Going bespoke the first time

[an6]

Hi guys.

I want to go bespoke for the first time. I did MTM but it was not very satisfying.

I like the Italian tailoring style.

I am kind of athletic built (wide chest and shoulders), that's why I thought a sports jacket with a soft Neapolitanian would be a nice choice for me.

what do you think? I was reading about. some tailors here in the forum

Solito, Dalcuore, I Sarti Italiana, Yuki Milano Eduardo di Simone etc.

I can tavel a couple of times to Italy, that's no problem.

 

[dieworkwear]

No expeirence with Yuki or Eduardo di Simone. I've used Solito and I Sarti. I've also seen Dalcuore's work. All three do nice work.

Do you have specific questions?

 

[an6]

Hi thank you.

Yes my question are.

My physique is wide shoulders/chest. My waist is 1 or 2 dress sizes smaller than my chest. RTW and even MTM never worked well.

I want a sports jacket which doesn't pronounce my shoulders and chest. That's why I tough about spala camici (I hope I spelled correctly). Soft shoulders, soft chest, no tapering.

And the jacket should "Taper down" to my waist

 

[dieworkwear]

Hi thank you.

Yes my question are.

My physique is wide shoulders/chest. My waist is 1 or 2 dress sizes smaller than my chest. RTW and even MTM never worked well.

I want a sports jacket which doesn't pronounce my shoulders and chest. That's why I tough about spala camici (I hope I spelled correctly). Soft shoulders, soft chest, no tapering.

And the jacket should "Taper down" to my waist

One of the challenges of bespoke is that you often don't know how the house style will look on you until you try it. I often compare it to going to a restaurant. You can read reviews, but ultimately, you have to eat there to figure out if you like it.

I've only seen Dalcuore in person. The work seemed nice. I can't speak to it since I don't own it.

As you know, Solito is run by two people, Luigi and his father, Gennaro. Both are cutters. I think the work is very clean -- slim, but still very classic. They do one of the softest shoulders in Naples. There's very little padding anywhere in the coat.

Gennaro generally cuts things a little fuller. You can see this style on him. Notice how the shoulders are slightly extended and there's a bit of fullness around the chest.

His son, Luigi, tends to cut things a bit trimmer. Like this

Luigi was reluctant to extend the shoulders on my coats, despite my request. In the end, I got a mappina construction as a compromise between what I wanted and what Luigi wanted. I wanted a drape-y, fuller coat. But ended more with something like what you see above. I think the Neapolitan details are all there: extended front dart, slightly open quarters, very soft shoulders, and a very straight lapel. The silhouette is slim but still classic. Of all the bespoke companies I've used, their lapels have the most expressive "roll." They really put a lot of shape into that roll and it's my favorite detail in the coat.

Much of what I Sarti makes is very slim. High gorge, clean chest, trim jackets, etc. There's a member here named UrbanComposition who lives in the United States. He has been bringing them over to the US and has gotten them to develop a fuller cut for some of the more conservative US customers. I bought a cotton suit from them and really enjoy the more conservative cut.

This cut has a slightly extended shoulder, fuller chest, and just a generally roomier feel. It's somewhere between my Steed (London) and Solito (Naples) in terms of structure -- not as structured as Steed, but not as soft as Solito. Salvo, the person behind I Sarti, is very eager to please and very flexible in terms of house style.

I like my Solito more in terms of the lapel roll, but my Sarti more in terms of overall cut. That said, my Solito jacket makes me feel "younger." My Sarti jacket is more comfortable and makes me feel more confident. It feels like a more classic, conservative cut and I think the style flatters me more.

Both do excellent work. If you favor a trimmer, younger cut, and that Neapolitan style, you might like Solito. Lots of good tailoring houses in that area, as well. If you want something a little more structured than Neapolitan tailoring, then you might prefer I Sarti's work.

 

[an6]

Hi

thank you mate.

that was the answer I needed.

thx