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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    So guys, the rule is always that a jacket must cover your seat no matter what, right?

    I just picked up a new DB coat, which just about covers my seat, but it feels entirely too long for me. The jacket is 31.75" long, and I'm 6'2".

    It's at the tailor now to shorten sleeves, but I'll post a picture when I pick it up tomorrow. Would it be worth it to shorten the jacket by about half an inch?

    Found a pic on my phone. The sleeves are being shortened and the buttons are being replaced with smoked MOP atm. It's a flannel corneliani made jacket for PRL:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2015
  2. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    I know it's a matter of anatomy, but that doesn't sound right. Im 5'10"-11" and my jackets are 31,5-32" TOC, which is about right for me as for covering the seat. Or did you mean BOC?
     
  3. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    I believe the consensus is that a DB can be a bit shorter than a SB.
    Of course, shortening should be less complicated and risky as well.
     
  4. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    BOC
     
  5. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    I think it looks fine as-is, MF and not worth shortening for the amount I would shorten it.

    I'm 6'4" (less any shrinkage, which feels like has started already :/) and 32 BOC is the minimum for me.
     
  6. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Thanks for the feedback! I guess I'll wear it a couple of times, see how it feels. I'm a big fan of the lower buttoning point on this one. It's quite hard to find these days.
     
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I'm just a hair under 6-1 and 30-31 inches BoC usually does the trick for me (except for a weird Brooks Brothers blazer that is 30in BoC but look major short in the front due to the quarters). 31.75 sounds about right for someone who is 6-2. You COULD probably have it done a bit shorter but the length is within "the zone" for you based on the pic, if not just slightly on the long side. Not something I would be worried about.
     
  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I'm 6'2" and my sweet spot is 31-32 inches measured from the BOC. That does look a little long in the picture. Perhaps the perception it's a little long is due to the fact it is double breasted as I know a single breasted jacket with closed quarters can look longer than a jacket the same length with open quarters. That Eidos cut with the longer length and open quarters comes to mind as an example of this phenomenon.
     
  9. DapperDan15

    DapperDan15 Active Member

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    Assuming your trousers are high-waisted and sitting properly: if it just covers the seat, then it's just right IMO.
     
  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I'll be the dissenting voice and say that it looks a bit long and stretched on that photo. Our eyes are calibrated to see slightly shorter DB jackets and this one feels like it's stretching quite beyond the visual half of your body height. It may be the angle and the jacket length may perfect IRL though.
     
  11. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    For a suit, I won't sweat the length but for an odd jacket it seems long just based off that picture. Weird though at 5' 10" I have jackets that are 31.5 inches and they don't look too long. Difference in anatomies I guess...
     
  12. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    I think we all agree that it can be shortened a bit. Since you're going to see your tailor for the sleeves anyways, why not ask for his opinion on the length as well?
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. jssdc

    jssdc Senior member

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    I also agree that it looks somewhat long - from the camera angle the jacket hem looks lower than your right thumb - but would be concerned about shortening much more that 1.5 cm since the hip pockets are also cut somewhat low (in line with the low button point, which you said you preferred on this coat). Is that an L?
     
  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    General thoughts on these three fabrics?

    Far left is grey/charcoal with brown deco and is a suit. The other two are jackets and pretty self-explanatory.

    [​IMG]

    Spoilering the pic because I chose the largest size and didn't wanna clog up a page.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2015
  15. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    Eidos?

    Also, may want to hide that email with the number of spammers flooding SF these days...
     
  16. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Completely personal opinions here, but the only one I like is the far left. It wouldn't make a staple, but it would be a nice suit to have in a rotation. The middle option I could only imagine wearing with a few things, as such it wouldn't be worn very often if it were me. The one on the right reminds me too much of a Burberry pattern.
     
  17. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Yes and good call - I will attempt to edit that now.

    Done and done - thanks again for pointing that out.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2015
  18. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    E-mail from Marc Etlin? :) Saw all three fabrics when I was in NYC a few weeks ago.

    My views are consistent with Caustic Man's. The fabrics appear in the order of my preference. I nearly bought a suit in a fabric similar to the charcoal, but then I realized that I rarely wear suits anymore. Price was right, however. The middle fabric makes for a nice odd jacket if you don't have anything similar in your wardrobe and you already have plenty of staples. The fabric on the right is something I like in theory but doubt I would reach for that often.
     
  19. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Since I never post full fit pictures and had a photographer for once, I thought I'd share a picture from this past weekend with my two oldest as we get ready to head out to the Daddy/Daughter dance.

    [​IMG]
     
    21 people like this.
  20. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Beautiful family. Thanks for sharing, bud.
     
    3 people like this.

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