1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was. I'd like to keep you abreast of the improvements we've made over the past few days.
    @notification emails have been added, in response to user requests

    Attached images are now Full Size by default

    Users are now all allowed three (3) links in their signature files,

    SSL certification is now in place so you can all browse securely.

    The server has been reconfigured so that site speeds will improve.

    Notice: Right now the site is slow because we are fixing all the images from the past 4 months. Many of you noticed that these were missing, and we are fixing that problem now. Unfortunately, it is taking up a lot of resources and causing the site to be slow.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    That's true, but still, I'd be hesitant to drop that much money on bespoke without knowing if that is exactly what I want. Your tastes develop and change when you're in the learning phase. I probably wouldn't be happy now with a suit that I had commissioned 2 years ago.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Like Monkeyface (interesting name) said, I do not know what I want whereas if I were to buy a car, I would know what to look for and know what I want. However, it really seems like if I am going to shell out $3k plus on a suit, might as well go with Mr. Fields because all these trendy RTW suits are..."girly" to put it nicely. If I can see what he has on display and talk things out then we might be able to get to a suit that will most likely be ten times better than a RTW suit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Don't go bespoke yet Rudals. Really, do that if you know what you want or really have the knowledge base, which takes time. I think good taste in clothes is only partly theoretical. It's like learning a language, and you have to try things just like you have to try to produce sentences to learn a language.

    Anyway: go pottery barn or something similar first. Learn what you like for a fraction of the cost of bespoke. Work up to it.

    Note: some bespoke tailors have MTM operations (Steed which will run you I think 1500 to 2000 I think (converting from sterling)). If SS MTM is too pottery barn for you, then why not jump up to something just below bespoke? A good local bespoke tailor might do MTM for less, plus you get their expertise. Steed must come to DC and many members use them (Voxsartoria is a famous client, but Umbel uses them as well).

    That said, did you go to SS (suit supply)?
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    A good MTM/bespoke tailor will be able to assist better than some random sales associate.

    There's really no harm at least scheduling an appointment and developing a rapport with one. You can describe what you don't like about suits and jackets and go from there.

    It's not like these guys need step by step IKEA instructions complete with smiley Swedish faces to make you something.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    No. I was busy planning for the freaking wedding that's been pushed up by like 3 months all of sudden. What is it with people?!
    That being said, I might have time to go to BB and try on different stuff.
    See, here's a little something about myself, I have a switch. It is either on or off. I have no middle.
    That basically means that I will stay away from mediocre stuff (my apologies to all SS owners) and just go after the most expensive thing that I can get when I do decide to get something. It is a weird mentality. So it is either something like Zegna/Isaia at full retail (not saying they're all that) or something like Hanes (not saying they're...yes, they're cr@p). I don't spend money on the middle stuff. Somebody call me a retard.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
  6. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Are we talking about these Swedish gals again?
    [​IMG]
     
  7. timotune

    timotune Senior member

    Messages:
    1,044
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2009
    Location:
    Vienna, Austria
    

    Then get some real top-notch stuff like Partenopea, Attolini or at least some nice Caruso. Zegna is, most of the time, just overpriced stuff.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    I just tried on a bunch of Sartoria Partenopea at Louis Boston over the weekend. Holy shit. So nice.

    I mean, a 100% cashmere SC from them is $5500 but might be one of the best jackets I have ever tried on.
     
  9. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Sigh...I just wish I could.
     
  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member

    Messages:
    10,005
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    I'm not entirely convinced that BB is significantly higher quality than SS. And I'm also not convinced that Zegna is significantly higher quality than BB...or at least that there is enough of a difference to justify the price difference (compared to others available at that price...stuff from NMWA for one).

    "Rudals" issues aside, how much do you get stuff tailored after you buy it? If you want to go for the more classic look, you may be screwed in finding something OTR that is both classically proportioned while also being trim. I think most folks here that buy OTR will usually spend at least 100 dollars tailoring everything to their specifications.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
  11. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    F*** SS, BB, Zegna. I'll just go to H&M or Express. They got some nice cheap stuff. $200? Oh yeah~
    And I wasn't saying SS is crap nor saying Zegna is the bomb. Hope y'all understood the point I was trying to convey.
    [​IMG]

    I've only bought RTW and I usually do end up spending $100 or a bit more to have them tailored.

    EDIT: When I say BB, I mean their GF line. I won't even touch their other stuff.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
  12. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    

    In my personal experience, BB Golden Fleece and the suits and jackets made with Saxxon wool are much nicer than the SS stuff I tried on. Mind you, I also don't like the SS style at all with the high button stances and such but wanted to see what all the fuss was about.

    Anyways, regular BB Fitz and Regent stuff wasn't much different in terms of how it felt in my hands.

    I've bought stuff from makers using Zegna fabric but as far as the Ermengildo Zegna line, nah ... not for me.

    I never need to tailor much - touch up the sleeves and take in the sides a little and sometimes remove a little excess fabric from up around the back of the collar and that's it. My guy charges about $60 for that.
     
  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    I think with SS MTM, Rudals could push the button stance down and the length down. He has to know what he wants, though and then be firm about it. See the jacket I posted with denim a while back (assuming Rudals other upper parts are easy to deal with...the rest I pass over in silence).

    My SS MTM jacket needs to drop about an inch in length and in stance but the back, shoulders, sleeve pitch etc. are clean. The lapel width is fine (not too skinny).I think my second try (if I ever do it again with them) would be pretty good and at 1/3 the cost of the Zegnas for SS's higher end fabrics (for basic fabrics in navy, the cost will be 1/6th of the Zegnas).

    The challenge with SS is that there is inertia towards their "modern" fits and you really have to push back, but I think you can.
     
  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member

    Messages:
    10,005
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    I think that going with SS MTM would be a good experience for Rudals. Really anyone wanting to stick their toe into bespoke.

    I have a couple jackets and suits with Zegna fabric. I'm definitely a fan.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
  15. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    The Suisupply lazio really doesn't have a high button stance, and the perfect lapel shape IMHO. I usually spend about $50-60 at the SS tailor for cuffs and taking in the jacket.

    Have you looked at Belvest? Quite nice stuff, and wider lapels as well. I've got a 100% cashmere SC that was £180 on sale. I think it retails for like £1500-2000 though, but a very nice brand if you can find a good sale.
     
  16. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    MF, didn't you say that the last time you went into SS to talk about MTM for a friend, they had lots more options (for example, three roll two?). Can Rudals work of the Lazio as a starting fit (I couldn't when I tried, had to be the Roma with a higher button stance...I pushed them down and it still ended up too high for my tastes...must be firmer next time).
     
  17. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Since I can't even afford to buy at H&M, I'll just wait for this to be restocked at NMWA and take it to a tailor and have at it. Stitchie is holding a gun to my head and is making me type this.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,068
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    This. I think that is H&M looks good on you, Noodles, you should go fot it. I highly doubt it because of the construction but who really know when you're walking the streets of DC that you're wearing Zegna? Especially when you are not wearing a FU jacket or suit that everybody knows is Zegna. If you don't want SuitSupply is fine, I would recommend Spoo's LuxeSwap thread. He aways have a bunch of things in 38.

    I have bought most of my stuff from him. This two SC's were $125 and $271, the first one is Ermenegildo Zegna and the second Isaia. Aside from SF and maybe tumblr no one else know they are preowed but I think I look good with them and that's what matters. [​IMG]


    Ermenegildo Zegna

    [​IMG]

    Isaia

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
    2 people like this.
  19. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    

    Yep, you can pick 3 roll 2, the wide lapel and tell them to lower the button by an inch or so, depending on your preferences. Side tabs, pleats, cuffs etc are all possible. Natural shoulders or roped, and they'll be able to do shirt shoulders soon as well. You can a DB vest for like £100 extra if you want a fun suit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
  20. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

    Messages:
    2,280
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    Got my Holiday & Brown Tie in that Jrd suggested, wow this thing is really nice in person, it's 4" wide which even on my stature (6'2") is stretching it but the colors are gorgeous in person.

    [​IMG]


    Picked up another Holiday Brown tie too. I didn't seek prior council approval because I got it for $9.99. I like it and I think I can work it into some looks
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I really like those HY pebble grain shoes and might pick some up for myself at some point. I think I need to situate a staple navy blazer first. Still working on that...
     
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by