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Gitman Brothers Vintage

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by ToruOkada, Apr 13, 2009.

  1. HAL 9000

    HAL 9000 Senior member

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    So for Gitman... as the sizes get bigger, the fit gets more horrendous? How about the XS then?
     
  2. tonio028

    tonio028 Senior member

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    I don't know about horrendous, but it's been rehashed a million times over, not all shirts will fit people the same especially among the various sizes. Just like any other line/designer, some will fit better or not so hot from individual to individual. I am a small and haven't tried a medium or large (would have no reason to) but I imagine the fit would look tent like, b/c that's not my size so not surprising.

    Best thing is to try two different sizes and compare them and decide if the cut is to your liking or move on. You can always check and compare measurements with items you already own.
     
  3. Froosh

    Froosh Senior member

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    I find that the Gitman cut is better for those without much of a drop from chest to waist and narrow to average shoulders. Like those above, I have to size up to L in GBV for a proper shoulder fit but the body just ends up being way too billowy.
     
  4. althanis

    althanis Senior member

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    I don't get the hate for the basics - I think it makes a lot of sense to spend $100 to get good quality staples that you can wear lots of times hopefully over a couple years, if not more.

    On the other hand, how many times can you really wear a hideous llama or pinup shirt without people thinking you only have 1 or 2 shirts? So then why spend $150 on it? If you want a crazy, really out there print that you can wear a couple times before it becomes last season's shirt, then it makes more sense to me to get something that costs less.
     
  5. slide13

    slide13 Senior member

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    ^ I agree. I think the other argument is it's easy to find passable quality staples for a lot less, but try finding a $20 llama shirt at Uniqlo and you're going to have a hard time. But I like good quality basics...that is what I like to wear most and so spending a little money for a really nice solid color oxford makes perfect sense to me. I don't buy cheap shirts anymore as they just never keep me happy long term so it ends up being wasted money. Spending a little extra for some nice solid Gitman oxfords has been well worth it to me (though admittedly I've gotten most of them for $80 or less....but I've payed full price for a few)
     
  6. UltraMagnetical

    UltraMagnetical Senior member

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    That's not possible, you can close the pleat but not remove it completely
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
  7. amathew

    amathew Senior member

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    Question =

    How would you compare GBV shirts to Wolf vs Goats shirts in terms of price, quality, etc.?
     
  8. Dbear

    Dbear Senior member

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    give the edge to GBV in quality.

    completely different fits tho.
     
  9. HAL 9000

    HAL 9000 Senior member

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    Not sure on the quality, but I believe WvG is slimmer and shorter (if thats what you're looking for) since they're darted.
     
  10. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior member

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    It depends I think. I got 3 shirts in XS from GBV and the two oxford shirts fit very well, but the japanese cottoned from MyHabit is too small. The shirt feels like a XS, the arms are shorter, the chest is slimmer and it's shorter.
     
  11. irbe

    irbe Senior member

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    Good to know. Was always curious on how WvG / Epaulet / GBV compare in quality.
     
  12. ambivalence

    ambivalence Senior member

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    WVG sizing is more consistent compared to GBV, i will say the WVG fabric is kinda nicer compare to GBV... and wvg uses MOP button and they have a very cool care tag :D
     
  13. amathew

    amathew Senior member

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    + Frank and Eileen shirts
     
  14. Dbear

    Dbear Senior member

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    WvG, if you desire a very slim and cropped cut, like interesting fabrics and MOP buttons. That is, if you want to shell out the initial cash to become a member, where you are basically locked in to buy a few shirts with a discount. The discount really just brings the shirt to the normal price. I can't imagine anyone buying it at full retail and that's sort of the point. The construction of the actual shirt isn't as good as GBV.

    As for GBV, GB has been around forever, but the vintage line is fairly new. They basically took the shirt and refined the cut to be more modern (slim), but they still retained the box pleat for movement, but it causes the back to be billow, which is undesirable. So they went only 1/2 way on the slimness. Also, they retained the white or chalk buttons because, as they put it, "they're cheap!" and clearly they have a lot of them. The fabrics are really top notch. It's really the shining star of the line. They have the ability to source interesting and nice fabrics. It's the vintage part of it. They will go into their archives and pick a year and look at all the fabrics and use that as a springboard for each season. Although other companies are catching up and are able to source similar fabrics nowadays.

    I've owned several WvG shirts and 10+ GBV shirts. Sold a lot of them over time, kept a few of my favorites. Just my opinion on these brands, no dog in the race, as I am very doubtful I will buy any shirts from either brand ever again.
     
  15. amathew

    amathew Senior member

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    WvG is having a sale (40% off) right now. I emailed Mauro and he said the sale would go on for a couple more weeks, and they also have new chinos and shorts coming in next week.

    40% code is "summerfun"


    Just fyi...I also can't imagine paying full retail for their shirts. They are good, but I don't spend ~$170 for shirts.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
  16. 7_rocket

    7_rocket Senior member

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    My point is for the amount of money you're spending on a shirt, it better fit close to perfect. This is SF isn't it? Box pleat is an eye sore. I haven't tried the other brands such as wvg, BOO or epaulet.

    To each his own.
     
  17. 7_rocket

    7_rocket Senior member

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    Why is that?
     
  18. HAL 9000

    HAL 9000 Senior member

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    I'm curious. Why do a lot of people hate the box pleat? Does it cause it to be too poofy at the back or something?

    Also is this only a problem for the GBV when they're tucked? Or do they still have the poofy/billowing effect when worn untucked?
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012
  19. Dbear

    Dbear Senior member

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    The point of the box pleat, as described by GB was to allow greater range of movement. This was a design of Gitman Bros like several decades ago. Their target audience was factory and blue collar workers, not fashion or modern or anything like that.

    Yes, it makes it more poofy, less poofy if you tuck it in, but more still poofy than a shirt that doesn't have the pleat. The vintage line slimmed everything down, but the pleat was retained, as it's one of their "signatures".
     
  20. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

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    Why would I care if people think I only have one or two shirts because I might wear a llama shirt once a week or so? Newsflash!: No one gives a shit about the stuff you wear and the intervals in which you wear them. Everyone wears the same clothes over and over, so they don't really give a shit. The "last season" comment is dumb, and I'm sure you can figure out why I'm saying that.

    Here is the pitfall of Gitman basics: they're not that great. They're not made of carbon fiber. They don't breathe better than other oxfords. There is not a major difference in construction to put it above others for the price ($147 retail, $100 on sale white oxford). The fit isn't anything amazing. What does it have going for it? It has the name Gitman Vintage, which has been hyped all over heritage/j. crew prep/hip lumberjack blogs and shit for the past few years.

    My argument is that you're deluding yourself into thinking that Gitman is oh so much better than all other shirt makers when really they aren't. Seriously, you can buy 5 basic oxfords or stripes or whatever at Uniqlo for the price of 1 Gitman if you're wearing this shit for work. Uniqlo isn't going to magically disintegrate in your hands or in the washer or even over the course of a year. If you haven't tried Uniqlo basics, I would suggest you head over to the thread and check them out. The Uniqlo oxfords aren't just "passable"; it's probably the best thing on the market right now for basics.

    For the record, I own a bunch of Gitman prints, and have owned a lot of Gitman basics in the past as well as WvG, Band of Outsiders, Thom Browne, Epaulet, etc. Sold them all cause it wasn't worth the money, now it's Uniqlo for oxfords.
     

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