Going in for my first bespoke?

[jaitaras]

Hi SF,

I feel like it's time for my first bespoke suit.

I've been a lurker at this site for a long time, but decided I'd finally make an account to ask a few questions (i know, selfish since I'm asking for help without ever contributing; I promise to start!)

I'm probably going to go with some Chan tailor I've read a lot about over the past few weeks, and have actually just scheduled a fitting appointment on his/her next tour.

I've been noticing things on people suits the past few years, and have thought about a lot of my favorite features, here is kind of what I'm going for:

For the jacket I am thinking:

Single breasted, 3 button pin-striped, notched lapel
full canvas
light-to-non padded shoulder
medium/medium-high gorge
dual vents
tight and high arm holes
4 working sleeve buttons (kinda wide-spread)
flapped hacking pockets (these are the ones at an angle right?) 2 on the right side one on the left
thinish lapels
lapel buttonhole
lower left cell phone pocket
one regular inside pocket
laser pointer pocket, upper inner left side

And for the pants, I want to get two pairs

button fly
no rear pockets
one no pleats + button tabs
one double pleats + belt loops


Anyhow, my four questions are,
"am I going overboard with my specifications?"
"does this sound like a stupid idea for a suit?"
"are there any other things I should be considering prior to going in?"
and, "how do you go about picking the best fabric for your suit usually?" (for example, would it be a bad idea to just have the tailor help me pick a fabric based on my above requirements?)


If it means anything, I currently own 3 suits, but they all fit poorly, partly because I am a skinny guy with wide shoulders and a thin waist, and partly because they were all cheap off the rack suits

I'll be starting a new job soon (getting out of the military) where I'll be required to wear a suit once or twice a week.
I decided my first bespoke suit will be a black with pinstripes, as it seems the most versatile--what do you think about that?
If this turns out anywhere as nice as I hope it does, I plan on getting a second one in grey with a few changes.

Thanks for any input!

-Jai

 

[LanceW]

These are the details I requested for my last suit:

Jacket\t
\t2 button, notch lapel
\tDouble besom pockets
\tDouble besom Ticket pocket
\tWelted barchetta chest pocket (curved)
\tFull Canvas
\tSoftly constructed but not formless
\tGently sloped Natural Shoulders, non roped
\tHigh Armholes
\tStraight Lapel Buttonhole with Flower Loop
\tInside pockets - passport, pen, cell and business card pockets; both sides
\tWaist Supression
\tTapered at the hips
\tHand picked stitching
\tMatch stripes everywhere possible
\tSide vents
\tTapered Sleeves
\tSurgeon cuffs with 4 kissing buttons, 3/4" from end of sleeve
\tLean chest but enough room for motion
\tStripe on outer edge of lapel

Trousers
\tSit at natural waist
\tFishtail Back
\tSlant on bottom of hem
\tZipper Fly
\tFront pockets angled
\t1 rear pocket, buttoned, right side
\t2" Cuff, very slight break
\tDouble forward pleats
\tButtons for braces, no belt loops.
\tTapered Legs
\tStride: just long enough to walk and sit without binding.

 

[emptym]

I wouldn't do thin lapels, hacking pockets, a ticket pocket, or black. But otherwise it sounds good.

 

[mktitsworth]

How did you get in contact? I sent a message through the website to try and make an appointment about Dallas, but have yet to hear back. This was about a week ago.

 

[jaitaras]

Thank you LanceW, that gives me more things to look up and consider; I appreciate it. Especially good to know (think) about matching the stripes.

emptym, two questions about your reply:
Is the second pocket I wanted called the ticket pocket? I had always assumed a ticket pocket would be a jetted pocket above one of the flapped pockets.
My more important question is: are those just your general opinions for what you prefer, or is it your (or a widely held) opinion that hacking pockets don't look good with thin lapels or a black suit?

I keep going back and forth between wanting my first suit to be a grey or a black suit,not sure which I'd prefer to wear more! Hah.

mktitsworth, I sent an e-mail a while back, maybe a month, and only just got a reply last week. They might be behind schedule as far as answering e-mails goes? I actually used the e-mail contact page on their website, like you indicated you did. Also, I haven't rechecked the schedule, but the date I was gunning for was I think the 15th of July, so if the date you were looking for was later than that, maybe they only reply once it gets X days away? I really don't know...

Thanks for the replies!

*goes off to look up at least a quarter of what LanceW mentioned*

 

[LanceW]

If you are wavering on color, I highly recommend you go with the grey over the black pinstripe. Grey will be a better backdrop for your shirts and ties and a solid grey/navy is less memorable for the color itself, ergo a better choice when you do not have many suits to rotate through.

Hacking pockets are a casual detail, as are ticket pockets (riding horses / taking train to the country). Personally I would chose one or the other. My understanding of the ticket pocket is it is just another pocket and can by stylized however you choose, jetted or flapped.

By the way, I highly recommend ditching the button fly for breakaway pants or at least a quick-release zipper. With your bespoke suit, you will be getting a LOT of ladies and it's always best to plan ahead

 

[dragon8]

I agree with no thin lapels. Why no back pockets for the trousers? I think it may look off without it.

 

[jaitaras]

Originally Posted by LanceW

If you are wavering on color, I highly recommend you go with the grey over the black pinstripe. Grey will be a better backdrop for your shirts and ties and a solid grey/navy is less memorable for the color itself, ergo a better choice when you do not have many suits to rotate through. Hacking pockets are a casual detail, as are ticket pockets (riding horses / taking train to the country). Personally I would chose one or the other. My understanding of the ticket pocket is it is just another pocket and can by stylized however you choose, jetted or flapped. By the way, I highly recommend ditching the button fly for breakaway pants or at least a quick-release zipper. With your bespoke suit, you will be getting a LOT of ladies and it's always best to plan ahead

Haha, breakaway pants; genius! I can't stand zippered pants, I think the military ruined me with that one--have been using buttoned pants for the past 6 years! Hmmm, I'll think about the pockets and colour some more....we'll see.

Originally Posted by dragon8

I agree with no thin lapels. Why no back pockets for the trousers? I think it may look off without it.
I can't stand back pockets, they just look wrong to me.... I'm going to do some soul searching on the lapels; maybe I'll try and photoshop something together while I think about it. Thanks again for the input!

 

[mktitsworth]

Originally Posted by jaitaras

mktitsworth, I sent an e-mail a while back, maybe a month, and only just got a reply last week. They might be behind schedule as far as answering e-mails goes? I actually used the e-mail contact page on their website, like you indicated you did. Also, I haven't rechecked the schedule, but the date I was gunning for was I think the 15th of July, so if the date you were looking for was later than that, maybe they only reply once it gets X days away? I really don't know...

The 15th puts you in the DC area. I'm after the 18th here in Dallas. Hopefully they will reply back.

 

[jaitaras]

Yea, the DC area; I'll be up there for business so it'll coincide well.

 

[emptym]

Originally Posted by jaitaras

emptym, two questions about your reply:
Is the second pocket I wanted called the ticket pocket? I had always assumed a ticket pocket would be a jetted pocket above one of the flapped pockets.
My more important question is: are those just your general opinions for what you prefer, or is it your (or a widely held) opinion that hacking pockets don't look good with thin lapels or a black suit?
...
Yep, it's called a ticket pocket. I agree w/ what LanceW wrote about those and the other things -- except that I wouldn't worry about matching the stripes. Sometimes it's good and sometimes it has disadvantages, or so tailors say. You can trust the guys at Chan to match what needs to be matched.

Thin lapels are trendy. You may like them now, but you probably won't in a year or a few years. I wouldn't go w/ a trendy suit unless I had money to burn. And even then, I'd spend way less on a trendy suit. You could get something from H&M to scratch that itch, if you want. The custom suit should be for something classic that you'll enjoy for a long time, and/or something you've wanted for a while that you can't find rtw. Thin lapels are everywhere nowadays in rtw.

 

[pvrhye]

I would never do thin lapels with a ticket pocket. One says less is more, one says more is more.

 

[Maccimus]

Ticket pocket is too casual to me. Perfect for SC but not for suit.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by jaitaras

Hi SF,

I feel like it's time for my first bespoke suit.

I've been a lurker at this site for a long time, but decided I'd finally make an account to ask a few questions (i know, selfish since I'm asking for help without ever contributing; I promise to start!)

I'm probably going to go with some Chan tailor I've read a lot about over the past few weeks, and have actually just scheduled a fitting appointment on his/her next tour.

I've been noticing things on people suits the past few years, and have thought about a lot of my favorite features, here is kind of what I'm going for:

For the jacket I am thinking:

Single breasted, 3 button pin-striped, notched lapel
full canvas
light-to-non padded shoulder
medium/medium-high gorge
dual vents
tight and high arm holes
4 working sleeve buttons (kinda wide-spread)
flapped hacking pockets (these are the ones at an angle right?) 2 on the right side one on the left
thinish lapels
lapel buttonhole
lower left cell phone pocket
one regular inside pocket
laser pointer pocket, upper inner left side

And for the pants, I want to get two pairs

button fly
no rear pockets
one no pleats + button tabs
one double pleats + belt loops


Anyhow, my four questions are,
"am I going overboard with my specifications?"
"does this sound like a stupid idea for a suit?"
"are there any other things I should be considering prior to going in?"
and, "how do you go about picking the best fabric for your suit usually?" (for example, would it be a bad idea to just have the tailor help me pick a fabric based on my above requirements?)


If it means anything, I currently own 3 suits, but they all fit poorly, partly because I am a skinny guy with wide shoulders and a thin waist, and partly because they were all cheap off the rack suits

I'll be starting a new job soon (getting out of the military) where I'll be required to wear a suit once or twice a week.
I decided my first bespoke suit will be a black with pinstripes, as it seems the most versatile--what do you think about that?
If this turns out anywhere as nice as I hope it does, I plan on getting a second one in grey with a few changes.

Thanks for any input!

-Jai

I would think about:

Traight not hacking pockets - may be too casual for business
Lapels not to be unduly narrow - be advised by Chan. You dopn't want a style which will rapidly date.
An additional ticket pocket at inside right of coat. Agree only one breast pocket.

Some will coinsider men's trousers to be 'odd' with no back pockets but your choice really. If you do change and have them - get two, button and hole.

I like your choice of differing trousers.

Otherwise you have certainly not over specified and WW Chan will make you a good suit.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by jaitaras

I can't stand back pockets, they just look wrong to me....

You're weird.