Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Nice shoes.

    Also: el oh el incomes.

    I've never had a salary in my life, no chance of mortgage ever either. :(
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2014


  2. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    Looking good. The Soller last is great for boots
     


  3. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Depends on the weight of the hopsack, though I guess it is more closely associated with warmer weather due to its open weave.

    To reiterate/re-tack, recommend me a navy/darker blue fabric or two that covers a fairly broad temperature range, extremes aside, with some visual interest and depth.
    Hey, if I knew what my options were, I wouldn't be here in the (noodles-less) noodles thread asking what my options are. And I know some of you know. And you know who you are.
     


  4. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Navy serge is a classic choice
     


  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, cross cultural organizational behavior with a focus on exploring East-West differences via experiments. Applying to programs at the moment.

    Stepping back is always good for some people. One of the things I've realized since getting married is that not everyone is the same. Stupid thing to realize only now, I know, but being married, I've had to accept that my wife isn't capable of doing many of the things I am able to do. Vice versa, as well, of course. Sometimes I am unable to understand why she struggles with something (like adjusting to a new culture) largely because I didn't have those struggles (when adjusting to a new culture).

    So I don't think stepping back is necessarily the first option when one realizes that one is spending unwisely. Reevaluation, yes. Give yourself some limits. Having moved back to the United States, I earn substantially less than I did in Korea (though I also work maybe 1/5 of the hours I was. And I have days off! Seriously. You guys have no idea how brutal the first 8 months of 2014 were for me. I think over the whole 8 months, I had maybe 3 or 4 days off total. And none of those days were on the weekend, so I barely got to see my wife). I now have a limit of one tie a month. At some point, I'll be getting a pair of linen trousers. And at some point, another blue jacket. But that's in in the conceivable future.

    I've built a large enough wardrobe that I can enjoy playing with combinations. Monkeyface, I think you probably have a wardrobe of comparable size. Instead of focusing on what people have, focus on how they use what they have. Instead of looking at the quality or beauty of a pattern, look at how the pieces all work together, the relationships, and lust after that rather than the items themselves.

    If that doesn't work, then maybe think about stepping back.

    SF is an expensive hobby, at the minimum. But once you've reached the minimum level of investment, it's not costly to continue to participate.

    I love the blazersuit. Someone mentioned that its SF heyday has past; this struck me as sort of meaningless. The beauty of the blazersuit is how easy it is to use in the real world. The blazersuit seems too basic and too practical to be given the status--and the accompanying weakness--of a trend. AJL, I own something pretty similar to what I think would work for you. My blue linen-wool blazer suit with triple patch pockets....though I wish I had gone with a regular chest pocket. I believe the owner of Vanda (I can't remember his handle now.....gshen?) used the same fabric for his wedding suit.

    [​IMG]




    I don't recall seeing your WAYWRN pictures too often. Mostly because I tend to look at pictures without looking at names. Post a picture and I'll probably recognize it immediately. Anyway, you should consider making that thread the focus of your SF-self, as opposed to the AV threads or the brand appreciation threads. Work on getting really nice pictures which represent well what you are wearing. You have enough clothes, work on taking the way you wear them to the next level.




    Clearly my stance on leaving SF is: Don't.

    But again, if a person isn't capable of the necessary restraint...and has given that restraint an honest effort, then yeah, stepping away might be the only choice.

    Edit: I 2nd gdl's suggestion on the navy serge
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2014


  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    :slayer:

    UT Austin? I have a friend who went there
     


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    OK noodlers, I need your help gathering gunclub check fit photos. Some people have been requested them in my thread, but I only have about 15 good ones

    Criteria

    -Large image (at least 400 px high)
    -Clear lighting
    -Should show trouser combination


    @kulata
    @UrbanComposition
    @Claghorn
    @in stitches
    @unbelragazzo
    @Gerry Nelson
    @gdl203
    @EliodA
    Anyone else I'm forgetting
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2014


  8. Kira

    Kira Senior member

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    There's where I'm planning to go in two years (McCombs).
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2014


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nah, nobody there doing what I want to be doing
     


  10. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    100% agree with this. When I moved from Holland to Indonesia a few years back, I could bring only a small part of my wardrobe. The rest (especially fall/winter stuff of course) is still in storage back in Holland. Living here, with not a single decent tailor and only a handful of big brandname stores with ridiculously marked up prices, has made buying online the only viable option. But then there's the outrageous import taxes to pay here and the fact that I don't like buying suits or SC's without being able to check first if they fit. So I'm essentially stuck with what I have, apart from the occasional tie or PS bought online. But then I discovered SF and got inspired to try my limited wardrobe in so many new and unexpected combinations, that I don't feel those limits as a hindrance anymore. Instead, the challenge to come up with new succesful combinations I find extremely satisfying.


    Unlike most here, I'm not a fan of gunclub checks (long story), but I believe @Pliny to be in love with them, he may have good pics available.
     


  11. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Pardon my ignorance, but worsted flannel? Does this mean it combines the hard, durable characteristics of a worsted, with the softer, nappy qualities of a flannel? Is this blend what gives the fabric the " depth/ visual interest" I'm looking for? Any other characteristics worth knowing about this fabric?
    True story: I liked that fit of yours so much, I put it in my iphone photo album, and on more than one occasion, thumbing through it, I've backed up to that pic thinking "man, I looked pretty good that day..." The truth rears its ugly head soon thereafter. Its happened on several occasions... (side note: i did purchase that square due to this fit). Anyway, yeah that's a great looking (blazer)suit, and yeah, I would've done it with a regular breast pocket too. I am intrigued w/ the wool/ linen blend, though anything with linen in it would not seem to suggest a 3 season fabric, at least not in this neck of the woods (Boston). Curious what is the % breakdown, and what is the name/ provenance of the fabric? ( you would opt for gdl's serge suggestion over this, though, given my desired parameters?)
     


  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    This is the only good pic I have, but it's probably not what you're looking for and the quality still isn't that great. Stitchy has the same jacket, maybe he has better pics? Or are you looking for tan based gun club jackets only?
    [​IMG]


    Everyone, thank you for the discussion, it has been immensely helpful. I will think about all of it, and I probably won't leave SF, as I don't believe in extremes. Moderation would probably be a good thing for me though.

    My apologies if I made anyone feel uncomfortable by discussing this somewhat 'taboo' topic. Know that I do not judge anyone else on how they spend their money, I was purely talking about my own situation. I'm happy for all of you that you are able to enjoy your hobby and I thank you for sharing all this information and being so open when it comes to discussing the more dangerous side of this hobby.

    So, let's consider this topic closed for now and keep on noodling!
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2014


  13. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I think this is where my head is at currently and part of the reason I'm looking forward to not buying anything for awhile. As I said in the last post, I'm looking forward to having fun with what I have, rather than thinking what is the next gap I should fill. I tend to not post in WAYWRN for a couple of reasons, with the biggest one being my inability to share a quality picture. I'm usually out the door in the morning at 5:30 before anyone else is awake and walk in the door after 6 to the chaos of my wife trying to get dinner on the table with three small children running around, so not a situation where I could say, "honey, do you mind taking some pictures." I've tried getting pictures in the office, but the quality has been too poor to post. Perhaps my move in 2015 to an office with an east view (better morning light) and a new phone camera will change this.
     


  14. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    What about something in a cashmere blend, like maybe 10%? That would add a little depth and lustre, right?
     


  15. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    As in many things, I think Styleforum works best if you retain a strong sense of perspective on how its culture relates to your life.

    I'm one pair of brown bluchers/wingtips away from having a complete wardrobe for my circumstances, ties and pocket squares excepted. It's bigger than Stitchy's (TWSS), but about 90% of the items aren't quite ideal for one reason or another. Styleforum will reinforce this perception for most of us who did not/could not go straight to the top of the food chain, fit-and-quality wise, and I think it's useful to know how "good" or "okay" becomes "better" or "best."

    If your means or your ethics don't allow you to replace current items with better ones consistently, you face what might be called--with apologies to @jrd617 --the "grad lounge paradox." Do I stick around, knowing that there's a quality-imposed ceiling on my fits relative to the SF standard on WAYWRN and, especially, the 20-thumb thread, or do I leave before envy or excessive spending result? I hang around for a couple of reasons: to make what I have better, either through suggestions about tailoring, combinations, or minor additions (thanks, Constructive Criticism thread); to see and appreciate how other people wear and enjoy their clothes; and, yes, to keep an eye out for affordable opportunities for the occasional addition. It's been fun, and I hope it will continue to be for those of you contemplating a hiatus.
     


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