues. I've found some brands that work for me, but have had the best luck with MTM. I've also learned that I cannot get by with short collar points, which are exacerbated by the collar gap issue.

    You should consider some of Luxire's entry level fabrics. I think they start at $60, which isn't much more than you are spending on CT, but you can get a nice collar.
     


  4. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Honestly, nothing. But I cant recall you ever posting in a DB suit.
     


  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Aw, thnx :embar:

    Yeah, I don't own a DB suit. I almost got one in Seoul, but ended up buying SB. I don't think I'll ever get anything else double breasted. I like the jacket I have. A lot. But a double breasted suit may be too much for me; also, anything I get double breasted I'd probably wear more had it been single breasted.

    My wife said that I need more F/W casual wear. I mean, she didn't say it like that, obviously. But that's what she meant.

    I'd like to improve my use of warm colors and warm looks. It's something I struggle with, probably because I'm missing certain pieces that would make it easier. Dunno. It's something I'm going to need to really ponder, but warm fits are something that I always have to put a lot of thought into. It doesn't come naturally. Though I think warm fits are, in general, more difficult than cool fits. Perhaps a topic for the Grad Lounge.

    As far as grey suits, those are very far from my mind. I have one (light) gray suit, but I don't like wearing suits unless I absolutely NEED to wear a suit or the suit is very casual (signaling that I'm wearing it because I want to, not because I need to). This is why I generally try to get any suits in a blazersuit configuration. Or in very casual patterns or cuts. So is I guess it's possible I get some countrified gray suit, but those are few and far between. I can't really remember any that I really like, other than the gray windowpane from Yount I already own. And gray does not make for good blazersuits.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2014


  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I think DBs are best made bespoke because there are too many variables to get right to be flattering. IMO SBs can be a little off and still look good but DBs have less tolerance. You might get a nice one RTW but you have to be lucky or persistent.
     


  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @Claghorn, have you considered a large scale POW check in flannel with patch pockets? That or a houndstooth suit? I think either would suit you quite well. A grey Donegal suit could be fun too.
     


  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Very true. If you aren't going to get the details pretty darn close to right, you are better off with SB.
     


  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I got lucky with my DB from Huntsman (rtw). Fits exceedingly well. But I agree...double breasted is best bespoke.

    I'm considering a houndstooth suit. Patch pockets.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Houndstooth is nice, but unless you are getting a gray suit or a DB suit (which is what you really should do), you really need zilch, and would probably be better off buying sweaters and other MC casual type stuff, if you have the need and interest. Imho.
     


  12. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Good Natured Advice to @Claghorn : Buy anything that isn't navy/blue.
     


  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Need, yes. Interest, no. I'll be heading to J Crew and Banana Republic after Christmas.

    A gray houndstooth sounds nice. As does brown (which will lend itself to warm fits).

    Yeah, Noodles, I'm trying to resist the urge to get something that isn't blue.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2014


  14. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    ????
     


  15. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    [​IMG]
    How is this^ $3,000???
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2014


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