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Going nuts over suit fitting.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MilanoStyle, Oct 12, 2004.

  1. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Ok. I am getting really frustrated with fitting of my suits. One day I thought that I fitted real well when I put the damn thing on, but next time I try it on, I start noticing problems.

    How do I know if my suit fits right? Sometimes I am so confused, sales people always say their products fit perfect on me, but other store sales people say the suit I am wearing does not fit properly (although I thought it did). Girls are no help here. They have no clue when it comes to man's suit fitting.

    Can someone suggest a checklist on suit fitting? My biggest problem when it comes to jacket fitting is that extra space around belly area. I am wearing all these slimmer euro-cut suits: Armani, Brioni, Zegna, Canali. But they all create unwanted room around my belly area. Is this just my head playing a game?

    I have large chest muscle and real flat rip cage. So, the jacket does not hug my body blow chest area. How can this be fixed? (I am not going to start drink gallons of beer to gain beer gut.)
     


  2. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Whatever you might think of him, I believe Alan Flusser's advice on suit fit is correct in 99% of cases. You can find a brief primer here, but there is much more detailed advice in both Style and the Man and Dressing the Man.
     


  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    There should be some extra room in the belly area -- the proper taper on a jacket is not as severe as the proper taper in, for instance, a properly made dress shirt. For me, I know that the waist of the jacket fits right when (1) it has a noticeable suppression in the waist [you can tell this by just lifting up your arms and seeing the hourglass shape, and (2) when from the profile view [from the side] you can see the back of the jacket starting to follow the shape of the lower back. The worst test is the one that sales people often do -- which is button the jacket and then "pulling it foward" to see if there is extra space -- of course there is going to be extra space.. Also, if the waist is properly fitted, the shaping in the lower back will cause the top of the vent(s) to hang properly (close to the body as opposed to standing way away from the body).
     


  4. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    I wouldn't stress out too much about it.

    Fit can vary from time to time, because your posture does.
     


  5. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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  6. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Senior member

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    I think you need a bespoke if you have such high requirements.

    Anyway, it is difficult to judge just by a photo.

    It looks that your sleeves are too long. Also the jacket maybe too long, in addiction of too large.

    I like, for example, to have some creases on the waistband of the jacket, and I'm slim; we say in italian that the "jacket pulls", "la giacca tira".

    Some effects are hard to have, if not with a bespoke suit.
     


  7. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    I am inclined to agree with Alias. From the photo, I would tend to think the issue is, at least in large measure, posture. It appears, and admittedly one photo is scant evidence, that you are positioning your shoulders behind your hips, which has the effect of thrusting your stomach forward.

    As an experiment try standing and tightening your abdomen from the pelvic girdle up through the lower torso, concentrating on keeping chest slightly up and out, pull the shoulder blades ever so slightly togather. See whether this changes the way the suit drapes on the frame. if yes, the fit is being dictated in large measure by posture. If not, work with your tailor.

    Take care and don't obsess, its just clothes.
     


  8. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    thank you for your comment. 1. I like long sleeve for some odd reason. when sleeve are short enough to show cuff of the shirt .. I feel very odd .. so .. I usually leave sleeve length long to cover my wrist. 2. Length of the Jacket. Yes. I feel its bit long too. But I cannot help that. Thats how Canali RTW comes in .. Interesting thing I noticed when comparing Canali jacket to other jacket like my Brioni or Armani is that Canali's tail-rear end of skirt edge is not curved up, thus creating 'longer' look. Brioni, Zegna, Armani, all of these jackets tail edge curve up .. Perhaps I can do that to Canali? To fit upper chest and shoulder I need to wear 44R coat. But to fit belly and waist, I need like 40R coat. I want Italian suits. But bespoke or MTM (I highly doubt MTM is solution for me) Italian suits are fairly expensive .. [​IMG]
     


  9. truthhurts

    truthhurts Senior member

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    Which sizes did you try that jacket in? It seems way too big to me.

    For heaven's sake fix those sleeves. You look like you're wearing one of your dad's suits.
     


  10. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    I usually try 44R or 42R.  42Rs usually makes back real tight and upper arm buldges out.  I am wearing 44R in the photo ..

    I donno .. I like long sleeves .. hmm .. what to do .. BTW .. I rather have short arms as well.

    I look like wearing my dad's suit? hmm .. I think I'll burst his jacket wide open if I was trying to wear it.
     


  11. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yep--- looks like the jacket is a bit large. Sleeves can be fixed, of course, but it also appears that you have a bit more room in the shoulders and through the body than you need. If the next size down doesn't have enough room in the shoulders, then bespoke might well be in your future. My condolences, for there is no going back once you go down that route.
     


  12. truthhurts

    truthhurts Senior member

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    Have you spoken to a tailor about having the jacket brought in at the waist? If the chest is tight at that size then that's what I'd do. Get him to bring the sleeves up at the same time, add a nice pocket square and I think you will be striking in that suit [​IMG]
     


  13. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Yeah. The tailor said he can bring the waist in little more .. Believe me, initial alterations on 44R RTW suit is HUGE.. Not a single so called 'master tailors' could get it right at initial alteration. I will send this suit for alteration once other Canali and Zegna comes in from the tailor.. "add a nice pocket square" -? Could you explain me what you are saying? Thanks.
     


  14. truthhurts

    truthhurts Senior member

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    I think that outfit looks a little plain because you have a white shirt and no tie. It needs some irregularity.
     


  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    The longer skirt is just part of the Canali style - it looks fine. The shoulders look a little too wide - I really think that the Armani silhouette, all workmanship considerations aside, do fit you a little better. Ever notice how well Ahnold's suits fit him? Well, that because he wears a lot of Armani - the natural shoulder prevents him from looking like a former linebacker sports commentator. As for the sleeves, they are a little too long (I have the opposite problem - I have long arms, but a 40L would be too long on me everywhere else,) but this problem is easily fixed. As for your so called "belly" problem, it's really not that much of a problem. It may be counterintuitive, but you don't want too much waist suppression if you have a large drop. It can make you look like a caricature. Elegant is the effect you want, not cartoonish. I would suggest going to a good tailor and having him take in the waist just slightly.
     


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