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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Senior member

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    Just wear bespoke for the big meetings...
     
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Does he like Neapolitan tailoring? Does he know what house styles he likes? Does he know what house styles will best suit his body? Can he be sure that nothing will go wrong? Will he have enough time and money is something does?

    Bespoke is amazing. But it's also idiosyncratic, particularly that of Naples.

    There is a good reason to start later rather than now. You make fewer mistakes. You have a safety net when you do make mistakes. You appreciate the process itself more. He's young. The trips to Naples (better yet, Savile Row) can come later.
     
    2 people like this.
  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    If your shoulders are only 18 inches, you'll have a much easier time finding stuff that fits. What size chest...body measurement, not jacket?
     
  4. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Depending on where the company is located, you'd usually work on site for 4 days out of 5.

    Also, I don't want to get into someone's finances, but getting bespoke suits for a 20-something consultant in London is not a financially smart move. You wouldn't earn enough to have a bespoke wardrobe and live comfortably.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I’ve yet to hear a coherent argument for going bespoke in the current case.

    Bespoke is what you go for when you’ve had a lot of experience, know exactly what you want and don’t want (and why), know exactly the situations in which you’ll be wearing the suit, are knowledgeable about fabrics, and so on and so forth.

    It’s not where you start.

    Claghorn is right.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    2 people like this.
  6. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Is this a ridiculous purchase? Thoughts on versatility or proper context? Or would they stick out too much to be anything but a novelty?

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Bespoke can also work when you go to a top notch Savile Row tailor and say make me a nice navy suit. They'll make sure you get something nice. It'll also cost you GBP3000.

    Going to a lesser known tailor in Naples (the well known ones will be too expensive) and ending up a with a nice suit is a crapshoot. Most likely the tailor won't speak a word of English, and he'll have no idea about English tastes.
     
  8. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Senior member

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    Yea the thing is he wanted bespoke initally so I'm just telling him ways of getting what he wants/desires. Sure he can do MTM, RTW or whatever based on very reasonable arguments... but as a dreamer I think he should go big. Worst case scenario he goes and gets a few suits that go on sale for backup in the rotation.

    Jake... PM me if you want advice on how to go about this.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2015
  9. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    That would be a pretty bad scenario. Basically a waste of money, as bespoke suits don't really sell well in the second hand market. A GBP1000 Napoli Su Misura jacket that was worn a couple of times was sold for less than 200 on SF a while ago. He'd be left with 500 and and no suits.

    Besides, his budget for the entire wardrobe is 2500, which means suits, shirts and shoes. He'd only be able to afford one suit in Naples, because getting two will mean there's no money left for shoes and shirts.
     
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  10. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I recommend that he goes to a Charles Tyrwhitt or TM lewin store and tries on suits. There are a few cuts, prices are in the 350-600 range for some of the lower end staples that still look damn nice from what I've seen on this forum. Start out with a complete wardrobe and then add nicer things as you realize what you like.

    Don't do what noodles did....
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2015
  11. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    The purpose of this thread is to give people good, informed advice.

    Often that means talking them out of something.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    The reason our new friend brought up bespoke was because he was not sure if his body measurements were fit for ready to wear.

    Now if he had brought it up because he wanted to use more obscure patterns and fabrics, wanted a lot of custom detailing in his suits etc. etc. I think it would be worth seeing what the options were.

    However, I think step one first and foremost is figuring out which affordable ready to wear suit makers he should try which will afford him 4 or 5 nice suits and will also not require hundreds of GBP in tailoring costs.

    I just wanted to clarify the bespoke thing. I think what he needs most of all right some is some basic "where to start looking" guidance - brands, stores, so on. From there we can eliminate certain makers of suits if they are not working well with his frame.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2015
  13. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    Bar and restaurant recs are welcome, as they are my favorite way of gathering the pulse of a new place. Boston is a seafood town, I presume? I was only there for 2 short spurts for interviews in January. The weather was lovely! [​IMG]



    I would rather die. I wonder how many people I will piss off if I actually buy and wear this:
    [​IMG]

    Bespoke, of course.
     
  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Haha - I am guessing no one will bother you over a Tannehill jersey. If anything, you may get a little sympathy.

    Seafood town for sure. We also have all or most of the major steakhouses here, plus some very nice Italian restaurants in the North End (our version of Little Italy).
     
  15. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    My apologies. I confused two different posters.

    Deleted.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2015
  16. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Think you might be mixing me up with someone. I never wrote anything like that... I work in marketing at a bank, but reading between the lines I'm guessing you're not a fan :)

    They struck me as interesting but I certainly haven't seen many like it out there, at least not in a higher-quality shoe. Hence I put it out for opinion :nodding:
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    The only shoe of that sort I kinda like are the true brown/white combo Spectator shoes. And with those, the entire upper is always leather I believe.
     
  18. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Yeah these strike me as spectators that would probably resolve themselves at any distance to a uniform brown, but that also provide some visual depth and I guess "fun" (though that right there probably kills it).

    I'm sure I'm way better off filling a more staple slot but this shoe is right around where the budget stops ($350ish). I figure I need either a brown blutcher or something less formal than balmoral/captoe to go with basic flannel pants and pretty middle of the road sport coats.
     
  19. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I was indeed. A thousand apologies.

    Regarding the shoes, I doubt that I’m alone in finding it difficult to offer an opinion without a bit more information regarding the contexts in which you’re thinking of wearing them.

    I’m from the American northeast. I’ve seen shoes like that worn with more casual outfits at race tracks and yacht clubs. Can’t recall seeing anything similar in a business context.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  20. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    Jake's dimensions don't sound that tough to fit OTR. In fact they sound like the ideal SuSu frame. So I think his first move is a trip to the store to try on some different models, take photos, post here for feedback (do not listen to the sales people). If none of the models work, then he can move onto their MTM program.
    Over time he can nail his dimensions and start looking on ebay or b&s. No need to jump straight into the Eidos and Formosa stuff quite yet, and definitely not bespoke.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2015
    3 people like this.

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