Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    The Hickey shoulders are extended a bit and the Crittenden sits just at his natural shoulder line but I hate the quarters on both due to balance issues which is inevitable (lordosis). A good alterations tailor should be able to get them to a passable state. The BBs are just too damned short.
     


  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Some quick thoughts.

    1. The BBs are too short in my book. They don't cover your seat. If you like them, you should try a 40L which they should have. Aim for the tip of your thumb for starters. There are issues of the style of the jackets but set that aside for now.

    2. Side vents, not single vents. I'm not a tailor but something is happening at the hip (is your hip pushing back, as in the Southwick shot?). This is making it difficult for the jacket to clear your seat leading to the bunching in the back shot where the vent is sitting open.

    2. Note the straight line of the lapel on the first two BBs, something you also want to aim for (no bowing). The shoulders look cleaner than in your previous pics. See the second pic, for example, how it curves nicely at the turn of the shoulder, with no wrinkling. There is wrinkling in your sleeve it seems, but one thing at a time.

    3. The quarters of all these jackets are closed, that is, the space below the last button, how the jacket falls. See some pics earlier in the thread where that opens up a bit more.

    4. I think you might need a higher collar on your shirts. In the last pic, the corduroy jacket isn't sitting well on your shoulder, a little collar gap, but also, your shirt collar gets swallowed by the jacket. You need a higher collar. In none of your photos can I see the shirt collar in the back.

    What you've learned: 40L RTW is probably the size you want to try, to begin with; a sense of how the jacket should sit, focusing on appropriate size for chest and fit at shoulders. I still say, aim for the thumbs for jacket length. I wouldn't recommend any of these but I like the fabric of the HF, from what I can tell. Brown herringbone?

    Anyway, keep trying and be patient. Fit first!

    Edit: looked up "lordosis" and that explains (2).
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2014


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Can't speak for anyone else, but yes for me. Watching the original Karate Kid with my boys right now.

    It's much cheesier than I remembered. And that's saying something.
     


  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is damn cheesy. I thought all those great movies from the 80s would be awesome to watch with the kids...mostly, not.
     


  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    They are enjoying it so far. I think mainly because they aren't yet sophisticated enough to recognize dreadful acting and painful cliche!
     


  7. JIMB

    JIMB Senior member

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    Thanks for all your thoughts. HF was a green donegal-style herringbone tweed. Great fabric indeed.
     


  8. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Senior member

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    Last edited: Nov 15, 2014


  9. mdancel

    mdancel Well-Known Member

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    I've been looking at similar ties to those listed but was leaning towards 3.25 x 57". Would 3" be too skinny for SF tastes? I'm 5'8" 38 chest.
     


  10. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Senior member

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    It'd certainly be too thin for my preference but I'm 6'1" and 42" chest. I prefer 3.5" width. Maybe our smaller brethren will comment? If you definitely wanted 3.25", I would not recommend settling for the 3" ones just to take advantage of slight discount.
     


  11. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I am 5ft7 and a true 39S / slim 40S. I get my Hobers 56 by 3.5 and happily wear my 3.75 inch wide ties. I think 3 inches is a bit slim but not extremely so.
     


  12. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    This. Don't fret about 0.25 of an inch, how little is that? And the wider part of the tie will be covered by your jacket anyway, for we're not walking around with our jackets unbuttoned, do we?
    More important is the balance with the lapel width, IMO.
     


  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Yeah. There is an acceptable range that shifts a bit based on build. Being a bit narrow or a bit wide is not the end of the world if it is within reason.
     


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I lol'ed. I need to post more over there, but I am teh lazy. : (




    Nope.







    I have tried very hard to not ruin my fond memories of all the movies that I loved as a kid, which I am sure would be horrible now. Much better to just talk about how awesome they are, but never actually re-watch them.

    That being said, I have caved and watch two movies from my childhood with my kids. The Sandlot and Honey I Shrunk The Kids. Loved em on the re-watch and my kids loved em to. I cried sweet tears of joy.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2014


  15. 997CTSurg

    997CTSurg Alpha-M

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    I've watched the Sandlot with my 7 year old We both loved it.

    Although I must admit that my memories of the movie were likely distorted by all the pot I was smoking when I first saw it (1993-junior/senior year in college).
     


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